I just want to get everyone's thoughts on tapping my injection pump. From what I've read, if the pump is going to fail from being re-manufactured improperly it will fail within the first month or couple thousand miles. I've had my industrial injection on since Christmas and have had Zero issues. I have a stealth plate, but they can still see the pricked wire when it's torn apart, and they can see the top bolts have been removed ( Probably voiding the warranty ). I'll probably be putting my he351cw on in the beginning of June and I think the comp, 100's and turbo would match really well.  Let me know what your thoughts are! Thanks in advance

OK are you talking about the turbo flange bolts or the manifold flange bolts? Turbo flange bolts are studs and the manifold to head are M10x1.5 hex bolts.

Do you have a local "fastenal" or "fasteners"?

There is one up here in denver, but I will be moving for the summer tomorrow and they don't have them in stock

bleh...

HE351CW install is now complete! In all honesty most of the swap was very smooth and straight forward. The hardesd thing to make was the charge pipe because I clocked the turbo. I am also running the factory wastegate with a boost elbow installed. With edge comp on 5x5 I saw a max of 44 pounds of boost! If anyone has any questions or would like to see a write up let me know and I'll see what I can do!

Write up! Pictures too haha

I should be tearing everything back apart tomorrow so that I can paint it. I'll do my best to document everything! 

Feel that extra air? Clean up those 100 hp sticks? Spooling? Egts?

Definitely tons of extra air! The boost just climbs as the rpms climb, unlike the HX. With the hx it would hit 38lbs then back down to 30 as the rpms climbed. As for clean up it is a very very light haze on the top end and to me that is clean! (That is just with the comp) With the comp and the smarty it's still a coal train. When I stacked them I got up too 45lbs of boost then backed off (Don't want to blow the head off) and it was still pouring black smoke. Spooling is very good. The turbo comes on right around 1500rmp and lights like crazy from there. Egts are easily manageable for DD. I can get up to 75-80 and be around 1350-1400deg on the piro. For towing I pulled my wire tap while leaving the edge on 5 x 5 and hauled a 6500lb flatbed with 3000 pounds of hay on it up some steep hills here in colorado. Holding 65 I was at 35lbs of boost and 1200deg egts. It pulled flawlessly with tons of power, but not so much things will start to break. So far I'm loving it! 

 

If anyone has any questions don't be afraid to ask! Love to share personal experience.

I'm still working on compiling the writeup. I have all of the pictures ready to go just need a break from work!

I did a boost leak check and have found a small leak between the compressor housing and the cartrige where the metal surfaces mate together. It only leakes where the gap of the snapring is. Does anyone know a remedy for this? I pulled the housing and cleaned both sides super well with a scotchbrite pad and put it back together with no better results.

Thanks!

Between compressor housing and center section? My WH1C has a v-band clamp and there is a big rubber o-ring that goes between the compressor housing and center section, then v-band pulls them together.

Edited June 18, 201411 yr by CTcummins24V

This one just has a giant snap-ring that holds the two sections together. There isn't and never was any sort of seal inbetween

 Check the snap ring. I know one side is beveled and it should be toward the cartridge if it's upside down it may cause a leak there. 

Mulcher, were you doing the swap yourself?

Yes sir and she is done and working very well up to 45psi. I'm not sure i like the way it is acting while towing yet.

In all my years of helping people I never heard of any reports of a VP44 fail because of a wire tap. It's always something else that kills the pump like bad alternator, dirty fuel, poor fuel filter, low fuel pressure, too much injector cleaners (fuel additive), etc. But always love how a rebuilder uses the tapped wire thing to deny warranty claims but attempt to sell pumps for high performance and know that the end user is going to tap the wire.

 

I can understand why dirty fuel or low fuel pressure would kill an injection pump, but what is it about a bad alternator that would kill the VP44? Low voltage? Voltage spikes? Unclean current? Or what about too much injector cleaner?  How much is too much? What is the reccomendation?  We should use some kind of anti-gel in winter as well as lubricity additve  year round correct? Becuase modern diesel fuel is ultra low sulfer?

Im using a 50/50 mix of Howes lubricator diesel treat & walmart tc3w 2 stroke oil. I typically ad 8 total oz of this custom mix per tankful. 

