Back in 07 I bought a PF100 for an 01 24v that I had. In less than a year I was on my 3rd pump, (all covered under warranty). The first one burnt its self out due to being restricted, the second one quit due to a cheap o-ring that shrunk in the cold weather allowing the pump to suck air. The 3rd pump seemed to work alright but by then the blue fuel lines had started to show dry rot cracks. I ended up selling the truck not to long after that so I wasnt able to really put the pump to the test. To those who have and are currently running an Airdog, have you experienced an issues?

 

A few weeks ago I picked up a basically stock 02 24v and have been looking for lift pump replacement options. Naturally Airdog is the first name that comes to mind. I see now they have a few different models Is there any benifit with the Aridog II over the PF100? My over all goal for the truck is somewhere in the neighborhood of 475 ponies, and whatever torque figure that get me.

I have a question, whats the thinking behind the ball valves, I see one on the delivery line and one on the return line. but i did not see one on the suction line,. may it was just out of the picture, is this something you added for servicing purposes or anti thief? 

 

THanks, 

I didn't want to pinch lines every time I play with ball and spring or change fuel filter. so I added 3 ball valves, 2 on pump and one on line, if you look closely you'll see all 3. Plus my return and intake lines are both in fuel basket if I don'd shut off valves it would siphon fuel out ether line. 

I didn't want to pinch lines every time I play with ball and spring or change fuel filter. so I added 3 ball valves, 2 on pump and one on line, if you look closely you'll see all 3. Plus my return and intake lines are both in fuel basket if I don'd shut off valves it would siphon fuel out ether line. 

ok, with the AD 2 165 I didn't have to play that ball and spring game. but i did find out real fast that i had to be fast with changing the filters  

 

another question, where did you tap for a pressure gauge? I am still routing my fuel through the factory fuel filter housing, even tho the the fuel is filtered before it, after able 18 months, the fuel pressure is dropping a little farther then i like (more so when its below 40 degrees) 

so i am to the point i need to bypass the factory housing and running the 1/2 line directly to the VP44. but that i will lose my tapping point for the sending unit. 

I know i can get one of those, I just hate to cut the line. 

 

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Push-Lock-Fuel-Pressure-Tee-1-2-p/plt8.htm

ok, with the AD 2 165 I didn't have to play that ball and spring game. but i did find out real fast that i had to be fast with changing the filters

 

another question, where did you tap for a pressure gauge? I am still routing my fuel through the factory fuel filter housing, even tho the the fuel is filtered before it, after able 18 months, the fuel pressure is dropping a little farther then i like (more so when its below 40 degrees) 

so i am to the point i need to bypass the factory housing and running the 1/2 line directly to the VP44. but that i will lose my tapping point for the sending unit. 

I know i can get one of those, I just hate to cut the line. 

 

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Push-Lock-Fuel-Pressure-Tee-1-2-p/plt8.htm

I put mine about 6-8'' before inlet to VP ( 1/2"T, 1/4" Street 90, Needle valve, 1/4"T, push in 1/8" line to fuel gauge and electric fuel sender.  

its funny you comment about the needle valve,  when i was chatting with the rep at isspro about the need of a snubber, they looked me funny and said there sending unit does not need anything like that. yes the pressure dances around a psi or two when idling, but i have never seen any spikes what others warned about. 

any insight on that? 

its funny you comment about the needle valve,  when i was chatting with the rep at isspro about the need of a snubber, they looked me funny and said there sending unit does not need anything like that. yes the pressure dances around a psi or two when idling, but i have never seen any spikes what others warned about. 

any insight on that? 

without needle valve you'll prematurely damage your gauge or sending unit. Everybody on this site has a needle valve and maybe combined with snubber. only needs to be cracked open about 1/8 of turn. 

