Mopar1973Man

Your welcome.

Transfer case in neutral?

I'll be heading into my 3rd Radiator now. I'm at 500k miles, and the tank gasket on the driver side is leaking. I cut the radiator cap vent disk off, and now the radiator does not hold any pressure, but I've been this way for over 1 year,r even with a 200℉ thermostat, and still have a leaking radiator still. This winter, I'm hoping to be able to replace that radiator.

Wow. Just crazy to have a bad processor.

Some of you might think we are not around. Truth is, we are still working on cleaning up the shop mudslide disaster. Currently, we are down on vehicles, being that Beast just lost a starter, Thor had a random injector failure right at the time of the mudslide. Most of my tools and shop stuff are still buried in the yard. @Tweety Bird is trying to fill my shoes on the website by handling administrative duties. I'm working with the locals here to attempt to get use of a small track hoe and hoping for the return of the skid steer. Shop is still just a mess as we keep sorting materials to dispose of the debris while hunting for tools, parts, or any belongings. We are trying to plan for winter coming which includes getting firewood. Remember, both of my chainsaws are gone in the mudslide. Then I attempted to get both trucks running without a full set of tools and had to drive to friends' places to borrow tools for what I was missing. Currently, both trucks need work to get ready for winter. The crazy part is that I have to find help for the heavy-duty stuff because my cancer / ostomy is preventing me from doing most of this work...lifting restrictions...hernia risk...still building up my strength. Just another note, as for access to the website @Tweety Bird and I am sharing a laptop right now. Her laptop screen got damaged. My main computer finally gave up and the video card isn't rendering the screen correctly. That machine was built a long time ago. To top it off...our cloud server that controls the network here, is giving us backup, and storage and video recording of the security cameras just died too. I'm working on solutions to all these issues.

Ok. I get your wanting to learn why it won't work. Don't make any mods that cannot be returned back from. Like milling the intake off.

Be careful about this design. I still don't suggest this path. I don't think there is many gains to that whole intake system unless you are WOT all the time. I'm still assuming this is a daily driver street truck and not a strict race track truck, correct? Being a highway truck is going to be partial throttle most time. So boost is going to be low majority of the time. EGT can be controlled by timing. If you're looking for cooler temperatures, then you'll be milling the intake off to remove the coolant passage in the bottom. (1/2" pipe plug near the IAT sensor) Which is weird, being I've changed to a 200℉ thermostat from a 6.7L and am using custom timing and able to keep EGTs in check. At least in my design heat is my friend giving me better ignition quality but not over 140℉ intake temp ever even towing. Problem I see is the turbo is going to be hotter nearly 400℉ output temperature heading to the intake without a intercooler to cool the air before entering the engine. This link should help you figure out temperatures. Just https://www.stealth316.com/2-turbotemp.htm IC Efficiency as a zero if your removing the intercooler. IC Efficiency as about 85 percent value forthe stock cooler.

Absolute truth. For me it was that way for many years. Now the last two years have been reactive because of cancer and the lack of being able to work.

Good to hear that it was a turbo that was the cause. Too bad you cored out the old turbo. Rebuilding is easy to do.

I would highly suggest against that idea being manifold temperature could be as high as 400°F without a intercooler. There is a video of a Ford diesel with pre and post intercooler temps 400°F is easy to reach.

NAPA parts ive noticed that NAPA typically will upgrade there part line based on failure rates. I just reported a fuel filter that is not big enough to hold the lid. Look in 3rd Gen for my post about this.

Syco, you are going through a rough patch. It sucks when things fail in that manner. Yeah, you are going to have to make that call again and get it fixed to use your truck. I'm super curious about the test results and what happened.

This was so awesome. I ran into a older couple that shared photos of their son and all the stellar comments. Their son did the whole punk theme, mohawk hair, and in blue green color. Checked out of the store with our groceries to run into Stormy Rose, she is a young artist who started her own version of Goth makeup, very impressive artwork for even her age, super cool interaction.

