Is there a torque sequence and value for putting the auto tranny pan back on after servicing? Thanks.

No torque sequence seen in the book but the torque value is 13 Ft/Lbs for the pan... Then 35 In/Lbs for the filter screws. Hope that helps...

Yes it does help. Many thanks.

One more thing, my FSM calls for ATF+3 (47RE), but your website calls for ATF+4. Is there any harm in moving up to +4? I know this has been covered but can't search right now, as have to head out to auto parts store for some fluid. Thanks again.

I searched around and +4 is a higher quality +3 basically. It is more thermally stable. It is fine to run either one, +4 is more of an "update" to +3.Eh, more I read, the more they say use +4. Some say either one some say definitely use +4. So +4 sounds like what you need.

Sounds good, thanks for the quick response.

I believe they don't make the "3" anymore. Wen I went to change my fluid that is what I was told. But that was from a tech at AutoZone!

I believe they don't make the "3" anymore. Wen I went to change my fluid that is what I was told. But that was from a tech at AutoZone!

those guys at autozone/orielly's don't know nothing other than what they own. just a couple of days ago, an autozone tech told me that ford owned cummins. i tried to explain that they only bought a small % of stock, which they no longer own! but you know that someone who's uncle's cousin's father-in-law had a cummins knows everything about them. as far as the ATF3 and ATF4. i recently saw a comparison between those and dex and merc. the ATF3 and 4 blew those 2 out of the water on lube after shearing. 4 is designed to be backwards compatible...meaning if it took 3 than 4 is ok. ATF4 last longer than ATF3 and often can go longer drain intervals(because it doesn't wearout as fast from shearing). i will try to find article for you guys

It true that ATF+4 is better fluid over the older +3 version. If you look around the +3 is still available in most stores. Matter of fact I've got 10 gallons of ATF+3 sitting in the garage in 5 gallon buckets... (Transfer case on my truck and A/T on mom's truck)

I finally got around to my tranny fluid/filter yesterday with ATF+4. Just a quick question, Mike's website states 4 quarts for the capacity, but the alldatadiy.com website calls for 14 quarts, which I know is way too high. However, with just 4 quarts after my refill, it did read a little low when I checked it. Just curious. On a side note, I tapped a drain plug from Geno's into the pan, and very happy I did for the next time. I made minimal mess without the drain plug, but probably just got lucky, but nonetheless a pain waiting for it all to spill over into the drain container.

Mike's website states 4 quarts for the capacity, but the alldatadiy.com website calls for 14 quarts, which I know is way too high.

So your saying that my page is close to correct amount? (Verifying data)

Yours seems correct; I'm just curious why the alldatadiy website calls for 14 quarts, as that would seem to be way too high. All the other stuff on alldata has been right in line with the FSM, so kind of bothered that they call for 14 quarts on a tranny which is subject to the effects of overfilling/aeration, and all the trouble that comes with it.

Could it have been pints ?

No, it's not pints. I just drove out to work and back today with a total of 5 quarts I put in, and she's still reading mid-way on the dipstick, so put another quart in. Perhaps yesterday when I drained it, more fluid drained out than normal. I don't know. I do know I don't want to overfill it, but definitely want the appropriate amount of fluid in there. The guy at autozone told me that the 14 quart capacity is for a complete flush of the system, which I definitely didn't do yesterday.

that info from alldata is probably if you have a new trans/torque converter and it has no fluid. on a drain and fill, you usually don't empty the torque converter at all. i had seen a similar amount for my parents nissan maxima. and when my buddy rebuilt his 4l60-e, he was buying trans fluid by the pail.

That makes sense. But my question still remains, how come when I refilled after a simple drain/fill/filter it's needing more than 4 quarts? All I did was drain the pan including pulling the pan as I didn't have a drain plug installed yet, and replaced the filter. I do know that when I drained it, it seemed like more than 4 quarts drained out, but I didn't measure it. Is it possible that more than normal drained out of the entire assembly without doing a flush? Thanks.

from what i understand....when the truck sits, some of the fluid in the torque converter drains back into the pan. or the trans could have been "over full". i wouldn't worry about it to much, unless the fluid is dark or if you have to keep adding fluid. i have always filled based off the dip stick. just my

I have all the stuff to change my tranny oil and just wondering about flushing lines, draining torq, (if possible) etc. My question is if I just drain the pan what about all the other old oil in the system to contaminate the new?

I have all the stuff to change my tranny oil and just wondering about flushing lines, draining torq, (if possible) etc. My question is if I just drain the pan what about all the other old oil in the system to contaminate the new?

i would think it would be come contaminated...but i think thats why most manufactures want drain intervals at 24k-30k. i often hear about people going 10s of thousands even 100k before they do that maintence...but those same people go buy a new car/truck when the trans craps. i don't know a whole lot about autos...but did help a friend rebuild a 4l60-e.(read my sig if you want my opinion) i think some places have a BG flush machine. my understanding is that it hooks up to the hoses and pumps the old out and the new in. i hear alot of people say that a drain and fill at 200k will usually wash what little fictions are left and causes slipping(thats why the freind had to rebuild that 4l60-e). you could pull the trans and drain the torque convertor...just try to put as much fluid as possible in the torque converter before you bolt it up(it will leak while your bolting and stabbing)

Using a flush machine when doing a change is not good for our autos. It will put crap into places that you don't want them to be! Best thing to do is to drop the pan, change the filter, install the pan, fill the tranny up with about 8 qts, then remove the line from the tranny to the cooler, (furthest one back on the tranny on the left side). Start the truck up put it in nuetral and let the fluid come out, when it clears up, then tighten everything up and fill the tranny back upto the required amount. I asked this same question on another site and did a poll on it as well. Results were NO on the tranny flush! This is how I did my tranny.

Using a flush machine when doing a change is not good for our autos. It will put crap into places that you don't want them to be! Best thing to do is to drop the pan, change the filter, install the pan, fill the tranny up with about 8 qts, then remove the line from the tranny to the cooler, (furthest one back on the tranny on the left side). Start the truck up put it in nuetral and let the fluid come out, when it clears up, then tighten everything up and fill the tranny back upto the required amount. I asked this same question on another site and did a poll on it as well. Results were NO on the tranny flush! This is how I did my tranny.

I like that I dea... At least your purging the rest of the system out and clearing the rest of the system of old fluid and getting a fresh start. (Good idea!)