 

What is the popular concensus on treating our fuel these days?

 

Thanks!

I think most of us use the 128:1 ratio 1oz of 2-cycle per gallon of fuel. Adding a little of the Howes won't hurt anything either it's just an extra expense. As for voltage killing a VP I have yet to deal with that. Mostly just a loss of fuel or lack of fuel.

I can understand why dirty fuel or low fuel pressure would kill an injection pump, but what is it about a bad alternator that would kill the VP44? Low voltage? Voltage spikes? Unclean current? Or what about too much injector cleaner?  How much is too much? What is the reccomendation?  We should use some kind of anti-gel in winter as well as lubricity additve  year round correct? Becuase modern diesel fuel is ultra low sulfer?

Im using a 50/50 mix of Howes lubricator diesel treat & walmart tc3w 2 stroke oil. I typically ad 8 total oz of this custom mix per tankful. 

 

What is the popular concensus on treating our fuel these days?

 

Thanks!

 

4 thing that will kill a VP44...

 

1. Fuel pressure too low. Suggested: 14-20 PSI this is for Bosch requirements of 70% return rate for proper cooling and lubing.

2. Fuel Lubricity score too high. Suggested: <450 HFRR all US diesel fuel scores in about ~520 HFRR considered poor by Bosch's standards. Be careful of the products you select because some actually make the score worse.

3. Excessive AC Noise. Suggested: <0.1 Volts AC measured at the alternator BATT stud.

4. Poor Fuel filtration. Suggested: Using 2 fuel filters. Or even a good quality single filter with a 2-3 micron rating.

 

* footnote for #2 - A lot of products are either injector cleaner or cetane booster this is one product you need to try to avoid using because typically the higher the cetane the low BTU rating is of the diesel hence the MPG's fall then on top of it high cetane fuel in the summer tends increase injector noise.

 

Im using a 50/50 mix of Howes lubricator diesel treat & walmart tc3w 2 stroke oil.

 

You should never mix products together. Read over the SDS sheet and the chemicals. Then think of how those chemicals might react with the 2 cycle oil.

http://www.howeslube.com/MSDS_Sheets/US/Diesel_Treat_SDS_-_U.S.pdf

I don't ever mix products but I will use the Howes in the winter time. Back in ND I would also run #1 diesel fuel instead of the #2. I had #2 gel on me a couple times and it is the worst. I liked the howes because it is still a petroleum product where the others like power service uses alcohol for the anti gel. That alcohol I feel cant be good for the VP or the injectors. The rest of the year I just run a quart of 2 stroke oil every other tank of fuel.

4 thing that will kill a VP44...

 

1. Fuel pressure too low. Suggested: 14-20 PSI this is for Bosch requirements of 70% return rate for proper cooling and lubing.

2. Fuel Lubricity score too high. Suggested: <450 HFRR all US diesel fuel scores in about ~520 HFRR considered poor by Bosch's standards. Be careful of the products you select because some actually make the score worse.

3. Excessive AC Noise. Suggested: <0.1 Volts AC measured at the alternator BATT stud.

4. Poor Fuel filtration. Suggested: Using 2 fuel filters. Or even a good quality single filter with a 2-3 micron rating.

 

* footnote for #2 - A lot of products are either injector cleaner or cetane booster this is one product you need to try to avoid using because typically the higher the cetane the low BTU rating is of the diesel hence the MPG's fall then on top of it high cetane fuel in the summer tends increase injector noise.

 

 

You should never mix products together. Read over the SDS sheet and the chemicals. Then think of how those chemicals might react with the 2 cycle oil.

http://www.howeslube.com/MSDS_Sheets/US/Diesel_Treat_SDS_-_U.S.pdf

Item 2. Fuel Lubricity.  What product & quantity are you using?  I'd like to make sure I'm using the right stuff & correct amount.

Item 3. Excessive AC Noise. To check this can I simply use a multi meter set to AC volts?  Should I ground the multi meeter directly to the battery? or to the alternator housing?  Does it matter if checked at idle or should it be done at any certain rpm range?

 

Thanks!

Edited July 22, 201411 yr by Mopar1973Man
Correcting the quote