Well the truck just hit 163K miles and I ran out of water this morning. I already knew before I popped the hood because of two things...lol

 

1. I slowly lost heat in the cab.

2. Truck started to overheat almost immediately after I lost all heat.

 

 

This happened to me about 2 weeks ago and I didn't think anything of it at first, but from the looks of it I can't find traces of any water leaks anywhere. So I guess I will throw the coolant pressure tester on the truck and see where I spring a leak. I am thinking water pump most likely due to the nature of the beast and the search button feature lol.

If it was the water pump then you should be able to lay under the front of the truck and look up at the water pump and you should see something coming out of the weep hole or you could just reach under it anf feel for some water. Does your truck put out any steam? Do you smell any anti-freeze after running it and getting it up to temp? You may even have a headgasket leaking, but rule out everything else before condeming the headgasket.

What he said^^^ . Also can you smell a sweet smell either inside or outside the vehicle? Does the inside of you windshield have a film on it? Is your carpet wet on the passengers side?

Like said above first check WP and then check all hosing, then the classic spot for ahead gasket leak and not show is look at the seem behind the alternator where the head and block meet, that is where they will seep first but it will burn off and leave only a green or residue line along the seem.

No steam or antifreeze smell when driving. It has to be small whatever it is. When I throw the pressure tester on it tonight I will find out where it is coming from. I'll keep you guys informed

If you got a cooling system pressure tester those are handy tool. Just let the truck sit and go cold and then pump up the cooling system to 15-16 PSI and leave it alone a for a bit. The leak will show itself because there is no heat to dry it up.

If you got a cooling system pressure tester those are handy tool. Just let the truck sit and go cold and then pump up the cooling system to 15-16 PSI and leave it alone a for a bit. The leak will show itself because there is no heat to dry it up.

 

 

Exactly what I planned on doing. Even if the truck settles below 140 degrees I could do it then. 15-16psi will always show leaks

Edited January 27, 201411 yr by Kotta390

Holy **** bad news!!!! I went home to look for leaks and couldn't find any in the traditional spots, so I started looking elsewhere. When I had the pressure gauge at 16psi it held there for over 5 minutes before it showed any signs of leakdown. Well I found where it was leaking and I think it has been leaking there for quite some time...

 

 

This is before I topped it off and had the pressure gauge on for about 10 minutes.

 

 

 

 

After I topped it off again with over a half of a gallon of antifreeze and drove home on a 15 minute drive, I popped the hood again and found this...

 

 

 

 

Now after trying to find the casting number of the block, I swear it has a 55 block, so I dont know how this block is cracked or what caused it??

way bummer!!! sorry to see this!!!

Ohhhhh, THAT'S NOT GOOD.......

how long have you had this truck? looking at the freez plugs looks like they were painted black, as if someone patched this and sold it. only for it to fail again.

how long have you had this truck? looking at the freez plugs looks like they were painted black, as if someone patched this and sold it. only for it to fail again.

 

 

I had it for a couple months. I don't understand I thought the 53 blocks did this?? I have a 55 block though...What do I do to fix this? 

The only way to fix it is to either replace the block or replace the complete engine. There is no real fix for the block. Maybe look for a wrecked truck to buy the engine out of?

Edited January 28, 201411 yr by MnTom

Quick check on Craigslist gives this ad: http://waco.craigslist.org/ptd/4239123923.html I know nothing of this place, but I know of one in the Denver area that would do you good, but the shipping would be high I would think.

Quick check on Craigslist gives this ad: http://waco.craigslist.org/ptd/4239123923.html I know nothing of this place, but I know of one in the Denver area that would do you good, but the shipping would be high I would think.

 

 

You have to be shitting me??

 

The block is trashed?? There is no way to weld this up somehow or any fix?? I cant believe this is it I literally do not have the money or time to fix this by replacing the engine....

Seems I've read about welding blocks before. But probably would have to pull it to get access. Why would it crack like that and not push the freeze plugs out?

Edited January 28, 201411 yr by joecool911

Once you remove the manifold, turbo, exhaust and the intake, it looks like it's pretty easy to get in there and weld. Surely the block can't be doomed over this!!

Ive seen some that have been welded and are still going strong. And then ive seen some that were welded and cracked again not to long after.

 

You could weld it to buy some time, but like others have said, need to replace the block or engine. If your going to weld it, drill the ends of the crack and preheat around the area, Use a HI nickel rod and let it cool down real slow!

53 Block?

Here is one I have been eyeing, same issue but he has a spare engine getting a sleave in #6.

http://www.bismanonline.com/1999_dodge_cummins_diesel_w_cracked_block

This guy must be sick, as it sounds he was unaware of the cracked blick when he bought it. Sad. When I bought mine, I would not have been savy enough to know either. I got lucky.