I have a 2002 2500 with the factory towing package. The truck was used to tow a 5th wheel all over the country before I got it.

 

Now I am about to tow something with the truck and the place I am renting the trailer from (U-Haul) is asking what are the ratings on the tow hitch. Cannot find anything about it on the net...

 

Anyone have any ideas? 

 

Thanks,

 

FT

There are different class ratings. Not sure what ours are. But I can tell you I've had 12,000# on mine.

Typically our trucks can haul roughly 9,000 to 13,000 pound trailers. Hitch weight of about 900 to 1,300 (~10%).

Also depends on the stinger. Some rated higher than others. Should be in the owners manual. Load distributing can go higher.

Edited May 23, 201411 yr by joecool911

I still have the sticker on my stock receiver hitch. I will post up a pic here in a sec. Joe is correct too. Double check to make sure your ball mount is rated for the correct capacity for whatever you are towing.

That's a question I can't get answered...

 

Why is that only RV's require a Weight Distribution Hitch where most all utility trailers don't? Like my Fire Chief has utility box trailers that gross more weight than my RV but don't require a WD hitch. Even my BigTex 70TV is really close to the RV in weights but doesn't require a WD hitch either. But some can hitch up to a bumper bull flat bed trailer grossing 13,000 to 14,000 with a tractor no problem without a WD hitch but on the flip side RV requires (or highly suggested). Why is this?

I have my opinions about this but I dont know how true they are.

 

I have always thought the W/D was more for turning control of the trailer. The RV (in most cases) is probably more top heavy so to speak. It has more body roll than say a flatbed or utility trailer. I have always thought that the W/D helps with that bod roll.

Maybe the RV manufacturers think that the W/D will help for people who arent used to pulling trailers. They usually dont slow down enough for the corners and take their trailers into places that they shouldn't. I think they are just using the W/D as an extra precaution to keep that trailer on the road and right side up.

I am also not sure why they call it "weight distribution" because all that weight is still on the the hitch and components. It is not really distributing the weight from anything except being directly on the hitch ball.

 

Again, these are just my opinions on the matter and I am open to other opinions as well.

image.jpg

What's that off of, a yugo? I do double that without weight distributing.

Edited May 23, 201411 yr by joecool911

Believe it or not I took that right off the stock receiver hitch on my 01.

Will,

 

Thanks MUCH for the photo! Can now take that with me and make sure that there are no hassles.

 

Mike, I just towed a 10,000 RV trailer so know that the truck will do it but the people at U-haul can be difficult at times so wanted to do this first and make sure!

 

Thanks everyone!

 

FT

Weight distributing hitches are required if your trailer is out of balance.  I used to fit boats to their trailers...  and we would move the axles to get the tongue weight to 10% of load & not more than 2-3 hundred pounds.  When I hauled 2 horses in the rear of my bumper pull stock trailer...  2500# behind the axles...  I used to ballast the front with weight bars besides our camping gear...  Rear Heavy)  Like wise you can be tongue heavy & either ballast the rear or use a WD hitch.  Can't move axles in RVs generally, though you can change the loading.  

 

With a gooseneck or 5th wheel your tongue weight is centered (or I prefer a couple of inches forward or rear axle if possible, like my 79 C30 was built) the tongue weight is on the rear axle instead of using leverage to try to carry the load...  so hitch weight can be much higher.

 

My old Scamper 5th wheel camper was nicely balanced on the axles with very minimal hitch weight.  My horse trailer has a very long dressing room in front of the axles which are under the horses...  It towed fine but man I hated cranking the landing gear to uncouple. 

image.jpg

 

I too have the same sticker on my hitch...

 

I've put a 13k trailer on mine, so that would be in the ballpark of 1,300 tongue weight. It was a double axle trailer with a forklift.

Here is the owners manual...

Actually, the reason (in my book!) that RVs recommend a WD hitch is because people are trying to pull a trailer as big as or bigger than their Chevy Aztec or F150 can support and makes them squat so bad they are unsafe. The WD hitch gets them level for safer towing.

Actually, the reason (in my book!) that RVs recommend a WD hitch is because people are trying to pull a trailer as big as or bigger than their Chevy Aztec or F150 can support and makes them squat so bad they are unsafe. The WD hitch gets them level for safer towing.

 

Still why is utility trailers excluded? I've seen some out weigh some RV's.

My hitch has the same info as Ilikeoldfords does. I to have been over that mark with hauling excavators and loaders with it...

Still why is utility trailers excluded? I've seen some out weigh some RV's.

The only reason I can think of is a CYA by the RV industry.

Yeah, like U-Haul putting stickers on their trailers saying 45 mph max speed and check lug nuts every 100 miles.

Yeah, like U-Haul putting stickers on their trailers saying 45 mph max speed and check lug nuts every 100 miles.

 

Never seen a trailer towed at 45 MPH nor have I seen anyone along the road checking lug nuts every hundred miles.

That's a question I can't get answered...

 

Why is that only RV's require a Weight Distribution Hitch where most all utility trailers don't? Like my Fire Chief has utility box trailers that gross more weight than my RV but don't require a WD hitch. Even my BigTex 70TV is really close to the RV in weights but doesn't require a WD hitch either. But some can hitch up to a bumper bull flat bed trailer grossing 13,000 to 14,000 with a tractor no problem without a WD hitch but on the flip side RV requires (or highly suggested). Why is this?

here's  a  shot in the dark...

 

RV's  'look'  like  they  may have  a  higher  center of  gravity..  (of course,  depending on how a  utility trailer is loaded...)    and  upon   braking,    that may   cause   more  rotational  downforce  on the hitch..  

    RV's  are  loaded/towed   'heavy'   dang near  100%  of the time,  a  utility  is    closer to 50%   of the time..      (run  empty to   pick  up  a load,  return home  loaded..  or  vice versa  ) 

 

Location of   axles...     RV's   more  rearward  on   axle  CL...  giving more   tongue weight,  (but more   towing  stability)  than   a  utility?  Some people  only   pull a trailer   once or  twice a year,  and   having  ease of  pulling/stability  may be more important than  'light'  tongue weight.. 

Or  here's  another  thought:     people  who can  afford  a  nice  RV,   can also  afford  this  'option'  (whether or not  it's really needed) 

This  is  all I can come up with!