All right, I ordered a new set of RV275 injectors and feed tube o-rings from DAP. They will be here tomorrow. I got all my old injectors pulled today. It was actually fairly easy, I had figured 5 and 6 were going to be a pain but they weren't. I can return my old injectors for a $100 refund but I was thinking about keeping them for a spare set.

 

I decided to go ahead and take one apart tonight, and noticed there were two washers inside the injector above the spring? I've never taken one apart before, but isn't there only supposed to be one washer? Do you think the second washer has something to do with pop pressure? Injectors wore out?

 

Also, just to make sure I have the install right,

Apply clean oil to injector and feed tube o-rings

Injector hold down clamp is 89 IN LBS = 7.5 FT LBS

HP injectors lines are torqued to 28 FT LBS which I read is just tighter then snug with hand ( I don't have a crows foot)

 

Does all this sound right so far?

 

Any extra tips for the install?

 

Thanks,

 

 

Sometimes you need to just let the line sit as is. You may have a small amount of fuel seeping that is not a leak and will clear up in a couple of days.

Quick question, I just cleaned all of my injectors and put them in and they all seem to leak a little out of nut on the head. But engine runs great and starts right up. And it doesn't leak when the engine is on its only a few minutes after I shut it off. And not a lot just makes it a bit wet, I wipe it off and it's fine and then after I run engine for few minutes and shut it off it seems to seep a little out again. Is this just from heat in head and fuel expands and comes out ? And once it all dries out behind the nut and before oring then it should be fine ?

Quick question, I just cleaned all of my injectors and put them in and they all seem to leak a little out of nut on the head. But engine runs great and starts right up. And it doesn't leak when the engine is on its only a few minutes after I shut it off. And not a lot just makes it a bit wet, I wipe it off and it's fine and then after I run engine for few minutes and shut it off it seems to seep a little out again. Is this just from heat in head and fuel expands and comes out ? And once it all dries out behind the nut and before oring then it should be fine ?

check your  torque again..

I've had  numerous  engines  with  multiple  injector  replacement/line removals   that  tend to get  'wear grooves'  in the sealing ball.    Sometimes,   they'll act just  as  you describe..  perfect until you shut off..      I  truly believe  when  things  heat up/cool down,   there is  movement  in there,  and  residual pressure  seeps out.

             Usually a  quick  'bump'  with the wrench  takes care of it.

check your  torque again..

I've had  numerous  engines  with  multiple  injector  replacement/line removals   that  tend to get  'wear grooves'  in the sealing ball.    Sometimes,   they'll act just  as  you describe..  perfect until you shut off..      I  truly believe  when  things  heat up/cool down,   there is  movement  in there,  and  residual pressure  seeps out.

             Usually a  quick  'bump'  with the wrench  takes care of it.

You're right. I took all lines out and they all had a scar ring around where it seats to tubes, I used 600 and800 grit to get them looking new again, maybe I screwed it up, I'll try snugging them up some more hope it does it. My lines were bad when I got this truck I had a hell of time to stop them from leaking before, but I don't understand how high pressure doesn't push fuel out when engine is running but when shut off it seeps out. I thought maybe its initial fuel behind the nut from bleeding the line and because of oring on the tube it just sits in the hole until I shut it off and heat from engine gets fuel hot ant pushes it out of threads.

When I do injectors I seat the injectors then loosen the hold down bolts on the injector then install the crossover tubes and torque them to spec and re-torque the hold down bolts. I've had a few leak as well not for very long.

well,   there is  a phenomena   of   the  very high pressure  'helping'  seat  the  ball...  and  upon   shut down,  the   lesser stuff  makes it out. 

 

I'm  still pretty sure  with   our   USED  lines,    a little  scarring  can  'hang up'    a  ball from  fully  making perfect contact..  and   it  takes  a few  cycles  to  get it  seated.      30 ft lbs   has   that  nut  sprung   somewhat,  and   as the ball  fully seats,  the  'spring' action  in the nut  should  take it up...

 

I'm thinking  when we  start up the engine cold,  EVERYTHING is  cold,   but  during  cool off,    the  lines, nuts, and  ball sockets  will cool down somewhat faster  (and  shrink)...  That's  my wild guess.

