got up to  almost  30 this morning,  so  I thought it  would start  easy for me...

ran the  pre heat,   bumped the starter to  start the  lift pump,  then  ran the  pre heat again.

 

It  did  fire  a little,   but  then  nothing.    Rob  said   I  didn't have any   vapor  during  the  crank.

 

We  pulled it  about  a half mile  trying to start,  and  it did  run momentarily.    Then finally  nothing.

Just happened to have   my  reader on board,  and   I  got    a  p1693    I knew that was  a companion deal,    and   digging a little deeper on my  code reader  it   had  a   timing issue  in the  vp.

 

about this time  I   noticed my  fuel  lift pump no longer   runs  during  crank and or after bump.   

 

Dang it,   I'm getting tired of   throwing  money at this thing..     A new  Vp  last fall,  and  two new lift pumps  since.

 

 

 

 

 

Is your lift pump still run off of the ECM? Or did you install the relay to run straight from the battery?

 

If there is a 1693 code, there has to be another code in there. Cant just have the 1693, its impossible.

Edited January 7, 201411 yr by Ilikeoldfords

I  had  a  frrp  airdog  on the  truck about a month  before the first  vp  flamed out.   (last august).      I   kept the   airdog  on  when  installed the new  vp  from  DAP   at that time.     I had    about 15  lbs   pressure at that time.      

 

I didn't like  the   sound  the  airdog  was making  last month,  so  I put in a  Fass  02.       been  running     17 psi.

 

Both times  I've  run the pump off the  ecm,    

 

I  know that  1693  code is a companion,  that's  why  I  dug deeper  and found the  timing issue  in the injection pump.    

Could be because of lack of fuel pressure or gelled fuel plugging the pump up.

that's  what  I am hoping for....  I got it  plugged in  for  both  battery and  block heater....  I'll    get my   hot air gun and   warm up  both the  suction screen  and  the  final filter..

should know  in an hour!

 

 

side note,  I went out and  tried  bumping the starter,  and  fuel pump did run..    and  engine did  start   *eventually* .     It  acted  like  it  was  out of  fuel...  (it  probably was  since  pump wasn't running from earlier )...    but  it  did  fire up....  ran  for   5 seconds,  then  died.

I was throwing 0216 when i was gelling. Waited till it got above freezing and havnt had a code since

ok,   up and running!

Not sure  what  'cured' it... but this is what I did:

 

put the  battery charger on  for  a couple of  hours,  and  plugged in the  block heater.     ambient  temp is  30  today.

 

Then  I  got my  new Christmas present out!  Dewalt  hot air gun,  and   toasted the  suction  filter screen ahead of my new Fass 02.

 

Then  when  it was   too warm to handle,   (its a metal housing  g-2  type  filter, but with a screen)   I  directed the heat on the  final filter...

 

One of 2  things  may have kept me  from starting this morning,     a  waxed over  suction screen,  or     after cycling the  grids  2 times,   I didn't have enough  battery  to  run the  ecm  (while  grids were still cycling after  start-up)   my  voltmeter on  dash  said  I was  way low  during that  time....  which  shut down the  fuel pump.  

 

Runs  great now.   I might have to rethink  that  darn  screen though...     OH,  ALMOST FORGOT,    after I got it running,   my  abs motor was racing away  even after shutting  down the  engine....  I just  unhooked the motor  for now..  geeeezzzz

Ahhh...

 

Q: Did you have the battery charger hooked up while trying to start the truck?

well,  sure!    

Here's an idea;;;;;;in colder climates, has anyone ever considered using the regular plumbing heat tape, wrapping the tank and continue it down the fuel lines and wrapping the filter housings too??

 

Have it so when you plug in the block heater the heat tape is fired up.

 

Would this help you guys?

Edited January 8, 201411 yr by JAG1

I was actually thinking about doing this. I was gonna wrap my sump, lines, filters and Airdog.

Ahhh...

 

Q: Did you have the battery charger hooked up while trying to start the truck?

 

 

well,  sure!    

 

This might of been the reason for the ABS module cooking. The typical household battery charger might of had way too much AC noise and caused damage while cranking on the truck as the charger ran to it far limits of output. It's always been suggested to unhook the charger before starting.

 No,  no  relay for  the  Fass.   just  run off the  ecm...   in a pinch,   could I  just  wire up  a dedicated  circuit  (fused of  course)    I'd  run   a   wire  from  positive 12v batt,  to the  pump,  then  run the common  back through to  a  switch  inside cab  and  then  ground.

 

I have  several  tractors  that have  a   switch  in the cab for running   the lift pump.... so it's  'SOP'    for  most in my family to  flip the  pump on.

 

But,   does the  ecm need to be hooked up to  either a relay,  or  the pump itself  in order to  'talk'??

 

Just trying to  save a little  $$   from not having to  buy a relay....

Edited January 8, 201411 yr by rancherman

 No,  no  relay for  the  Fass.   just  run off the  ecm...   in a pinch,   could I  just  wire up  a dedicated  circuit  (fused of  course)    I'd  run   a   wire  from  positive 12v batt,  to the  pump,  then  run the common  back through to  a  switch  inside cab  and  then  ground.

 

I have  several  tractors  that have  a   switch  in the cab for running   the lift pump.... so it's  'SOP'    for  most in my family to  flip the  pump on.

 

But,   does the  ecm need to be hooked up to  either a relay,  or  the pump itself  in order to  'talk'??

 

Just trying to  save a little  $$   from not having to  buy a relay....

 

Most aftermarket lift pump systems come with a relay set up. Instead of the ECM actually turning the lift pump on and off, it just switches the relay on and off. The lift pump gets power straight from the battery once the ECM switches that relay on. Takes the load of the lift pump off of the ECM, but still allows the ECM to control the lift pump.

You can get a 30Amp relay from NAPA for about $5. That would be more than enough to run your lp.

Be careful about fuse size.... I could be wrong but, I read somewhere too big of a fuse won't protect the ECM.

 

My Raptor came with a big fuse so I reduced it down one size

You can get a 30Amp relay from NAPA for about $5. That would be more than enough to run your lp.

 

  Why is my AirDog 150 powered off a 15A fuse? 30A heck I could run two pumps on that...

Just because the relay is rated for 30 Amps doesn't mean you are putting 30 Amps to the load. You could use a 70Amp fuel solenoid relay off of a 12v truck and it would work fine. The 30A relay I mean are the standard cheap 12 volt relays that can be used most anywhere.

wow,  didn't realize they were that  economical.      It  probably needs to be done  and  take some load off the ecm.

 

mike,  you are  right,   the  30 amp  is  way plenty..  but   the  actual  load  on it  would be  far less..  and   I'd put in a  15 or less  amp fuse  in the  LOAD side.    might  go a tad higher  on the supply side, right  at the  relay itself.  (just in case  the relay  goes berserk/shorts out)

I would go tad lower personally so less damage is done to the relay, lift pump motor or wiring. Fuses are cheap but pumps and re-wiring a truck or fuel system could get a bit expensive. Best way to find out is measure the amperage used on the pump (or any circuit) and step up to the next fuse that clears the requirement. You can also look at wire gauge size too being that you can only get some many amps out of certain gauge wire then the smoke starts to happen.

 

The rating for a relay has nothing to do with the load itself or the coil side. It is the rating that the contacts are rated for. That is why I said if you wanted to you could use one rated for 100 amps if you really wanted to. The load side should be fused BEFORE the realay should be sized to what the load is rated for.

Edited January 9, 201411 yr by MnTom