Mopar1973Man

I've got less than 1/2 cord left of dry wood the rest is under a snow pile unsplit...

That was the thing that trigger that study was even with 2 cycle oil as a lube for the fuel I had people dumping mass amount of cetane booster on washing out the effect of the 2 cycle oil still getting P0216 codes and other pump issues. This what stemmed off the lube study deep and then the cetane study of local fuels to find out what is actually needed for trouble free operation through the winter time. So in 439k miles I've never gelled up once. But I've go one of the coolest running VP44 my fuel temp is lower than most. But since I kept my stock fuel filter I still got a fuel heater and collect warmth for the fuel from the manifold. This done by the coolant passage that is near the stock fuel filter this why I ALWAYS suggest you keep your stock filter in the northern states or anyone that travel in the snow. In 439k miles on The Beast (2002 Dodge) last VP44 lasted 243k miles. Never used cetane booster - Why do I want to reduce the BTU content? Never used Anti-Gel products - Why add in more paint thinner to ruin the lubricity of the fuel to keep it flowing? ALWAYS bought quality fuels that I knew met the grade (after study of course) ALWAYS used 3um filters on the AirDog and 7um filter in the stock location. Double filtered. Again as ASTM labs states... There is no benefit to using a higher cetane number fuel than is specified by the engine's manufacturer. The ASTM Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils (D-975) states, "The cetane number requirements depend on engine design, size, nature of speed and load variations, and on starting and atmospheric conditions. Increase in cetane number over values actually required does not materially improve engine performance. Accordingly, the cetane number specified should be as low as possible to insure maximum fuel availability." This quote underscores the importance of matching engine cetane requirements with fuel cetane number!!!

I've seen those before but I'd always though it would work out to hot. I guess so... I'll admit I've never tried it but I bet its fun.

Another secret I used. I used the ability I'm with a fire dept to get information for safety study of common household chemical that might be on a ranch or farm. SoI was able to ask that clerk for contact information for the phone number of the company supplying fuel. Then contact them and keep going. Keep asking questions and keep asking for someone with more knowledge of the next thing you want to know. Then you find yourself most likely talking to a refinery at the last step getting the specs of fuel, how the trucks are loaded, etc. I'll tell you you can waste a good solid day to two days do all this study of just one brand. I did Chevron, Cennex, Maverik, and a few Mom and Pop places too. Just to see if there was anything different.

Secret... Idaho gets it fuel from Salt Lake City UT or Seattle WA. All diesel fuel is raw till it put in the truck. Then all the additive package for what brand of fuel. So the fuel all comes from the same start but when the truck tanks are loaded you have a final product that can ship anywhere. Yeah I did my research right back to where my fuel comes from how it's mixed and what level. As for common PPD (pour point depressant) it common sold under the name Xylene. Yup paint thinner. Use to have a Cennex up here that sold the PPD for ranchers and farmers. I'll have to dig up the photo. Xylene is also used in cetane boosters. Yeah I've done my homework. Then as you figure your cetane and everything in the you'll notice on the ASTM labs test scale you find higher the cetane the lower the BTU's. Dark Green is the summer fuel as tested using specs from local fuels. Then the light green is my winter fuel and tested by specs. Then look at the bottom of that for the BTU's and you can see the loss from 43 cetane in the summer to 50 to 53 cetane in the winter. So the last thing I would want to do is add MORE CETANE or ANTI_GEL being our fuel is pretty solid to -30*F which I did one winter left my truck in a field for the night and came back and it fired up a bit rough but no issues. IIRC... This was local Cennex fuel when I did my study...

Assuming its a power relay setup and not a direct plugin to the ECM.

I know the feeling I did the same thing yesterday working on 2014 Ram 6.7L Cummins doing a clutch and rear main seal. The control arms are so big for the front axles it too narrow for me to slip under so its rather challenging to shoulder walk under the truck and turn past the control arms. Hopefully today I'm done with this one. Ugh...

Strange... Still in the deep freeze here. Started at a low of 19*F and yesterdays high was like 34*F. Might get snow in this next week and the snow amounts up here look good for now but I would like to see more snow really.

No. I had the standard speaker set up. The only thing you need to do is order the faceplate for the stereo and then the stereo wiring kit for that truck. You can reuse those speakers just as well. The amplifiers are on the front two 6x9 speakers. Face plate https://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-6700-Dash-Ford-74-03/dp/B0002EXGVY/ Wiring kit https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1817-Harness-Chrysler-1984-2006/dp/B0002BF0DE/ Here is what I'm running for stereo. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017Y5W2PO/

Typically 60% of the volume is returns as long and the pressure behind the overflow valve is above 14 PSI and then the fuel is return below that the value is close and nothing is returned. Being just quick math at 65 MPH and about 18 MPG which is a fair average your only injecting 3.61 GPH of fuel this means the remain volume is returned again only if the pressure is above 14 PSI behind the overflow valve. Stock lift pump (Carter) was only a 60 GPH pump at barely 13 to 14 PSI back when I fought with them during the Campaign phase which failed...

Nice Ford Truck looks good. I look at the step rail and just think I'll never fit under that truck just to do like an oil change.

Exactly what I did. Ditched the stock head unit. Installed a Kenwood Bluetooth stereo. Then upgraded the cig plug to USB. The part I don't like is the Bluetooth to FM seems the volume is always weaker than Bluetooth to a head unit directly like what Beast has. Being I bought a FM transmitter for Thor also use in the Mini van. Either vehicle seems weak for volume.

