Anyone running these guages? A buddy of mine just boughta 01 Cummins and hadn't a clue about the VP issues, I told him to get a guage on soon as he could. He sent me a link to these asking an opinion. I was wondering if a three set up of fuel, boost and pyro comes with everything as in probes etc that you need? http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/98-02-dodge-ram-w-speaker-custom-gauge-package.aspx

Glow shift are good gauge from what I've been told but you must protect the fuel pressure sensor with a snubber or needle valve...

I have been looking at them myself, and some of them are very slim, and may allow for in dash or surface mounting on my FL. I asked the vendors for a quote. But now I might go that direction? Just wondering how thin are the isspro EV2 gauges? I am not really looking forward to a bank of gauges across the dash board.

I bought a there fuel pressure guage and sender. first one lasted about a month. they sent a new sender with no problem . now about 3000 miles later sender is bad again. My sender is snubbed and on a foot long isolator. the guage itself is super and there boost guage has worked flawlessly. I am going to mechanical for fuel pressure guage

Thanks for that budvoss. I was wondering about the electric sender for fuel pressure wondering how good it would be. I didn't realize they had a mechanical gauge, must've just missed it. I'll have to take another look at their site.

Hey,What ever you do, make sure you run needle valve on the fuel pressure gauge!!I've heard good things about those gauges so they should be fine!! My Autometers works good too!!:thumb1:Later,Winslow

So if I order I was thinking of the 30psi fuel gauge, 60 psi boost and not sure of the EGT...1500* F or 2400* F. Recommendations ? Probably could get away just ordering the fuel and boost but by the time i add a two gauge pillar to them it's only a bit more to add the EGT and a three pillarI'm thinking I soon have to order something because people are starting to make fun of my $15 fuel pressure gauge on my steering column...held on by electrical tape

1500*F is more than enough... Aluminum pistons melt at ~1,280*F without cooling... But most of use have pulled a few 1,400 to 1,500*F runs but short lived... Remember the stock turbo is only good for 35 PSI... Head gasket is only good to about 40-45 PSI...

So if I order I was thinking of the 30psi fuel gauge, 60 psi boost and not sure of the EGT...1500* F or 2400* F. Recommendations ? Probably could get away just ordering the fuel and boost but by the time i add a two gauge pillar to them it's only a bit more to add the EGT and a three pillar I'm thinking I soon have to order something because people are starting to make fun of my $15 fuel pressure gauge on my steering column...held on by electrical tape

Hey, I would defiantly go with the pyrometer too!!! I would think 1500* would be plenty!! Mine goes up to 2000+, but that's b/c they were already in the truck!! Later, Winslow

I do run a needle valve and still have the problem come back. I cant recommend the gauge any more after my second sender going bad. I dont think glowshif makes a mechanical gauge

Make sure the needle valve is barely cracked open. Seat it closed and barely nudge it open the needle should rise up slowly...(1-2 sec to get to 15 PSI) If its rises fast nudge the valve closed more.

Make sure the needle valve is barely cracked open. Seat it closed and barely nudge it open the needle should rise up slowly...(1-2 sec to get to 15 PSI) If its rises fast nudge the valve closed more.

What kind of needle valve are you using? I assume the diaphragm in the sender is getting too much movement?

Hey,Thought I would edit my previous post. My Autometer goes to 1600* and I've never been close!!!:thumb1:Later,Winslow

What kind of needle valve are you using? I assume the diaphragm in the sender is getting too much movement?

Here is what I'm using...

Then my old stock install... (Bottom of the filter housing)

Study up on water hammering...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_hammer

This is what happens everytime the VP44 is fired is a water hammer. The valve opensd rapidly drawing in fuel for pumping (VP44) then rapidily closes off...

glow shift is going to send me another sending unit, will try it again. they have been good by backing up the sender. I also ordered a separate 100 psi sender just to to try lol mopar man i like your set except for the nylon line. lol I personally don't trust it. I always went with copper I pretty much have the same setup. will try your recommendation on needle valve adjustment on new sender.

glow shift is going to send me another sending unit, will try it again. they have been good by backing up the sender. I also ordered a separate 100 psi sender just to to try lol

mopar man i like your set except for the nylon line. lol I personally don't trust it. I always went with copper I pretty much have the same setup. will try your recommendation on needle valve adjustment on new sender.

Copper tubing is known for failure because of all the vibration they been know to break under the hood...

As for my old line it last 6 years without much problems (unless I broke it off pushing on it) but the new stuff I'm using polyon air brake line is nearly instructable now... I've got a chunk on my desk I've been playing with folding and bending and it just doesn't fail...

Remember the phrase... "Dodge makes it Cummins Shakes it!"

have the new sender and will set the valve like u suggest . thanks for the tip

I would stay away from the copper tubing as well. Had it in my 68 Chevelle SS 396 for awhile. It would always break. Like Mike says, the vibrations wreak havoc on it.

well guys sorry but i dont belive in any poly line that carries fuel. Ive use soft copper in many aplacations and no failures. Also just for some info NHRA will not approve any poly fuel pressure line inless it is reinforced with steel braid. Gassermore for more info i ran a 555 with a f2 procharger that made 1200 hp and 1000 ft lbs tq in an olds that was certified to 7.50 and soft copper approved for pressure