For anyone interested, I've got the 04.5 listed in my signature. I've been running 2 stroke oil in her now for almost 1.5 years and 30,000+ miles. No problems at all. No gummed up injectors, no carboned up injectors, no frozen fuel in cold weather and none of the other crazy fears thrown out there about using this stuff in your fuel.

What I have seen is a smoother idle and high speed operation. I've also seen about a .5-1 mpg increase in fuel mileage since I starting using the 2 stroke. I've always had a smooth and quiet 3rd generation truck also!! But the oil makes it even more quiet!!!

I just got back from a week long hunting trip to North Dakota. We obviously took my truck because it has 4 doors and can haul a trailer rather economically!!! Anyhow, 4 guys in my truck, 2 dogs in crates in the back along with anything assorted equipment we could fit back there. In back of that we towed a 5x8 very stought single axle open top trailer that was loaded to the gills with gear. If I had to guess, I'd bet our GVW would've been about 12,000lbs. A couple of my hunting buds are pushing 3 spins on the scale!!! All that said, the fuel mileage for our trip was as follows: tank 1....19.1mpg, tank 2....18.7mpg, tank 3....16.6mpg, tank 4....18.9mpg. I still am running tank 5 now, as we filled up only about 100 miles from home. Until I hitched my work trailer up to her, she was reading 20.3mpg on the overhead, which is quite accurate. All these tanks had 2 stroke oil added to them. The highway speeds were kept at about 70mph and the hunting area speeds averaged 40-60mph on the better gravel roads!!!!!

All that said, I USE my truck for what it was designed for. I tow most everyday of the week. In fact, my truck had my work trailer behind her the day after I drove her off the lot!!! I don't know where this gummed up/carboned up injectors crap comes from........at least for me. Probably from folks that take there truck to the train station and take the train to work!!!! :rolleyes Anyway, that's my story. :thumbsup

I ran Leen Diesel for about 6 months several years ago and never saw any differance in milage or power so I quit using it and ran with no addititves for a long time. When I heard about 2 cycle hear and elswhere I decided to try it. Although I still saw no milage gains, my truck did run quieter which I figured was a good thing. Still do.I have seen alot of differant studies with alot of technical info that is frankly over my head. There are just to many ways to skin a cat. So what I have done is to look at the info and personal experiences of alot folks here and elswhere and made the decision to use 2 cylcle. I can live with that. It is just like anything else I have done to my truck, I listen,ask quetions, look at products and then decide what is best for me. I have never used either one of the products the tested and if those and all of the others on the market were chewing up and spitting out engines, I dont think the shelves would be full of them. It is your truck do whatever makes you comfotable, after all it is yours.

It doesn't call in to question the 2cyl. oil. It just goes on to say that Cetane boosters are a good thing.

Boy if I still had a copy of the ASTM labs book on the Cetane rating of diesel it would show you a different story too... Like the one phrase that came from ASTM labs...

Right out the ASTM labs books...

The ASTM Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils (D-975) states, "The cetane number requirements depend on engine design, size, nature of speed and load variations, and on starting and atmospheric conditions. Increase in cetane number over values actually required does not materially improve engine performance. Accordingly, the cetane number specified should be as low as possible to insure maximum fuel availability.

I just filled up today before I got home and came here to the "site"!!! Anyhow, 580 miles on the tank of fuel and filled up with 31.xxxgallons. Mileage for the tank was 18.6mpg with about 50% towing. That tank was also some % of bio + my 16oz. of 2 stroke oil.I believe the higher cetane is the norm in Europe. Upwards of 50. But most diesels there are small and rev much higher than our Cummins, or even the Duramax and the Furd. In order to get complete combustion in those high revving engines and maintain emissions, they have to run diesel with higher cetane. Our larger diesels here don't rev as high and thus don't need the "quick" burn of the higher cetane fuel...................only caveat being in the winter cold. We already hashed that out, so I won't go back there.Just sticking my in here......again!!!

I believe the higher cetane is the norm in Europe. Upwards of 50. But most diesels there are small and rev much higher than our Cummins, or even the Duramax and the Furd. In order to get complete combustion in those high revving engines and maintain emissions, they have to run diesel with higher cetane. Our larger diesels here don't rev as high and thus don't need the "quick" burn of the higher cetane fuel...................only caveat being in the winter cold. We already hashed that out, so I won't go back there.

Correct... Typically I only see 1,500 to 1,600 RPMs normal driving. I need a good slow strong burning fuel the deleivers torque. I rarely see above 2K on the tach.

I'm not stirring, just stating what the artical said.

George, you turned green and yellow. Mine's not that big and it just mows grass.

Correct... Typically I only see 1,500 to 1,600 RPMs normal driving. I need a good slow strong burning fuel the deleivers torque. I rarely see above 2K on the tach.

I hear that Mike!!! When I'm towing, I run Mighty Whitey up to about 2200-2300rpm before shifting............no lugging that way..........and she pulls away much easier. My NV5600 seems to shift smoother with higher rpms also.