Ok just ordered titanium Fass150 from CPP, made sure to tell him i came from this site and Mike is the man. I talked with AD this morning and got poop for answer, basically I can buy another pump for few hundred bucks, just so it craps out again, I was nice and wanted to see if  I could get o-rings and brushes maybe, "no we don't offer that", "not sure where you can get them ether". That's why I call you, You made this, shouldn't you be able to get me o-rings. WTF  , I guess they won't make money this way. Jamie at CPP was pretty cool with me and hopefully in future there will be no problems with them, I'll make sure to send in warranty card too.

without needle valve you'll prematurely damage your gauge or sending unit. Everybody on this site has a needle valve and maybe combined with snubber. only needs to be cracked open about 1/8 of turn. 

hmm interesting, something must be missing here, because adding a simple restriction devise to control spikes does not add up with fluid dynamics. what is need to is an air chamber, (the same reason you see them in house hold plumbing), maybe the extra piping involved to create this arrangement satisfies this require. and maybe the trapped air at the top factory filter housing satisfied this requirement in my case.  as everyone knows, fluid is not compressible. so the transmission of an spikes will be seen with out a way to absorbing it.  i would be more afraid of getting false readings because of the created restriction. sorry, no disrespect intended, 

hmm interesting, something must be missing here, because adding a simple restriction devise to control spikes does not add up with fluid dynamics. what is need to is an air chamber, (the same reason you see them in house hold plumbing), maybe the extra piping involved to create this arrangement satisfies this require. and maybe the trapped air at the top factory filter housing satisfied this requirement in my case. as everyone knows, fluid is not compressible. so the transmission of an spikes will be seen with out a way to absorbing it. i would be more afraid of getting false readings because of the created restriction. sorry, no disrespect intended,

All that does is reduces pulse strength from pumps, and yes it won't be QUIK about being accurate but it will be accurate for daily driving. Pressure will not change just volume. And that volume in pulses from fuel pumps is what kills fuel gauges prematurely. That's why you only crack needle valve barely open, even on start up it will take a few seconds to rise to proper reading, but if you don't have needle valve it's almost instant. Think of it as a 12" water main in front of your house and you only have 3/4 or 1" line coming to your house. Let's say there is a fire few blocks away and fire department needs water, they hook up to a hydrant and fill their tanker up and a new guy doesn't know that when you shut off fire hydrants you go slower especially towards the end. If it hammers and most time it will it can easily brake water main pipe. If you had 12" main coming to your house and it hammered it would blow the end of it off unless you had a tank parked in front of it. So I guess my point is by reducing what's coming through you eliminating chances of blowing **** up.

its funny you comment about the needle valve,  when i was chatting with the rep at isspro about the need of a snubber, they looked me funny and said there sending unit does not need anything like that. yes the pressure dances around a psi or two when idling, but i have never seen any spikes what others warned about. 

any insight on that? 

I've heard  too that the isspro  sending unit   is  stout enough  to withstand  the  pulses.     I think    WildandFree   told me  he  is   running  isspro  w/o   snubber.

 

edit:  has  anyone  tried to  just use  an airlock...  like  used  in  household  plumbing.      It'd  be   tee'd  into the  line,  and  the sensor  would  be  on THAT  line,  and   BEYOND  the sensor  would  be   6-8 inches  of    dead end  air.   probably need to keep that part vertical.   Make it  about   double the size of  the  line..    3/4 inch  should do it.

Edited January 29, 201510 yr by rancherman

i was just reading over the isspro documentation,

for model years 1994-1998 if using
mechanical lift pump, add a needle valve (R7742), followed by 24” minimum of compatible hose
such as grease gun hose (may require female female coupler), then the sensor. Tighten the needle valve fully then open it ~1/8 -turn. If gauge oscillation is still evident, add either a 2 nd needle valve (R7742) or a snubber (R7800) between the hose and the sensor.

 

I can see this being an issue with a mechanical lift pump, after all at idle its pulsing at a rate of 400 pulses a min,
 

Cummins 1998.5-2002
– Injection pump oscillations may require the
addition of a needle valve (R7742)
between the fuel system and the sensor, start with it adjusted at 1/8
-
turn open.
If using a stock fuel
filter canister, install the sensor &/or needle valve with a tapped banjo bolt (R7743) at the filter end
of the main s
upply line from the filter to the VP44 injection pump.

 

 

i dont see this as much of and issue with the steady supply from a rotary pump. tho i do see the IP oscillations. but its not to the point it will interfere with an accurate pressure reading

 

I've heard too that the isspro sending unit is stout enough to withstand the pulses. I think WildandFree told me he is running isspro w/o snubber.

edit: has anyone tried to just use an airlock... like used in household plumbing. It'd be tee'd into the line, and the sensor would be on THAT line, and BEYOND the sensor would be 6-8 inches of dead end air. probably need to keep that part vertical. Make it about double the size of the line.. 3/4 inch should do it.

