Mopar1973Man

Ouch. Dang dude! True backyard me panic congrats to you sir. Yes there are injector pop testers looks like a bottle jack with a high pressure line on top. You'll need the collar for Cummins ISB injector to hook up your injector to the line. Here is a home made testers you can build. Check around there are injector tester out there. https://www.vevor.com/injector-nozzle-tester-c_10329/diesel-injector-nozzle-tester-pop-pressure-quality-dual-scale-gauge-w-filter-p_010783068030?adp=gmc&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_id=13170729522&ad_group=123973570953&ad_id=522794665616&utm_term=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=13170729522&gbraid=0AAAAACq8bLUXF8f0n8A4cSDtb5-6E1BDV&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5ubABhDIARIsAHMighZJAaCPmzZWXF7fSGB7xMYT2jNokKPY8Xea5-F22SfBf5-b8tMthwYaAoCKEALw_wcB

@Tweety Bird and I loaded up into Thor. I've got a medical visit here in Nampa to see about saving my right kidney. Thor is going be helping us relocate tweety bird to my nest. Yup, she is moving out and in with me. As for the trip down Thor ran great. Very smooth ride and good power till you build a little bit too much boost... P0234 code. Funny. Pull over erase the error code and continued down the road. Now comparing the previous MPG to now. 4 MPG gain. Still remember I've got blow by issues. Another long run.

Do you have a local diesel shop that can test your injectors popped pressure settings. I know factory is 310 bar but many rebuilders tend to cheat and drop the pop pressure attempting to add duration to the injection event. Typically here in the US is about 15 dollars per injector to be tested and reset the pop pressure properly. Again just a thought?

Just a passing thought? What have the injectors been pop too? Typically the stock injectors are 4500 psi or 310 bar. Now if a injector is popped too low say around 290 bar it may create a possible stalling issues. Remember for every 10 bar you go down from 310 bar you are adding 1 degree of advancement to the fuel timing. Understanding this i opted for 320 bar 7x0.010 on Beast. Slightly retarded but I can make up for that in my Quadzilla tuner.

Thanks, @IBMobile I'll keep that in mind...

I would suggest a AirDog 150. I just got done with a custom install on Thor. https://mopar1973man.com/blogs/entry/18-the-stealth-airdog-on-a-3rd-gen/

I moved @jeremyf9806 started as a PM to me and I'm trying to jump start him on the website for help. I marked up his post to help out a bit. He is trying to figure out the stalling issue on the free rev of the engine. I've suggested checking the valve lash and any electrical between the ECM and VP44 for a basic ohm test just to verify.

To continue this thread and bring it to the top for viewing. Thor does have some blowby and I've checked a few times its not horrid but enough to push oil out of the rear seal now. I'm looking at the Harbor Freight master compression tester for diesel. Suppose to cover Dodge / Cummins. Cummins, Dodge, Ford, GM, GMC, Hino, Hummer, International, Isuzu, Land Rover, Navistar, Nissan, Sprinter, Audi, BMW, Jeep, Lincoln, Mazda, Mercedes-Benz, Mitsubishi, Peugeot, Toyota, and Volvo Dual scale gauge, 16-1/2 in. hose, 7 in. extension, Glow plug adapters: M8 x 1.0, (2) M10 x 1.0, (3) M10 x 1.25, (2) M18 x 1.5, Glow plug hose adapters: M10 x 1.0, M14 x 1.25, Injector and other adapters: 1/2-20 UNF, 5.9L 24 valve adapter, M20 x 1.5, M22

Hey gang, I'm going to start asking around of anyone has a compression tester for a Cummins? What brand name did you get? How about the injector adapter? Where did you get the injector adapter at? Thor, I'm now really suspecting there are ring issues coming at me. Yeah Great! (roll eyes). Sadly, I'm getting things done in repairing Thor so we can get @Tweety Bird moved out of her place in Nampa, ID. For now, I'm going to use Thor, but yeah, cold morning, it seems like there is a rough off-beat miss now. I know I'm going to have to do piston rings at a bare minimum. I've got enough blow by now that the cap dances pretty well. The truck runs really wel and has plenty of power to move down the pavement. Performance-wise wise its not hurting for power at all. I know those rings have taken some wear now.

