For all you guys that run tuners, I`m just curious what, if any MPG gains could be expected by adding a tuner to a completely stock truck?

For now, I rarely tow anything worth mentioning with my 03.. At 160K I feel like I need to make some transmission upgrades before I try to load it up.

 

I`m just wondering if the MPG gains alone would be worth the investment?

The biggest way to improve mileage is to drive like you have an egg under your pedal. Honestly you could do the same thing to a dozen pickups and they all would do different mpgs.

The biggest way to improve mileage is to drive like you have an egg under your pedal. Honestly you could do the same thing to a dozen pickups and they all would do different mpgs.

Thats kind of what I thought , but I hear different people talking about the "economy tune" and I`m wondering what the actual results have been?

 

I have never hand calculated, but according to the heads up.. Highway running 55-65 MPH I can eek out 20MPG . the vast majority of my driving I think would be considered City, which generally runs around 17 average.

Edited November 26, 201410 yr by angus

The overhead is probably 20% optimistic. It's horribly erroneous and I would hand calc to check your mileage.

 

With good driving a Smarty should get you 10-15% better economy, but it's always hard to say.

I have a guy telling me his 3500 DRW actually performs better with his economy tune vs stock, and he gets the increase in MPG ?? Sounds too good to be true.

Like AH64ID has shown in the past the stock ECM tends to be retarded in timing for the most part.

Absolutely Any tune should run better than stock.. part of the reason that some people don't see an increase in mileage, they are having too much fun.

Do you think the S-06 POD would be a good investment for tinkering with mild tunes, and still have the capability to make some aggressive changes later as the budget permits?

If you have the budget I would look at the smarty touch

S-06 with gauges or the Touch will do what you want.

I`m seeing the S-06 for $685, the touch for $965, and the touch w/EGT probe for $1,120.. I take it the touch w/EGT can monitor about everything but LP pressure, or trans temp?

Sounds like about break even when considering the cost and time/labor of installing separate gages.

i have an early 04 all stock. 265-70-17 goodyear wrengler tires at 45 PSI.  i've driven with the smarty on about every level and adjustment i can think of.  i have the best MPG with the stock ECM tuning. with the smarty i see 17 average between 15 tanks of fuel. on stock unprogrammed i see 20 on 13 tanks of fuel.

i drive with a very very light foot. never exceed 70 mph.

these are my finding at 7000 ft. in flagstaff AZ.

45 psi in the fronts too? That is dangerously low for 70 mph, or even 45 mph. That might give you 4Klbs of support and your front end is going to be closer to 5K.

Are you going off the overhead? 20 at 70 seems a little high, but maybe?

Smarty SW7 timing 2 torque 1 rail pressure 1. Give that a try for mileage only, do not play with the power unless you want to buy a transmission.

i never use the overhead, all my MPG's are hand calculated. although the over head is only ever off by 1 mpg.

 

as for the tires being at 45. i was wearing the centers of the tires out faster at 50+ so 45 seems to be the ideal spot for these tires. Yes i air them up when towing.

 

thanks for the Smarty info i'll go try it after this tank.

45 psi in the fronts too? That is dangerously low for 70 mph, or even 45 mph. That might give you 4Klbs of support and your front end is going to be closer to 5K.

Are you going off the overhead? 20 at 70 seems a little high, but maybe?

Smarty SW7 timing 2 torque 1 rail pressure 1. Give that a try for mileage only, do not play with the power unless you want to buy a transmission.

 

I tend to agree with AH64ID on the front tire pressures. Everything math wise at least for 4,400 pounds typically put you up around 55-65 PSI. It might also account for the lower MPG numbers being you pushing the front axle more so.

i have an early 04 all stock. 265-70-17 goodyear wrengler tires at 45 PSI.  i've driven with the smarty on about every level and adjustment i can think of.  i have the best MPG with the stock ECM tuning. with the smarty i see 17 average between 15 tanks of fuel. on stock unprogrammed i see 20 on 13 tanks of fuel.

i drive with a very very light foot. never exceed 70 mph.

these are my finding at 7000 ft. in flagstaff AZ.

 

All the different parameters are all greek to me. How does your stock truck respond to SW1 30hp or SW3 60hp ?? Is that actually 30-60hp in the seat of your pants or is there another parameter adjustment... PoD is a little confusing

All the different parameters are all greek to me. How does your stock truck respond to SW1 30hp or SW3 60hp ?? Is that actually 30-60hp in the seat of your pants or is there another parameter adjustment... PoD is a little confusing

i'm not really the one to ask on that. i see very little difference in the different levels. yes you can make it more responsive. i don't think i feel much of a difference in the SW1 or SW3. maybe on a track or a dyno. this is one of the reasons i'm thinking i'm going to sell my smarty. as i don't really see the need to keep it.

i'm going to try the settings AH64ID suggested and see if i get more MPG's, if not then itll be for sale.

