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Going to try and get it done this weekend. Already off to a bad start. I have been wondering what to do with the 3 connections on the drivers side firewall and decided to get rid of them entirely as some wires in each one just go straight to the fuse box wires and are spliced into it down there, so I am cutting them off and running everything straight up to where they need to go. The problem came when I started tracing out wires and couldn't find a bunch of them on the PCM side. They would be on the fuse box side but not come out on the other side of the connector. Upon closer inspection, dodge actually wires up crap I don't have like a trans relay, but they stop wiring at that connector, the relay is there, the wiring is there but the other side of the connector doesn't even have the contacts in for it. Which means I have a lot of wires going to nothing since I don't have an automatic. I'm ripping them out, relay and all. I have already ripped a lot out, interesting how many wires go to nothing. --- Update to the previous post... Not going to get done this weekend lol. I forget how hard it is to figure out where to run everything. The wires are spliced in bad spots and other wires are just a pain to figure out where to route. I did get rid of a couple relays that I think went to nothing. Got rid of the fuel heater relay as well since my heater contacts are fried. I thought I would get rid of a bunch of wires by running the ones from the 3 big connectors into the fuse box that had been from the PCM, so basically the PCM to fuse box wires. Turns out there are only a few. Got them out of the way. Still got a lot to do. It's been over a month now that I haven't heard that thing start --- Update to the previous post... Figured I would do this for the nonbelievers lol. I will show that all you need to run a 12V is a few seconds of 12v power. I just jammed a wrench into the shutoff solenoid to hold it up. Woulda started faster if my idle wasn't so low, normally I step on the pedal a little. It also hasn't been started in a month. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjyzfZMEMRc

Figured I would give everyone a guide for a 12V that is perfectly powered and efficient and reliable. I am thinking this will get you to around 350-400HP with controllable EGT's. This will give you a truck that doesn't smoke a ton and is very efficient. The catch is that I am not sure if this will work for everyone. My truck has the stock lift pump and I am not sure it is flowing like it used to, though I got a new overflow and it holds at the right pressure so I am thinking it is fine, but it doesn't smoke like it used to. This guide is for someone to try it and see if it actually clears up the smoke, drops the EGT's, and has efficient power, as mine improved little by little as I did each mod. I just want to be sure I'm not delusional Step 1: Get a BHAF. This will improve flow and make the filter media last longer since there is more surface area to get dirty. Step 2: Get a 4" or bigger exhaust either straight piped or with a see-through muffler. Again, this improves flow. Step 3: Get a pyrometer and boost gauge if you haven't already, otherwise you are asking for trouble. Step 4: Set your valves at 0.008" intake and 0.015" exhaust. Only do this if you know exactly how to do it, as this is a tight tolerance and is the minimum setting on exhaust so if you screw it up a lot, you might end up having a valve open the whole time. Typically valves loosen, so if you get it set perfect, you shouldn't ever have a problem. The minimum settings are what they are because valves expand as they heat up so this accounts for expansion. This should make the HX35 spool up better than an HY (after we do AFC mods). Step 5: Get a boost elbow and set it to max out at 35psi (though you will probably max out there with the wastegate stock). This might be a problem as I use something that keeps the wastegate completely shut until 35psi, so I get to 35psi much earlier, but try the elbow anyways as it might work just as well. Step 6: Get a 400HP clutch (or better). If you don't, you might as well stop here. If you have an automatic, get it built up or something (I don't know anything about the auto's but I know the stock one's don't hold up). Step 7: Take the AFC arm out of the AFC housing, taking the AFC out of the picture (since the arm is out of the picture). This will leave the fueling up to your foot, which is nice. Step 8: Take the fuel plate out. Again this leaves fueling up to your foot but also provides max fueling. I would like to have someone with a 215HP 12V do this setup and see what happens. They should have only a haze or slight amount of smoke (after the turbo lights) and the EGT's should be much harder to get over 1200F. The turbo should light extremely quick as well. There are some other things I did that might have made a difference as well but I don't know if anyone would go that far: [*]Remove the Fan [*]Remove the Fan Shroud (this means doing something with the overflow and wiper fluid) I think taking the shroud off allowed the air to free flow through the intercooler more since it isn't running into the shroud on the sides, giving lower IAT temps under high boost conditions (when your getting near 1200F). Here is the part you must know and is key to success. With no AFC and no fuel plate, flooring it means max fuel at any point in time with or without turbo boost. This means you can get a ton of smoke down low before boost is built if you happen to step on it. You must get a feel for the pedal. The rack inside the pump only moves a fraction of what the pedal does. If you get in the truck, turn the key on, bump the starter (don't start it, bumping it engages the shutoff solenoid), and push down on the pedal easily until it gets hard to push (should only go down an inch, maybe less), that is actually full rack travel because the governor flyweights are not fighting you since they are not spinning. You can feel that in the pedal when you step on it, if you can just ride slightly behind that hard spot, it will move dynamically with engine RPM until it is to the floor (3000 RPM). The 215HP pump retards timing (none of the other pumps do) when the rack is all the way in because it has to jam more fuel in to get the higher HP rating. It is 4* retarded IIRC. To keep the engine efficient, you don't want it to be retarded, you want to keep the rack slightly behind that full rack spot so that it isn't retarding timing. If you put it to the floor and then do this method, you will see that the truck is faster when you ride slightly behind the rack. Fuel plates do this for you to an extent but not nearly as good as your foot is capable of doing. There is a reason 24V guys have many different levels. You can adjust your plate constantly, or you can take it out and adjust your foot constantly. After a few weeks (give or take), you will be a pro at it and be able to dynamically control fueling better than any chip can even dream of doing. It will become 2nd nature. You will know when it is going to smoke, when the turbo is going to light, everything and have 100% control over it, not riding some AFC or fuel plate that might not be the power you were wanting for that particular instant. This takes some tedious footwork but is really not that hard. I had one of the two springs fall off the throttle and I can press the pedal to the floor with my pinky. I had to readjust my footwork but after 2 days it was back to being 2nd nature and it's kinda nice not having to press hardly at all. If anyone wants to try this, do everything I said (cept the optional stuff) as they all add up to success, then let me know your results.

Totally normal. Nothing to worry about. It is a void they sit in so a wee bit of condensation is what discolors it. As far as the substance its normal for fittings to have a sealer or locking compound on them when they come from the factory.

Just because of being common to have starting problems I did some digging in the books and gathered up a quick diagnostic list... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/diagnostics/diagnostics.htm

To confirm, it is this thing, called the torque converter inspection plate. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/192928-torque-converter-inspection-plate-questions-47re.html I don't think it will hurt anything (obviously, since you haven't had it in a long time), it just keeps crap out, but you should really get one just incase you end up going through mud or other things that could happen to wreak havoc. Junkyards probably have them. Here's a pic of it missing from that link.

The whole part of this entire thing that I have been questioning is consistency. We have to get hand calculated numbers. It's hard enough knowing how a 24V operates without owning one, getting information that isn't solid just makes it even worse. I would do it myself but I obviously can't. I already have seen a lot of things that don't seem consistent to me in this thread that I have been trying to make sense of but it isn't easy to do. The only solid info I can believe right now is what whitelightning is saying. I think stodg hand calculated and saw a gain but I am not sure if he did that or not. It's inconsistent stuff like this that gets internet phenomenons started. For this thing to work, we have to get solid info to know for sure Here you go txplumbermaster. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1922-Temp-Gauge...?highlight=gauge

There must be something to the fooler and the edge comp that makes it work, but not sure what. Stodg got results with his smarty. Mike, did you ever hand calculate it?