I just ordered some 100 HP nozzles and picked up some stock injectors for a swap. I can't seem to find any good write ups/instructions for swapping the nozzles, torque specs, tips? Maybe 28 ft-lbs? Seems pretty straight forward but any help would be appreciated, thanks.  

I believe the tip torque is 35 ft-lb 

Injector hold down are 89 in-lb

Really simple process. Just make sure you keep everything clean! Why'd you pick up another set of injectors? I would use the ones you have in there if you know the pop off pressures are correct. 

Only tip I have is to get them pop tested/adjusted after swapping the nozzles, chanced are the pressures will change even if you use the same size shims.

I believe the tip torque is 35 ft-lb 

Injector hold down are 89 in-lb

Really simple process. Just make sure you keep everything clean! Why'd you pick up another set of injectors? I would use the ones you have in there if you know the pop off pressures are correct. 

For $50 it's worth having another set of injectors kickin around. Now I can sell my 60s, put huge nozzles on them or keep them as back ups.

Once your done changing nozzles now you got to send all six injectors out and and have them pop tested. You can't just change nozzles without having them re-pop tested. Usually make nozzle sets higher in price once you figure in pop testing and tuning. Locally its $15 a injector to be tuned.

How do injector tips effect the pop pressure??

How do injector tips effect the pop pressure??

 

From small changes is length of the pintle needle and/or seat depth. Maybe the owners shims are already worn too. That why there is different sized shims for tuning the pop pressure so that all injectors are evenly match in pressures. It's always being suggest in pop testing all injectors after nozzle install.

Hmm.. not sure I buy that too much. Then again I speak HPCR a lot better :-)

 

Getting the pop tested and calibrated is a good thing to do, but if they are good before the swap they would be good after .

Like I learned from the RV275's I got from CajFlynn. Just because they all popped about 290-295 bar (little low) still good to go. By the next year they had dropped off to 240 bar on the lowest injector. When they where inspection in Lewiston, ID there was shims that where wore down, pintles where seated deeper in the nozzle from wear. So now between the shim wear and the nozzle wear will give that slack for change in pop pressure. Now even with new nozzles if the shims are worn your still going to be off in pressure. So more or less you got a fresh tip but the rest of it worn and might not match perfectly (305-310 bar).

I hope it's only $15 per injector, then I should break even price wise and learn how to take apart injectors too.

Do I need all new o-rings and copper washers even though I replaced all of them just over a year ago? Connector tube o-rings, injectors o-rings, copper washers? That would be an unwanted $40 if I can avoid it, but it seems like the right thing to do...

It's the right thing to do.

 

Ed

Like I learned from the RV275's I got from CajFlynn. Just because they all popped about 290-295 bar (little low) still good to go. By the next year they had dropped off to 240 bar on the lowest injector. When they where inspection in Lewiston, ID there was shims that where wore down, pintles where seated deeper in the nozzle from wear. So now between the shim wear and the nozzle wear will give that slack for change in pop pressure. Now even with new nozzles if the shims are worn your still going to be off in pressure. So more or less you got a fresh tip but the rest of it worn and might not match perfectly (305-310 bar).

DDP recommends the pop off pressure to be 290 bar and I've seen it like you said at 310, is there a set factory pressure? Should high performance injectors be set higher?

Here is Dodge FSM specs.

 

The only thing you gain by lower pop pressure is timing and spray quality degrades as pressure is reduced. Also sooner the boost pressure can flood the fuel system on a deceleration. Just like tractor pullers they get to the end of the track and gotta tap the throttle a few time to keep if from dying out. This is to push the air bubbles back out of the injectors. Higher the pressure the later in timing but better the quality of the spray and atomization equals better efficiency.

Just to reiterate, torque the hold down bolt to 89 in-lbs, then push the cross over tube in and tighten the injector line? I think last time I pushed the tube in, then torqued the hold down bolt to spec...

Once your done changing nozzles now you got to send all six injectors out and and have them pop tested. You can't just change nozzles without having them re-pop tested. Usually make nozzle sets higher in price once you figure in pop testing and tuning. Locally its $15 a injector to be tuned.

 

Mike you were right, as usual, nozzles alone with testing would be more expensive so I just ordered 100 hp injectors for $350, maybe it was $380 with cross over tube rings.  

Just to reiterate, torque the hold down bolt to 89 in-lbs, then push the cross over tube in and tighten the injector line? I think last time I pushed the tube in, then torqued the hold down bolt to spec...

 

Backwards.

 

1. Push the injector in.

2. Now push in your crossover tube.

3. Pre-torque the crossover tube.

4. Torque the injector cap. (89 in/lbs)

5. Finish tightening the cross over tubes.

 

This allows the crossover tubes to push the injector where it needs to to center up for proper seal of the crossover tube.

 

300 bar 100 hp VCOs

I wonder about the 300 bar thing why is that? Stock rate is 310 bar.

That was my question as well, and reading DDP's website they say set it to 290 bar...

I've now read a couple different threads where the VCO nozzle has cracked across the tip of the injector. I'm not saying yours will, but that was my main reason for going with SACs. Make sure to post your results!