 

i found i like my truck on SW5, torque 3, timing 3, RP 0, those settings gave me 18 MPG's on average over the 10 or so tanks of fuel. and very responsive. but i wife hated driving the truck back from races. my truck stock has plenty of power to tow my 12K 5er.

 

i don't use the POD.

i'm not really the one to ask on that. i see very little difference in the different levels. yes you can make it more responsive. i don't think i feel much of a difference in the SW1 or SW3. maybe on a track or a dyno. this is one of the reasons i'm thinking i'm going to sell my smarty. as i don't really see the need to keep it.

i'm going to try the settings AH64ID suggested and see if i get more MPG's, if not then itll be for sale.

 

i found i like my truck on SW5, torque 3, timing 3, RP 0, those settings gave me 18 MPG's on average over the 10 or so tanks of fuel. and very responsive. but i wife hated driving the truck back from races. my truck stock has plenty of power to tow my 12K 5er.

 

i don't use the POD.

 

SW5  with POD @99 should equate to 90hp and then you can adjust the power level down from there.. Is that how it works?? sorry for all the questions.

i'm not sure to be honest. some one told me that the pod will still fuel 100 % down low i think it was.  i would message AH64ID and see what his thoughts are or Biran @ smarty i think is the name.

when you program your truck, when it asks to adjust options is when you change to the TQ, TM, RP settings. then choose a SW #. and your set.

as for the tires being at 45. i was wearing the centers of the tires out faster at 50+ so 45 seems to be the ideal spot for these tires. Yes i air them up when towing.

 

You shouldn't be wearing the centers of the front out at 50-55, and you really need to bump it up to 60ish to be safe to travel at highway speeds. 45 on the fronts of a CTD with LRE 265/70R17 will eventually lead to an overheated and blown out tire. I would run 60 front and 45 rear.

 

 

All the different parameters are all greek to me. How does your stock truck respond to SW1 30hp or SW3 60hp ?? Is that actually 30-60hp in the seat of your pants or is there another parameter adjustment... PoD is a little confusing

 

It's a 30 or 60 or etc rwhp (rear wheel horsepower) gain on a dyno.

 

 

SW5  with POD @99 should equate to 90hp and then you can adjust the power level down from there.. Is that how it works?? sorry for all the questions.

 

 

i'm not sure to be honest. some one told me that the pod will still fuel 100 % down low i think it was.  i would message AH64ID and see what his thoughts are or Biran @ smarty i think is the name.

when you program your truck, when it asks to adjust options is when you change to the TQ, TM, RP settings. then choose a SW #. and your set.

 

PoD effects the throttle input. Best example is PoD 50. The throttle is 50% as sensitive as PoD, and WOT at PoD 50 is like 50% throttle at PoD99.

 

100% of mid range power can still be had above PoD75, with PoD 85 100% of the power thru 3000 can still be had. I run PoD85 all the time, because I like the pedal feel better.

 

With an auto trans you cannot go much lower than PoD90 before you start effecting shift points, but PoD 90 is good for softer starts.

You shouldn't be wearing the centers of the front out at 50-55, and you really need to bump it up to 60ish to be safe to travel at highway speeds. 45 on the fronts of a CTD with LRE 265/70R17 will eventually lead to an overheated and blown out tire. I would run 60 front and 45 rear.

 

 

 

It's a 30 or 60 or etc rwhp (rear wheel horsepower) gain on a dyno.

 

 

 

 

 

PoD effects the throttle input. Best example is PoD 50. The throttle is 50% as sensitive as PoD, and WOT at PoD 50 is like 50% throttle at PoD99.

 

100% of mid range power can still be had above PoD75, with PoD 85 100% of the power thru 3000 can still be had. I run PoD85 all the time, because I like the pedal feel better.

 

With an auto trans you cannot go much lower than PoD90 before you start effecting shift points, but PoD 90 is good for softer starts.

 

John,

I know there is probably no way to answer all the questions until a guy just hooks one up and starts playing with it.

 

But, If you went with say SW 5 and POD @ 50.. then you turned the POD up to 99. What would be the noticable difference?

When you say throttle sensitivity, are you saying it changes the powerband .

 

For example one guy wants all the pwer he can get off idle vs A guy who wants to leave soft and make more power in the midrange.?