That be my first full restoration. Took her down to the bare casings except rear end. Took 6 yrs, and 6k, not counting my time. I have 2 more Ag Deeres of similar vintage and a lawn tractor. Plus the Case pulling tractor which will hopefully get to go to the first pull of the year.

This is what I have been buying lately. I actually got 1 mpg better withe bio! [ATTACH]4001[/ATTACH] --- I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?13atiw 2003 Ram with gauges and a Smarty! Not much more. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So should I stop using PS and switch to 2-stroke? What ratio do you suggest? I have a 2002 VW diesel for my DD and use the PS in it also.

As long as it does not have a cat. on the exhaust I would run it. Although I ran my 05 with the cat. still on it and didnt hurt anything. As far as the VW do somemore checking with the guys and see, I dont know. I do know I would pour the PS in the drain pan the next time you change your oil that stuff is crap.

What's your guys thoughts on filter used motor oil and adding like a 20 or 30% blend to your diesel fuel. I've heard some good things and some guys even running up to a 50% blend, but I haven't had time to reasearch it to much yet.

I wouldn't even consider it in a CR, too many contaminates and engine oil is designed not to burn so you won't get full combustion at low speeds/temps.

I wouldn't even consider it in a CR, too many contaminates and engine oil is designed not to burn so you won't get full combustion at low speeds/temps.

Agreed! WEO/WMO is not a good idea for Common Rail or VP44 injection pumps because of the tight tolerances within the fuel system. Even when Cummins allowed WEO/WMO to be used in the early years it was only allowed up to 5% by volume or 1.5 Gallons to 35 Gallon tank. So these guys that are burning WEO/WMO are risking ruining a very expensive fuel system trying to save a few pennies.

Agreed! WEO/WMO is not a good idea for Common Rail or VP44 injection pumps because of the tight tolerances within the fuel system. Even when Cummins allowed WEO/WMO to be used in the early years it was only allowed up to 5% by volume or 1.5 Gallons to 35 Gallon tank. So these guys that are burning WEO/WMO are risking ruining a very expensive fuel system trying to save a few pennies.

Besides, 2 stroke oil is formulated and designed to burn............and burn cleanly without deposits. JFYI, I was in a bass fishing tournament yesterday/Sunday. I did not win. But I worked Saturday, and pulled the boat out, got her organized, and ran her a bit with the "bunny ear" hose attachment. She started right up!!!:hyper: Anyhow, after I ran her for about 10 minutes, I shut her down and cleaned out the boat for a bit. After about 15-20 minutes of cleaning; I pulled the cowl off the engine and pulled the plugs............Just a little bit wet with oil, but no fouling or carbon build up at all. And my boat doesn't see a whole lot of high speed operation..........mainly just to go across 100-300 acre lakes. So I say again...............In a properly running 2 stroke engine there will be no "deposits"!!! The plug may be wet, but it shouldn't be carboned up.

Besides, 2 stroke oil is formulated and designed to burn............and burn cleanly without deposits. JFYI, I was in a bass fishing tournament yesterday/Sunday. I did not win. But I worked Saturday, and pulled the boat out, got her organized, and ran her a bit with the "bunny ear" hose attachment. She started right up!!!:hyper: Anyhow, after I ran her for about 10 minutes, I shut her down and cleaned out the boat for a bit. After about 15-20 minutes of cleaning; I pulled the cowl off the engine and pulled the plugs............Just a little bit wet with oil, but no fouling or carbon build up at all. And my boat doesn't see a whole lot of high speed operation..........mainly just to go across 100-300 acre lakes. So I say again...............In a properly running 2 stroke engine there will be no "deposits"!!! The plug may be wet, but it shouldn't be carboned up.

I've got a 17 year old Chainsaw (Sthl 046 Magnum) still got the factory orignal spark plug yet. I've only pulled it once and cleaned it in 17 years the gap is still good too. Dorkweed is right 2 cycle oil is designed to burn and doesn't contain things like ash, friction modifers, anti-scorching compounds, etc. Which are now being found in todays oils and ATF. These things are harsh on the fuel system and will degrade the performance of the truck in a semi-permanent manner. (Ash build up on pistons and injectors).

I've got a 17 year old Chainsaw (Sthl 046 Magnum) still got the factory orignal spark plug yet. I've only pulled it once and cleaned it in 17 years the gap is still good too. Dorkweed is right 2 cycle oil is designed to burn and doesn't contain things like ash, friction modifers, anti-scorching compounds, etc. Which are now being found in todays oils and ATF. These things are harsh on the fuel system and will degrade the performance of the truck in a semi-permanent manner. (Ash build up on pistons and injectors).

I think I may have you beat Michail.............my chainsaw is at least 30 years old!!!! Dad bought the McCullock ProMac610 in the late '70's-early '80's!!! With a sharp chain, she's dangerous!!!! I sharpen a lot also!!