My left front axle is leaking on my 4x4. Is this a fix for the faint of heart? As I understand the left is a lot harder than the right. Any idea what a shop would charge? Should I plan on other things while stuff is off?

Edited September 21, 201410 yr by joecool911

left as in driver side or passenger side?

 

either way the front axle will need to be disassembled and the diff pulled out.

 

get a long piece of allthread and washers of the same or just smaller diameter than the seals, drive old ones out then "pull" the new ones in with the allthread.  at least this is how im going to do mine someday.

 

replace both while you are in there.

Edited September 21, 201410 yr by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

Drivers side. Any supplements that can be added to "fix" seal short of replacement?

I had mine done at a shop for free. What happen I went to my favorite tire shop had a set of front wheel bearing installed. When I went out to get the truck the driver side leaking gear lube. So the manager of the store which I know very well took care of the issue instantly and setup a appointment with a shop in Ontario, OR to replace both front axle seals. Some day I'll have to contend with the 1996 Dodge Ram leaking.

I did it this summer. It wasn't that bad of a job relatively speaking. I pulled both bearing assemblies with the axle shafts still attached, pulled the CAD and diff cover, marked the caps that hold the differential in place, pulled the caps and laid under the the axle while my dad used a bar and gently pried on the inside of the ring gear. It popped out much easier than expected. We then used 3/4in drive sockets and LOTS of extensions to drive the seals out. Getting the new ones in was a bear though! Using sockets and extensions we drove the new seals back into place. I had to use a flapper wheel on a grinder to taper the edge of both seals just a hair so that we could get the seals started in straight. Didn't do any damage to the seals, but made them start easier and go in straight. We then put the differential back in and torqued the caps down. Be VERY careful sliding the axle shafts back into place, as it is easy to hit the seal and rip it. The short shaft between the CAD and the differential was a pain the get lined back up and locked in, but it can be done! Overall not too bad. If anyone has questions about any part of the repair let me know. 

I see that quad4x4.com sells a service manual for doing the job for $10. Looks like the parts necessary with seal install tool is $250. Looking at videos on YouTube, a proper seal install tool makes the job a lot easier. I am willing to buy the install tool and will loan it to anyone who needs it via mail. I e gotten so much from you guys it'd be a way to pay you guys back.

One question. I read that there could be wear in the axle shaft sealing surface. And that you need to locate the seal so that it's not on the wear point. Do the seals actually wear out the metal on the shaft? Seems strange. Rubber wearing out metal.

very common for the seal to wear a grove in metal. they make sleeve covers for this purpose

I made a seal "puller'' when I did mine. If you're handy with a metal lathe I can send you some dimensions and a pic. or two.

Not sure what a sleeve is, but here's a link and picture of what's included.

I don't have a lathe.

http://www.quad4x4.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=acton&key=4621

They are sometimes called speedy sleeves. Just a thin piece of metal that will slide over the sealing surface if that surface has worn out. They are common on trailer spindles and axle pinions. It is amazing what that little rubber seal will do to a metal spindle over time.

So the ultimate solution would be to replace axles if worn? How do you measure wear? Or just visual?

I got my seals from Napa for around 40 each. I have 180k+ on my dodge and the axles didn't have any groves in them from the seals. After replacing I haven't had a drop leak out yet! Before everywhere I stopped there would be drips running down the tire onto the concrete

Good to know. My left is dripping overnight. Might as well rebuild calipers, new u joints at the same time.

If the u joints have grease zerks, have they already been replaced?

Yeah if your u-joints have zerks they have already been replaced the factory u-joints are non serviceable.