Sadly, these changes have to happen to protect my standing with Paypal. When members subscribe and then hang out for a time and decide to leave, all you need to do is press the cancel renewal button on your subscription. What happens the member files a complaint that I'm taking their money. This is a red check mark on my account. So to stop this, there are going to be NO REFUNDS for making false claims to Paypal. You must unsubscribe here on the website under the subscription page, and just press the "cancel renewal" button. The subscription will stop. If you don't want to lose funds in this, please unsubscribe properly. Thank you!

Do yourself a favor DO NOT buy a Cummins water pump. Sadly, there are too many people who think Cummins is the best supplier, but actually, they are not updating part design for improvement, but finding a cheaper way to produce the product and charge you Cummins prices. I've dealt with NAPA parts for over 20 years with a low failure rate vs Cummins water pumps and thermostats.

Yeah that's not good. I'm going to say your right on. Getting the truck hot most likely got that head to curl some and just heat and pressure.

Freaking awesome! I've been watching you build that truck for YEARS! I'm dying to see it completed. So freaking close...!!!!

I'm set for 18 to 19 PSI lift pump pressure on Beast for over 400k miles no problems. The VP44 shuts off its most likely the PSG unit died on top of the VP44. Yes it is possible to have a injection pump that has ZERO codes but be brain dead and will not start. Don't let thart little module blow you away. It only controls timing (advancement or retard) then the fuel pin to pull it out to start the enginee and control the fuel amount. There is a bit of diagnostic code in there to produce error codes. There is only the timing solenoid valve to move the timing. Then the solenoid to control the fuel pin.

Basically when you get 300k miles on your Cummins engine typically they develope a condition called head curl. The ends of the head start to lift. This is why the head studs. Now about 300k miles you notice oil usage and that is caused by valve guides allow the valves to wobble which in turn wears the valve stem seals. Drive pressure gauge really doesn't need to be in the cab per se if you can design and test the first time drive pressures shouldn't really change unless other things change. (injectors, tuning, etc). I stayed down around 500 HP for a few reasons. One not willing to give up my exhaust brake yet. Smaller turbos spool faster than larger turbos. Remember the lighter the rotational mass (turbo wheel, tires, driveline, flywheel, Etc.) ther faster it will accelerate. To this day I hunt for oversize tire truck with a lift kit and whip them in a street race because of all the rotational mass. Just food for thought.

Im dying to see the paint job. Im going to be jealous seeing that pretty modified truck. Going to be a sight. 😎

That's good thing. Strange not seeing it wet like ive seen in the past with bad turbos that are either side wet with oil. Get some more miles on that. Go work that Cummins it will thank you.

If you stay to the 3200 redline then you should be safe. 12V engines only had 45 pound valve spring IIRC. 24V valve train is pretty solid 60 pound springs but I would have the guides and seals done for sure. If you boost is still lower than your spring pound rating should be fine. The closer you get boost to the pound rating on the springs more chance of valve floating then remember your drive pressure vs turbo housing size. (Flow...)

Or the nozzle cracked. Then ive heard they can turn into a diesel powered torch pointed at the top of the piston. For the cost of the rebuild engine I'd rather change a wear item like injectors at 100k at the cost of 400 to 600 dollars vs. a engine rebuild. Remember that nozzle goes from dead cold to hot in a very short time being the nozzle living in the combustion chamber. Only lubricant is the fuel (2 cycle oil is bonus lube 128:1 ratio. Just heat cycles can eventually crack a nozzle. I've even seen new injectors nozzles crack in a short time. This is why a little warm up is nice but it still best to get rolling and keep your foot out of the throttle till 170°F coolant this will typically be about 140°F engine oil temperature at least on Beast. If your using cetane booster you might want to stop that. High cetane actually reduces BTU content of the fuel. Some products actually could soot up the nozzles makes for nasty spray patterns. Here is where 2 cycle oil shines it actually keeps the injectors cleaner. Ill dig up the photo. This is 85k miles on my stock injectors. You can clearly see the holes.