Need Help Asap With Airdog

[Ltk]

hey guys, i have an airdog 2 150 gph pump on my truck.

 

yesterday when driving my fuel pressure all of a sudden hit 0 and i continued to drive home because it wasnt acting funny. when i shut it off and turned key back to run position, the pump wont kick on. ive tried everything i can think of. i traced the ground and hot wires as good as i could without a test light. i made sure they had good clean connection. (dropped my test light on the walk from the building to the truck and broke it of course)

 

i couldnt test the relays, and dont even know where to begin and what to begin looking at because i did not hook this pump up. i dont know which relays or fuses or whatever the pump connects through, anything like that.

 

i am showing error codes P PCU, P0500, P0462, and P1693. all unrelated id assume.

 

can someone please explain to me how to figure out if that pump is burnt out or not. if it is i need it replaced like 3 hours ago. college is starting back, i cant get to work, im at a loss for ideas. anyone that can take the time to help me, i can pay you some money for the time

 

thanks guys, 

 

Logan

[rancherman]

you'll  have to establish  if you definitely have  12 volts to the pump  when it's supposed to be there.   Do this at the closest   plug to the pump,  or even   stab the wires  right at the  motor itself.    

 

Then,  if you do have  12 volts,    make sure  you have  a  good ground   for the return side of the circuit...      If  you do,   then   ya got  motor troubles.      

If  no  voltage,  check your    relays/fuses  (both   dodge  and  airdog  supplied)    plus  (I think you already  made sure,  but  check your wiring along the way)

[Ltk]

theres one little plug about 1/2 inch wide that is 6 inches from the pump. can i unplug it and stick 1 end of the meter into one, and 1 end into the other, or is there a proper way? and by stabbing wires what exactly do you mean

also one last thing, which relays/fuses will this pump be connected to?

[AGPTurbo]

Hey bud, I'm new to the Cummins thing here but what you need is some basic troubleshooting. Take apart the plug you see, its a basic 12v system no matter what the plug.  Put one end of the test lamp/ multimeter into one side and the other into the opposite side. You should get 11+ volts if the truck is off. Try with the key in the start position, but don't run it while you are under it.  If you don't get the voltage, test one side of the lead at a time with the other end of your test equipment to a good ground. Still no power? Make a jumper to bypass whatever relay someone has in there by getting a good length of insulated wire and jump power straight from the battery to the pump. At least get this far so the guys with similar equipment can walk you through.

Good Luck

AP

[dripley]

If the AD was wired with the supplied harness and by the instructions, the relay and the fuse sill mounted on the firewall on the driver side. 

You can see them both to the left of the clutch reservoir. The fuse is on the left and the relay on the right. 

 

 

 

If it is wired per the instructions to the original harness for the OE pump, there will be no power to the pump unless you turn the key on and bump the starter(no engine start) and then for only about 25 seconds. You can pull the harness from the pump and check for 12v there, but only after bumping the starter. Might need a helper unless you are quick . The only time you have constant 12v at the pump is when the engine is running.  

Edited January 13, 2014 by dripley

[Ltk]

i will test these things tomorrow, then post my observations! thank you guys

dripley, did you mean to the right of the clutch reservoir? 

[diesel4life]

i will test these things tomorrow, then post my observations! thank you guys

dripley, did you mean to the right of the clutch reservoir?

Yes, fuse and relay Is to the right. You should hear the relay click when you cycle the key on/off.

[hex0rz]

Believe it or not, the vp44 will make the truck run whether or not there is fuel pressure. It will suck the fuel like a vacuum, but this causes wear and damage.

 

I suspect you have the in-between design of the AD pump. I'm betting the pump motor went out, just like mine.

 

First, trace the wiring harness back from the pump to the source of power. It should be connected to one of the battery terminals if done right. Inline, their should be a fuse on the power wire. No more than 18 inches from the battery post. If the fuse is blown, replace it with the proper amperage fuse. If the fuse blows again, then more than likely your pump has burnt up. In which case, hopefully you have a warranty card sent in to get a new pump.

 

If you find that the fuse or wiring checks out, disconnect the wire harness plug at the pump and connect 12v power to the plug to the pump. This will tell you if your pump is working or not. If it is not, then refer to like above. If it does work, then its somewhere in the wiring that needs troubleshooted.

 

Check the harness to make sure that it is in working order. Fuses, connections properly made, no corrosion, ground is good, and the plug that connects to the ECM is solid.

[dripley]

Yes,it is to the right and not the left. The power for the pump can also come from the alternator. It was an alternate source of power listed in the instructions. That is how I connected mine. 

[Ltk]

i did not notice a fuse inline anywhere in the wiring all the way back. it seems the pump is wired directly to the battery. straight to both terminals. from what i could tell while lying under there. i hear clicking when turning key, not the pump. before this happened, just turning the key to run would make the pump "growl", i didnt have to bump the starter to hear it

[hex0rz]

http://www.pureflowairdog.com/troubleshooting.php#pump-quit

 

http://www.pureflowairdog.com/manuals/A4SPBD001.pdf

 

http://www.pureflowairdog.com/manuals/5E-2-011%20Rev.%20E.pdf

 

Try these out as well..

[Mopar1973Man]

Ok. So verify there is power here at the yellow/white and black/white connectors. You'll need need to bump the stater to get power flowing for this plug. The first key on pump bump doesn't matter nor does it mean anything. It after the ECM sees crank signal and what it does after that.

 

[mopartechnician]

Power at yel/wht. Ground at blk/wht

[Mopar1973Man]

G107 is located behind the starter and bolted to the block of the engine you can't visually see this ground till you remove the starter.

[Ltk]

well i found the problem.. 

 

 

 

this fuse wasnt bolted to the cab beside the relay, it was zip tied about 8 inches below that. after 30 minutes of fighting with brake lines in the way and arms that dont bend correctly, i got it out 

 

okay so i guess now my questions are:

 

what causes the current to increase, resulting in blowing this fuse? 

 

does this 100% mean the pump is suiciding, or could it just be a freak accident?

 

school me! please, and thank you for all the help!!   you guys rock

[mopartechnician]

They had a bunch of bad pumps where some idiot decided to try a new seal design. Well it ended up allowing fuel to get up into the pump. If it pops again, call airdog and see if they will warranty it. Alsp could be junk in the gears but i would doubt that with it being an airdog and debris having to go through the w/s first.

[Ltk]

so could it just be a 1 time occurrence of it blowing the fuse? im going to drive it until it decides to let go again.

 

anyone thats had this problem, how long did it take for the fuse to blow again after the first time? 

[Ilikeoldfords]

If the fuel has gotten into the pump I would imagine the fuse would probably blow almost right after you turn the key on. If there was some debris in there it may be able to pass through the pump before it pops the fuse again.

[dripley]

Thats possible. Just remember that if that fuse blows and the pump quits running, the VP is pulling fuel on its own. That is not good for the VP at all. The VP is a $1000 part. Carry some spare fuses and if it does go again park until you can fix it properly.

[Ltk]

lets hope it doesnt do it again.. 

 

how much is involved with changing out the pump motor? 

 

im not very mechanically inclined