OK, thinking its time to pick up some gauges. So if we are talking a max of three, or if I don't even need three, what are the most important gauges to get in order of importance? Running the Smarty S06 on 5. Is that in my sig line? Ya it is.

Edited July 16, 201411 yr by Diesel

On a 3rd gen my preference would be 4 at minimum if I were to do it.

 

 

fuel rail pressure

Pyro

Boost

fuel transfer pump pressure

If towing heavy a lot then tranny temp gauge.

On the 3rd Gen's I would do 3 and they would be

 

Fuel Rail

Pyro

Boost

 

this is what i have installed in a few buddies trucks.

Boost, EGT are the two to run.

Unless you know what the rail pressure should be the gauge is all but useless. The ECM knows what it should be and will set a code if it's wrong. The only times it's really useful is for tuning, as in UDC or EFI live, or if your running an MP-8.

As for a 3rd gauge I recommend low pressure fuel, it's not monitored by the ECM.

If you really want rail pressure then get a ultra gauge, it's cheaper and more accurate. It also shows you a host of they OBDII monitored sensors.

.

Unless you know what the rail pressure should be the gauge is all but useless. The ECM knows what it should be and will set a code if it's wrong. The only times it's really useful is for tuning, as in UDC or EFI live, or if your running an MP-8.

 

 

I disagree John.  If I didn't have my RP gauge installed when my truck was running properly;  how would I have known I was having "an issue" on my February snow goose hunt trip???  I knew long prior to the truck throwing a code that something wasn't right.  Just saying!!  

 

 

I have boost, EGT, and LP gauged with Autometer UltraLites.  I also have a Quadzilla RP gauge that is still working just as good now as when I got it.................lucky I guess!!!

Edited July 16, 201411 yr by dorkweed

The fuel pressure gauge isn't as important on the 3rd gen trucks like it was on 2nd gens is it? Didn't dodge work out the failing lift pump problem by 2006?

They did; but IMHO, it was only a "satisfactory" fix.

Fuel pressure isnt used on 3rd gens fuel flow is more important

OK, so why do I need a boost gauge? Besides the obvious of knowing if I'm loosing manifold pressure or not. Is there a known problem with the manifold pressure I'm not aware of? Or is it another reason?

For some reason I cannot get the multiquote function to work, so I'm just going to paraphrase

Dorkweed, I think your scenario is rare. Most folks don't see enough to know what is wrong, especially when running a tuner. Then CEL did trip and really that's going to be the best indicator of a rail pressure issue.

Starting for MY05 the fuel pump was upgraded to the in-tank pump, and a retrofit kit is available for older trucks. The in-tank pump has proven itself, and has been more reliable than any of the aftermarket pumps. The general consensus is that unless you need the flow for power the OEM in-tank is best, and it will support at least 450-500rwhp. Flow is what matters to a CP3, as long as it has good flow it's happy. I usually say above 2 psi, not to exceed 15. Bosch say minus 5 psi is the min, but most gauges are positive pressure only is why I say 2.

Boost isn't nearly as important, but it can tell you if you are working the stock turbo too hard. The stock turbo runs out of turbine long before compressor so we want to limit boost to 36-38 at most. Anymore than that and the drive pressure is beyond excessive and the turbo may be over speeding.

Sounds like only two are really needed.

Sounds like only two are really needed.

It fully depends on what you do with your truck and how it's tuned.

I wouldn't run SW5 without a boost gauge, especially if you turn the WG off.

i'm in the same predicament right now. i'm thinking three gauge pod in the dash cubby hole. i know EGT, trans temp, maybe boost.

far as i can tell Genos is best place for them. unless you kind folks know of better place to shop.

FYI, that location seems good but it really takes your eyes a long ways from the road to monitor. The 3 on top of the dash is a much safer location.

FYI, that location seems good but it really takes your eyes a long ways from the road to monitor. The 3 on top of the dash is a much safer location.

 

Or 3 on the pillar..........which I have.

Or 3 on the pillar..........which I have.

 

Yep. I ran 2 on the pillar for a while and wanted my grab handle back so I switched to a single pillar gauge and the 3 on the dash. The OEM single pillar mount gave me back about 1" of visibility.

with the three on the dash, do you have to cut a hole in the dash for wiring? i'm not sure i wana cut mine.

with the three on the dash, do you have to cut a hole in the dash for wiring? i'm not sure i wana cut mine.

 

Yes, just a small hole. The piece you cut a hole in is replaceable in about 2 minutes if you ever decide to sell the truck without gauges.

 

I tow, on rare occasion, with my dad's 06. He has a 2 pillar mount, and the 3 on the dash is by far a better setup for monitoring the gauges and the road.

 

I have also had the 3 over the mirror, and 2 on the column. Nothing is as easy to read as the dash mount.

 

You can see here the piece that is visible is removed while I get the wiring ready.

 

 

 

When I switched from Pricol to ISSPRO 2 years ago I move the pyro to the left dash pod and oil pressure to the a-pillar. It makes for a better cross scan.

white face black lettering or the EV2's? im not a fan of the sensor gauges like my old glowshift ones. loved teh gauge look. but the sensors were junk. thank you SOO much for the pics.

 

i'm a big fan of the autometer ultra-lite not the ultra'lite 2's.

Edited August 17, 201411 yr by Killer223

Those are Pricol's. Now I have EV2's all around. My pricol pyro was on the fritz so I sold the other 4 and bought all new EV2's in 2012.

 

 

I know they aren't level in the pic, it was taken just after sliding them in before rotating them

This is how I do it:

 

 

The single pillar gauge is for my airbags:

 

 

I usually have Boost, Egt and Trans Temp showing on the big three gauges and then I'll have rail pressure and gear info on the two smaller ones.  I also have a built in code reader with this.