I finally (been busy lately) got around to completing the installation the other day of my Fuel Boss mechanical fuel pump on my truck.I bypassed the stock lift pump all together. You can still hear the stock lift pump cycle when you first start/bump the key on the truck. I know sooner or later it is going to stop working and trip the check engine light. My question is..if I pulled the fuse for the lift pump will that make the check engine light come on? Or if I unplug the wiring harness to the stock lift pump will that make the check engine light come on? I want to disable the stock lift pump some way since I am no longer using it but I don't want the check engine light to come on. I really don't want to stare at that orange light.Thanks for the tips and help.

I'd never run 1/2" line into the cab even for a gauge. Maybe tiny 1/8" line on a needle valve when it would most likely only drip if it broke open 1/2" would be like a flood. I'd highly reconsider that...

I'd never run 1/2" line into the cab even for a gauge. Maybe tiny 1/8" line on a needle valve when it would most likely only drip if it broke open 1/2" would be like a flood. I'd highly reconsider that...

A crap, i forgot to mention that my 1/8 line runs through 1/2 line, the 1/2" is just a drain tube in case there is a leak at the gauge.

Just wanted to do a quick update.  I got back from my 2000 mile road trip the other day.  Fuel Boss performed flawlessly.  16 pounds of fuel pressure at idle and it runs 19-20 going down the road depending on what rpm you are running.  By the way I unplugged the lead to the stock lift pump before I left and it never tripped the CEL. 

 

I did have two problems with the truck on the trip, not related to the Fuel Boss, though.  Before I left the fuel gauge had a small leak and I determined the nut wasn't tight enough.  I tightened it and the leak went away.  There were no leaks from the fuel gauge MOST of the trip.  I was about 350-400 miles from home (on the return leg) and the gauge started making a wierd buzzing noise.  I figured maybe it was just the gauge pod rattling against the a-pillar. 

 

Low and behold I was wrong and fuel started leaking from the gauge in several places.  I might have smoked my gauge.  I have a needle valve under the hood, just like everyone seems to run.  I followed Michael's you tube video about having it only slightly cracked open.  Problem was, when it was only "slightly cracked open" it would take almost 30 seconds for the fuel pressure gauge to get from 0 up to 16 pounds, whether the truck was warm or cold.  I cracked it open slightly more and the gauge would rise from 0-16 pounds in about 9 to 10 seconds.  I figured that was acceptable.  Maybe I had it open too far and smoked my gauge, not sure.

 

The other problem I have was also fuel related.  The stock steel return line that goes from the back of the VP44 to the tank decided to start leaking. I'll probably post a new thread about that.  Thanks.

Edited December 16, 201311 yr by 24Vdodge

If you are still using the isspro gauge like your sig says, I am surprised the gauge gave up. Especially since you were using the needle valve, that thing should have lasted you years. I wonder if you may have cracked something when you retightened it?

I might have to agree on the gauge going bad. I have had mine on for about 2 years and have it adjusted to read full pressure in about 1 to 2 seconds. It still reads good today, 

 I will be interested in why or where your return is leaking. Look forward to your new thread on the subject.