I've been looking for the MG oil and all I can find is the LE. Does it exist, does it make a difference? It's what's recommend for 24 valve cummins.

Edited February 18, 201411 yr by joecool911

Is'nt the MG a CI4 rated oil ? Depending on the year of your engine yes you could use it.

Though I'd opt for the latest rating , most ( the new 5W30 is not) all backward compatible.

The LE is for 2007 model year and newer trucks I believe. It is for trucks that have emissions control such as EGR. The MG is for non emission controlled trucks. You would want the MG for your 24v. Pretty much any CI-4 or CJ-4 motor oil will work for your truck.

Edited February 18, 201411 yr by Ilikeoldfords

Yes the MG is cl4+ rated and would be a better option then CJ4. Have you looked online? I would imagine you could source it through Amazon.

So, without doing a bunch of research myself, which specific oils meet the standard for pre 2007 trucks that are readily available?

Valvoline Premium Blue 15w40 and Premium blue synthetic 5w40, Shell Rotella T 5w40 synthetic, Chevron Delo 400mg, are all cl-4 plus oils that tested high according to the TDR oil analysis done by an engineer from Lubrizol.

High TBN, lots of calcium and phosporos and zinc.

I know I'm about to flame someone by mentioning that study. LOL

Edited February 19, 201411 yr by diesel4life

I am changing my bypass filter every 1,000 miles and adding a quart of fresh oil. Can I start adding the valvoline premium blue 15w40 that meets the specs for my age truck to the existing Delo 400LE oil in the engine? Not talking about adding synthetic to petroleum oil.

Edited February 20, 201411 yr by joecool911

You are not suppose to mix oils. A guy i work with said he went to a conference on oils and the major brands were there saying that depending on where the oil is from (gulf, east coast, west coast) that they will seperate from each other. I am going to start running delvac since i hate he way rotella makes it smell like there is a leak

Ok, no mixing then. Sounds like capitalism scam though. Lol.

I have been buying old formula (15-40W) Delo 400 from shop I deal with, the only way you can get it is 50 gal drum, but it is available from suppliers or directly from refinery which in my case is less than 20 miles away (have to have friends in high places). LOL

It does seem like the Delo MG is rather hard to get ahold of...must be they gear it more towards commercial/industrial applications.

So what harm has been done to my truck running the wrong oil? Is it a splitting hairs issue or have real consequences?

Unless you are buying junk oil which is hard to find, most major oils are pretty much the same. People just like to get too much into it. I know a guy that ran regular rotella with 10,000 mile oil change and fleetguard filter, at 450,000 miles he pulked the head and pan and everything looked brand new.

The argument is that the older CL4 specs have higher TBN, which is supposedly better for battling acids in the oil especially for longer oil change intervals. I have also seen the argument that the CL4 oils were needed to neutralize the higher sulfur fuel of the time period and that with ULSD it isn't as near a big deal. I'm no chemist so I don't hold a real strong opinion either way, but to your question running CJ oil in your truck is not going to have any real consequences, or we would be seeing engine failures on a regular basis. I believe the vast majority of people are running CJ4 and don't know the difference.

You are not suppose to mix oils. A guy i work with said he went to a conference on oils and the major brands were there saying that depending on where the oil is from (gulf, east coast, west coast) that they will seperate from each other. I am going to start running delvac since i hate he way rotella makes it smell like there is a leak

Sorry , this is false.

All oils with a SAE and API rating must be compatible

This is within the same rating CJ4 15W40;s or similar in auto oils SN 5W30 etc.

I found I can get some Delo 400MG from a distributor, Alexis Oil Co.

 

Their price is a crazy though, $82.30 for 5 gal, thats like $17 a gallon.

 

Sales guy left a voice mail twice, I should call him back and tell him I will pay $50 for a 5 gal bucket

 

I used to get MG from walmart , $10 per gallon, before they started making the LE stuff. I still have some of the old jugs in my garage

Edited February 21, 201411 yr by GSP7

CJ oils are made to be backwords compatible, so they meet CI specs. That being said CJ oils have a lower TBN, as fuel is the age determining factor on 2007+ engine, not breakdown from acidity. They also have lower ZDDP, but are supposed to make up for it with other additive packages.

 

On non-DPF engines I still think CI-4+ is a better oil, especially if you run your oil for more than 7,500 miles.

 

 

 

Valvoline Premium Blue 15w40 and Premium blue synthetic 5w40, Shell Rotella T 5w40 synthetic, Chevron Delo 400mg, are all cl-4 plus oils that tested high according to the TDR oil analysis done by an engineer from Lubrizol.
High TBN, lots of calcium and phosporos and zinc.
I know I'm about to flame someone by mentioning that study. LOL

 

None of those oils are CI-4+ anymore, they are all a CJ-4 oil. The only exception might be if you find some old stock on the shelf, which I highly doubt.

 

Delo still lists their CI-4 15w-40 on their website, but I don't think it's made anymore. It was made for a while in conjunction with LE for the marine market, but even the marine market needs CJ-4 for it's modern engines.

 

I do know that Amsoil AME is CI-4+ and I run it, there are a couple others but I don't recall them anymore.

 

 

I am changing my bypass filter every 1,000 miles and adding a quart of fresh oil. Can I start adding the valvoline premium blue 15w40 that meets the specs for my age truck to the existing Delo 400LE oil in the engine? Not talking about adding synthetic to petroleum oil.

 

Bypass every 1,000 miles? That seems very frequent.

So what is the bottom line for current oil recommendations for 24 valve engines? I'm as confused now as to start with.

Delo, delvac, valvoline blue, rotella. They will all work and you will never have problems

CL4+ was formulated with higher TBN after our engines were even produced, particularly for egr equipped engines . to combat the acidity due to the EGR and higher sulfur fuel prior to ULSD. Since the fuels have changed, is there really a need to stick with those additives? Being we don't even have EGR? The only real argument I see for a CL4 oil being advantageous over CJ4 is for higher sulfur fuel, when CJ oils are used they advise shortening the service intervals, but I am not aware where any 500ppm fuel is even available in the US anymore.;

BTW, all the most recent documents I can find on the oils I mentioned above have a TBN of 10-12, which is right in line with Amsoil AME

When you say CL so you mean CI? CL isn't a specification I have heard of.

The oil formulation change was primarily based on particulate filters, not fuel. If CI oil is used it can plug up the DPF, so a low ash oil had to be formulated. To get ash down some of the ZDDP had to be removed and replaced with a different additive package. Both CI and CJ are designed for up to 500ppm fuel.

CJ oils are fine, but I don't think they are as good as CI oils for non-DPF trucks, this includes deleted 6.7s. The high ZDDP is important for flat tappet motors, like the ISB. The substitute in CJ oil is adequate, and since CI oil not readily available then just run a diesel oil of your choice.

There are plenty of people with a lifetime supply of CI oil in their garage due to changes from CI to CJ.