Front of truck...................cannot hear it in the cab...................all gauges and dash stuff read normally.

 

Sounds like an inconsistent rubbing/grinding.  The whole front end of my truck is OEM.  I'm thinking it could be alternator, fan clutch, water pump, idler pulley, belt tensioner pulley, or the power steering unit.

 

Anyone wanna take a guess or help a guy out as to where to start??

 

I'm gonna start by backing off the serpentine belt tensioner and then manually turning all the parts on the front end.  Hopefully I'll find the culprit by doing that.......

i have a question, how would one go about changing said PS fluid? pull the line off and let it drain? or ???

I've  slipped the  return hose off  the back of the pump  (hose with the clamp)   and let the pump  do the work.     Usually  I have enough fluid around to do this  a couple times   back to back

Thank you.

I do the same thing.

 

But, Lindy down at the shop tends to lift the vehicle off the floor and then leave the return line off and engine off. Then pan the steering from left to right several times till empty. Then hook up the return line and then fills it back up with fluid. Then pan the steering slowly with the engine off and purge the system of air. Then its ready for starting up. But this is generic method for all vehicles.

I have done it both ways on my 05. First time I did it I pulled the return line from the pump and plugged the reservoir and then kept the reservoir full as I ran the truck and ran the wheel stop to stop.

 

The second time I pulled the lines off the cooler and let it gravity drain and turned the wheels stop to stop, then refilled and started.

 

I got about the same amount of fluid out both ways, but I do think the method of pulling the return line is better and the first time I did it I wanted all the OEM fluid out. This last time was just a drain and fill, so it was easier to not mess with the return line.

Noise seems to be temperature dependent guys.  Today is almost 50* and from a cold start today, there's no sound.  Yesterday was a bit colder (about 35*) and I heard when I first started my truck.....................had several errands to run where I shut the truck down for a few minutes at each stop.....................when I got home, walking in front of the truck to open my garage, I didn't hear the sound.

 

I also checked the PS fluid level....................right where it should be.................I used Amsoil the last time......................don't have any here now.

I would get 2-3 quarts of Amsoil ATF and change it, it's a relatively cheap change and old fluid does what you are describing.

is it a  buzzing  noise...  like  hydraulic  buzzing??   Changes  when you turn the  steering wheel?? 

 

Mine  does it  just before  the  pump  goes bad.  3x  now in   5 yrs.     I've often wondered if  my priority valve is   bad,   and either   over pressures or  over flows  the system.   my  return line  is  always  pretty dang hot. 

Changing the fluid more often  has  helped.

Edited November 30, 201410 yr by rancherman

UPDATE!!

 

Finally warm enough today to spend time and pull the serpentine belt and run the truck minus the belt.  Well, the noise is totally gone.  Inspected all the pulleys again;  and all seemed fine except for the fan clutch.  All spun free and easy (alternator, water pump, tensioner, idler, balancer, AC and PS) even the viscous fan clutch;  but if I grabbed the fan itself at 3 and 9 o'clock, it would rock back and forth about 1/4-5/16" at the clutch itself and the mounting nut.  That would make it seem to me that the bearing is going out, correct???  This is movement I can see looking down while rocking the fan.  It's not the fan blades deflecting.

 

I'm going to give it a shot of some white lithium grease and get it back together for now.

 

What say y'all??

BY JOVE, I do think he's got it! You won't loose anything by trying some grease then you will know for sure!

hey,  before you  button it back up...     why don't you knock off the   fan and  thread the belt back up... just to  make sure it was the  clutch... 

 

Sometimes  a  pulley  that isn't under  tension (lack of belt)   will   'sound fine'   when spun by hand..

hey,  before you  button it back up...     why don't you knock off the   fan and  thread the belt back up... just to  make sure it was the  clutch... 

 

Sometimes  a  pulley  that isn't under  tension (lack of belt)   will   'sound fine'   when spun by hand..

 

 

Got her all buttoned back up before I got back here............sorry.

 

Well guess what now.........................had to clear codes with the Smarty because of running her without the belt................................did that, started her up, and the noise is back...............................shut her down....................................checked to see if that deflection is there; and it was................................ but now the fan spins freely when I give a spin......................at least 3-4 revolutions now, whereas before it would only go 1/2 a revolution.

 

I would surmise that my rocking the fan clutch back and forth around under there did something, hey???  It also makes a slight grinding/squeaky noise while I do this.....................speeded up would sound very similar to the noise I've been hearing.

Edited December 26, 201410 yr by dorkweed

ANOTHER UPDATE!!

 

 

 

Checked the truck several times today.  The fan now will start out somewhat stiff (normal);  but if I keep trying to "spin" it, it will loosen up and freewheel with that slight grinding/squealing noise I mentioned prior.

 

In hindsight, I do believe that this fan clutch hasn't been working for quite sometime now.  I've not heard the "roar" of the fan with the AC on for a long while, and the AC doesn't blow cool sitting in traffic.  AC does work fine going down the road though.  Thought I was just low on refrigerant.

Right after this thread started mine started the squeaky metal rub sound. Must be Virus.

 

I thought it was the belt tensioner pulley but I changed it and the squalling noise is getting worse while sitting at idle. Most important to check the water pump before any damage occurs to the radiator. Just replace it every so often is best. Be doing that today.

Edited December 27, 201410 yr by JAG1

OEM or aftermarket fan clutch???

 

Prices range from $126.00-388.00.

 

Doesn't seem to be any reliable info on the various forums about what to get.

Dorkweed, don't see how it could be your fan clutch. My other trucks got over 400 k still on the original. If your not sure it's cheaper and good maintenance to change water pump. Doin mine in the next hour so.

Edited December 27, 201410 yr by JAG1

You should get a soft code when the fan is failing and not reaching the desired rpms. I rarely ever hear mine, even at 215° ECT but the Smarty a Touch shows me fan rpms and it works.

I vote OEM on cooling system stuff. I wonder if it's available thru Cummins or just Mopar.

You should get a soft code when the fan is failing and not reaching the desired rpms. I rarely ever hear mine, even at 215° ECT but the Smarty a Touch shows me fan rpms and it works.

I vote OEM on cooling system stuff. I wonder if it's available thru Cummins or just Mopar.

 

 

John, I believe the bearing in the thing is going out and that's what causing the noise.  As I typed prior;  if I look down at the fan clutch between the shroud and upper hose, then grab the fan at 3 and 9 o'clock then rock the fan back and forth toward the engine and radiator...................I see the fan clutch unit move in relation to the mounting nut where it screws onto the fan pulley.

 

Does that make sense???

 

No codes............yet.

 

This just started around the time I started this thread.

Yes the beating movement you described doesn't sound normal. I was referring to where you said you didn't think it has been working for a while if it's not working there should be a code.

wow!  there's  a  speed sensor on the fan??  (for your vintage)

 

All  fan clutches  will have  lateral movement...  It's just the way  the fluid drive  is made.   Your measurement  is  certainly  'right at the maximum'..  for  a failing part.

I've  seen  specs  for   'up to  3/16's  inch'  being  'ok'.

 

I'd still  throw  the belt back on  without the clutch attached... just for giggles!   (you gotta take it off anyways)

 

Just don't wait too long... otherwise  we will be reading;    "fan sailed through radiator"... 

Edited December 28, 201410 yr by rancherman