Pristine CTD. Extra cab, short bed, 2wd, SLT. Factory tow/haul package, leather heated seats, heavy insulation package. Rebuilt HX 35/40, Dap injectors, full gauges, PacBrake, Dynamic Transmission vb/servos/accumulator/strut/band/triple disc. Soft tranny lines, 40k trans cooler, lift pump, gooseneck hitch (never used), class 5 tow hitch, tonneau cover, air bags, re- geared to 3.73’s, 3rd Gen brakes with 17" rims Rust free CA truck located in Chico CA, 100 miles north of Sacto. I built this to
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Price: 16000
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Location: Chico CA 95973
(Torque till you see stars) I've read ALL the related threads and I've tried everything I can think of to get 3 fuel lines to seal at the connector tube joint. Connector tubes got new o-rings lubed with engine oil and pressed in by hand until "click" indicating fully seated past o-ring. Inspected the compression ends of the fuel lines and connector tubes and no signs of damage or over tightening. I lightly polished the fuel line ends with scotchbrite pad. Hand tightened all lines to ensure proper alignment and then bleed the system of air. After bleeding torqued to 28 ft/lb and have small weeping leak at 1, 3 & 4 (go figure, all the connections used for bleeding air from system). Since then I've, loosened the nuts and fuel line clamps, hand tightened and re-torqued & increased torqued to 30 ft lbs then 33 ft/lbs twice and nothing has stopped the weeping leaks. Is there anything else to do at this point before I just start cranking on them? I'm fairly certain (99.99%) the o-rings aren't damaged which only leaves the compression joint as the source of the leak. I let it set for 36 hours to see if there was going to be a hard starting issue and it fired right up. I hate to just start reefing on them because I know better but at this point the only other option is new fuel lines and connector tubes with o-rings. Sorry for the long post but want you to know I've tried all routine suggestions.