I don't see why not, needle valve is just as simple though. And you can shut it of In case of leak or work that might need to be done.

I've heard  too that the isspro  sending unit   is  stout enough  to withstand  the  pulses.     I think    WildandFree   told me  he  is   running  isspro  w/o   snubber.

 

edit:  has  anyone  tried to  just use  an airlock...  like  used  in  household  plumbing.      It'd  be   tee'd  into the  line,  and  the sensor  would  be  on THAT  line,  and   BEYOND  the sensor  would  be   6-8 inches  of    dead end  air.   probably need to keep that part vertical.   Make it  about   double the size of  the  line..    3/4 inch  should do it.

 

I don't see why not, needle valve is just as simple though. And you can shut it of In case of leak or work that might need to be done.

there is that advantage, question, which needle valve are you using?

I got mine from local custom hose, they had a cheap Chinese and a good looking quality made in USA ( the one I got ) I don't have any part numbers as the guys down there just go to their shelf and grab it of box.

Edited January 29, 201510 yr by Dieselfuture

ok,, cool, thanks, the seals our holding up? I ask cause i had a valve like that controlling the #2 diesel to the burner on my model boiler,  it started leaking around the stem in about four years of use.

 

EDIT, i will add the firing valve was far from a statically set valve

Edited January 29, 201510 yr by cbrew

ok,, cool, thanks, the seals our holding up? I ask cause i had a valve like that controlling the #2 diesel to the burner on my model boiler, it started leaking around the stem in about four years of use.

EDIT, i will add the firing valve was far from a statically set valve

I'm not even sure if it's rated for fuel, guys thought it would be fine, they aren't much money, I can afford changing them every five years.

. That's why you only crack needle valve barely open, even on start up it will take a few seconds to rise to proper reading, but if you don't have needle valve it's almost instant. Think of it as a 12" water main in front of your house and you only have 3/4 or 1" line coming to your house. Let's say there is a fire few blocks away and fire department needs water, they hook up to a hydrant.

 

 

And pumpers use that very same valve to dampen gauge pulses.      

I just installed an ISSPRO fuel pressure gauge. I have 1/2" fuel line running right to the VP44 and tapped into that with a 1/2 to 1/2 to 1/8 push lock fitting. From there I ran a small stainless steel braided line to a isolator mounted on the firewall. The top half of the isolator is filled with coolant which then runs through a tiny plastic line to the gauge. Isolator and gauge came together in a 3 gauge kit I ordered.

I just installed an ISSPRO fuel pressure gauge. I have 1/2" fuel line running right to the VP44 and tapped into that with a 1/2 to 1/2 to 1/8 push lock fitting. From there I ran a small stainless steel braided line to a isolator mounted on the firewall. The top half of the isolator is filled with coolant which then runs through a tiny plastic line to the gauge. Isolator and gauge came together in a 3 gauge kit I ordered.

 

Very similar to how I ran mine, only I installed a Vulcan brass hose line tap fitting before the OEM fuel filter and ran a 3/8" line up to a fuel isolator and then to the guage.  I think the lines and fuel isolator provide enough of a buffer that no snubber or anything similar is needed. 

ok,, cool, thanks, the seals our holding up? I ask cause i had a valve like that controlling the #2 diesel to the burner on my model boiler,  it started leaking around the stem in about four years of use.

 

EDIT, i will add the firing valve was far from a statically set valve

seeing you are a  modeler,  you probably know you can  tighten up the packing nut-  when  the   stem  starts  leaking.   (it's probably  the material they use for the packing  "not  diesel  compatible")   Needs to be  at least  Nitrile. 

I  wonder if its    an  o ring,  or  if it's   just  a  very short section of  rubber tube 

seeing you are a  modeler,  you probably know you can  tighten up the packing nut-  when  the   stem  starts  leaking.   (it's probably  the material they use for the packing  "not  diesel  compatible")   Needs to be  at least  Nitrile. 

I  wonder if its    an  o ring,  or  if it's   just  a  very short section of  rubber tube 

haha,, it was not a loose packing nut, the rubber packing was breaking down, heck i may even still have the valve in a junk bucket. its just an example using a valve that is not designed for the intended use. that is why i threw it on the table. if the seal was to break down to that point with 20 psi behind it, it would make a mess in short order. this was leaking from 12 " inches of head pressure.