When I do injectors I seat the injectors then loosen the hold down bolts on the injector then install the crossover tubes and torque them to spec and re-torque the hold down bolts. I've had a few leak as well not for very long.

Interesting thought!

By torquing down the injector hold downs first do you think it could cause a crossover tube to leak where it seats against the injector? This would just cause the injection pump to pump high pressure fuel back to the tank

When I did mine after cleaning up lines, I torqued injectors down and left them be, then I put in tubes and then lines, they all stopped leaking in few days except one right behind intake. But it barely gets wet around nut so I'm going to wait and see. I think it's just left over fuel in that pocket that will dry out on its own. Just my guess. Unless it keeps leaking when I drive the truck then something isn't seating right. I'll see what happens. Been starting right up every morning.first it was all of the lines and now it's down to one, time will tell.

Injector lines get tighten first then the injector hold down get tighten. Also double check to see if debris is caught in the seat where the line meets the crossover tube.

Interesting thought!

By torquing down the injector hold downs first do you think it could cause a crossover tube to leak where it seats against the injector? This would just cause the injection pump to pump high pressure fuel back to the tank

I torque the injectors down to get them seated all the way then back the hold down bolts loose before I install the crossover tubes and torque them down then re-torque the hold down bolts.This allows the injector to move a little when the crossover tube is torqued down.

Injector lines get tighten first then the injector hold down get tighten. Also double check to see if debris is caught in the seat where the line meets the crossover tube.

So what if I just got done putting in new VP do i need to take valve cover off and loosen hold downs? or is it just the first time after removing and installing injectors? Will my copper washers sit back up or will they leak if i loosen hold downs and torque them back down? Do you think I should take valve cover off now and redo the procedure or should i leave it alone now that I'm down to one line that leaks a bit? Plus how is this helping problem when the leak is not on the inside, where tube meets injector but on the outside, where injector line meets the tube? Just thinking out loud.

I torque the injectors down to get them seated all the way then back the hold down bolts loose before I install the crossover tubes and torque them down then re-torque the hold down bolts.This allows the injector to move a little when the crossover tube is torqued down.

So do you do what Mike does and torque injector lines down first then re torque hold downs? or you just do the step you wrote above and then put on lines?

The lines are the last thing I do. I'm not saying that that's the correct way just the way I do them.

I just did my injectors again and what I did is: put injectors in, torque hold downs to 30 in/lb, put in tubes, losend hold downs, taped with back side of plastic screwdriver on tubes to straighten injectors very lightly, torqued injector hold downs back to 30in/lb, put lines on and snugged them just a little on injector side maybe 30in/lb, then torqued injectors to 90in/lb, then lines to about 30 ft/lb, then snugged lines at vp, then loosened 1,3,4,5 at injectors to bleed air, when got fuel out of them tightened lines back to about 30ft/lb and few more cranks it fired up. Let it run for few min. Shut it off and checked for leaks, all lines were just damp, so let it go for a few days and its all dry now with no leaks. I'm leaving it alone.

I just did my injectors again and what I did is: put injectors in, torque hold downs to 30 in/lb, put in tubes, losend hold downs, taped with back side of plastic screwdriver on tubes to straighten injectors very lightly, torqued injector hold downs back to 30in/lb, put lines on and snugged them just a little on injector side maybe 30in/lb, then torqued injectors to 90in/lb, then lines to about 30 ft/lb, then snugged lines at vp, then loosened 1,3,4,5 at injectors to bleed air, when got fuel out of them tightened lines back to about 30ft/lb and few more cranks it fired up. Let it run for few min. Shut it off and checked for leaks, all lines were just damp, so let it go for a few days and its all dry now with no leaks. I'm leaving it alone.

If they are not leaking you should be good. When I installed mine I torqued the injectors first and then the nut on the cross over tubes. They all leaked. I  went back loosened all the injectors, tightened the lines to the tubes and then torqued the injectors. No more leaks. If I ever change them again I will tighten the cross over tubes first and then torque the injectors.