Yeah, Thor is in rough shape. The interior is well-worn and dirty from two years of my using it as a service truck. Now, Thor is becoming the next article truck for the website. I've got a Mopar1973Man banner already pulled out for the truck's rear window. Then, Thor's first task is going to be hauling a full load of scrap metal to Lewiston, Idaho. Thor is going to provide all the 3rd Generation articles we need. I'm currently writing an article for the AirDog 150 fuel system I'm installing. I'm going to go back and build an article on the Boost and Pyrometer I installed for the previous owner. Thor is going to be my next bad boy truck that Mopar1973Man.Com knows how to build. After the lewiston trip is done then I've got a few trips down to @Tweety Bird place to finish moving her out of her place in Nampa, Idaho. Thor is going to be used quite a bit and doing a lot of heavy hauling. In my chat with @Tweety Bird I remembered I had the phone number of the second previous owner of Thor and sent him a text message. He's sad to see the winch bumper and the flat bed go away. By the time I'm done, Bradon might want that truck back after cleaning it up and getting all the problems ironed out and turning this into another Beast with all the power and high MPG's. Who would turn their nose up at that, eh?

Thor is on the road. OMG! What a change to dropping that flatbed and going to a normal truck bed. I've got scale weights from back when Thor was a service truck and now with the normal truck bed. Flatbed with tools and all equipment - 9,600 pounds Normal truck bed -------------------------- 7,300 pounds Weight Savings ---------------------------- 2,300 pounds This truck is quick now. I can row the gears and accelerate pretty darn quickly. Thor still has a few issues, like the exhaust brake quit. I got a new radiator for Thor, but I just tucked it in the shop for now. I need to get a trailer load of scrap metal hauled to Lewiston soon, so we have some extra funds. I will say Thor runs much cooler in EGTs now, MPG is up how much is uncertain as of yet. Thor is now going to be my daily driver truck, allowing me to repair Beast properly. The flatbed and front winch bumper might be sold to a local gent. We will see. All in all, I'm super impressed with the weight reduction and the fact that I can now use Thor to tow my RV for camping. Previously, I couldn't use my RV hitch because the rear hitch point was too low to the ground. Little bugs need to be shaken out and get Thor shaped up now.

I need to get home and really look over the wiring maps to see if I can see a reach between these two (CCD Bus and blower motor)

I'm wondering more so the PCM ground being impacted possibly. The only connection PCM and HVAC have is the pressure switches for the A/C side. 5 volt not 12V. Something is affecting power or fouling the creation of CCD bus. Remember the PCM is the source of the CCD Bus. There is a PCM ground wire article @IBMobile. Im on the road today.

Here is am taking a road trip down Tuesday for medical for both @Tweety Bird and myself handling my Cronic Kidney Disease. Yeah my cancer might be over but I'm still with health issues. Yesterday I was dressed up similar to today's pictures. My nurse sure enjoy chatting with me and wondering why the make up. Something about having radioactive material injected into you and watch you kidneys light up on a X-ray screen then watch them drain into my ostomy in realtime. Yeah that test was super close to blow out. My bag was full! Yeah they still betting on me in my purple and black hair. The day is young yet ill see about updating with more pictures and adventures. Oh no chatting for me. The gallery will show locations where photos have been taken. Let's see what else I can do for locations.

Do NOT grind big patches of clean metal. Just remove a bolt or screw and leave paint intact. Other than that the grounds rust out rapidly and fail quicker. Make sure you metal is painted. Just the bolt or screw needs be clean and cut fresh threads maybe drill a new hole? DO NOT GRIND TO BARE METAL!

Yeah, I would figure a bit more line pressure is in order. I would consider giving a transmission shop like DTT or similar a call and get good performance pressure specifications from them. Sadly, I'm a bit thin on automatic knowledge but yes, typically more line pressure is used in modified trucks. I'm trying to remember that something in the low 100 realm of pressure is typical. That's where the DTT box will control the max pressure signal back to the PCM. Just spitballing...