Yup, you are absolutely right. Yeah there is things I wanted to do and now I'm gearing up this spring catching up with @JAG1 and @IBMobile for there camp trip. Now I have no one to answer to but me. Time to be a bit selfish. I've earned the right too.

There is a two wire plug on the socket just a PITA to remove so you can check. But you should be able to somewhat reach it from the driver side. I removed mine and installed 3A USB charger. One plug is my Garmin GPS then the second is to charge my phone. Since the USB charger is QC3 it will charge pretty fast. Quick Charge 3.0 USB Charger Socket, ADSDIA 12V/24V 36W Aluminum Waterproof Dual QC3.0 Car Charger Power Adapter Outlet with LED Display for Car Boat Marine Motorcycle Scooter RV Golf Cart DIY Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PN5YZX3/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_883DAW4JAFP7E8N52KS5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Where is the nice metal lids?

Right out of ASTM testing labs. There is no benefit to using a higher cetane number fuel than is specified by the engine's manufacturer. The ASTM Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils (D-975) states, "The cetane number requirements depend on engine design, size, nature of speed and load variations, and on starting and atmospheric conditions. Increase in cetane number over values actually required does not materially improve engine performance. Accordingly, the cetane number specified should be as low as possible to insure maximum fuel availability." This quote underscores the importance of matching engine cetane requirements with fuel cetane number!!! This is why I don't use cetane additive. Being my winterized diesel up here is closer to 50 cetane and Dodge requires 45 in the winter. Then 40 cetane summer. Adding more cetane will only reduce MPG number, reduce amount of BTUs per gallon.

My hat is off to you sir. I understand the tending to family far too good. Being I cared for my father till he passed in 2004 on then my mother passed in 2020. The things you do for family and my opinion its the best thing to do. Might be cold and cranky but you got family.... Be there for them.

Well I got a real winner. My customer owns a 2014 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins. She was having issues with the clutch slipping and the rear main seal is leaking. I will warn that the DEF tank is part of the cross member / skid plate. Ok. Leave it installed get the transfer case I'm glad I work on the floor I had to flip that transfer case in such a manner to get it out of the little hole I had. Whew! Past that issue. Not trying ot unplug wire and separate the wires from the transmission and cross member. Another PITA. Whew! Got past that one. Now get the transmission down and out after prying it out of the clutch yeah seriously. Trans is down and now for the clutch not to bad but with 290k on the clock the dual mass flywheel was beat up on the springs. Son-of-a-bio... Yeah that stupid front bolted flexplate crap... Good thing I got out of the way that flywheel is very heavy and it hit the floor kind of hard. Not worried I got a full Valair clutch / flywheel going in. Now I'm pulling the adapter plate then realized I forgot the starter. The 2 bolts on the bottom were TIGHT the one on top I couldn't do with a 13mm wrench. We geared up and got the plate loose and got a fairly straight shot down with my 1/2" DeWalt Impact gun with a fresh battery. Nope That top bolt won't budge. F___... Time to get creative. Ok just unwire the starter and then pull adapter plate out with the starter. Nope. I can't get the damn starter solenoid lead unplugged. Of course on top and can't get a good squeeze or pull on the plug. At that point Mark and I gave up. Yeah I got smart this morning and asked a friend to come over and throw tools for me. So at this point I still can't get the starter un-wired the adapter plate has one bolt holding the starter. I'm one tired and sore puppy.

Yes it is... Don't bother. It won't do you any good being its not something you just set and forget. It takes time and studying and logging to get a tune built and correct. Something that took me years to prefect on even my own truck. XZT is not a good solution. Being that has to be programmed before it leaves Quadzilla. Quadzilla Adrenaline you can do all the tune work on your mobile device. Again this takes time and studying to get a absolute optimal tune. I've got a few tricks that I've tried on a few members trucks and works out really good. Cool as it gets cruising the highway for EGT's.

Another view of 17*F as the sun comes up and man that wind is super cold cut you like a knife.

Confirmed what I'm saying... Yup You gotta stand on the throttle once in awhile to shake things up and make that mighty Cummins use it all. Like freeway on ramp stand on that throttle for the what 1/8 to 1/4 mile and let it eat. Like myself I use a full range of throttle on my trucks like two days ago I was using Thor (2006) and on my way home I would down shift when its clear and the stand the throttle to about 80 to 85 MPH and then back out back to cruising speed of 65 MPH. I can drive in such a manner that I never bring boost above 10 to 15 PSI on either Beast or Thor and never work that wastegate, being I typically drive with economy in mind. Att the same time I know I got to work that wastegate now and then. Hmmm... Maybe that why Beast (2002) never had a wastegate issue. The previous owner of Thor (2006) was well kind of rough on it. But didn't take care of the failed wastegate solenoid and the P0243 code now I can reach the P0234 over boost code so I might have to check mine ot be sure it not stuck either as @AH64IDsuggested in my other thread.

I think that's what happened in town yesterday. Pup did a fuel filter on the 4th Gen clean the bowl up with brake clean and every thing might of caught the o-ring wrong and it started to leak. I pulled the cap inspected and then the fuel dripped all over the bowl so in it went again but this time fuel soaked. No leak after that. I'm also very careful about torquing those plastic caps too being its possible to break the socket stub off the top or strip the threads out on the cap. Who in there right mind build a fuel filter cap with a 1-1/8" hex on top that your going to use a 1/2" drive ratchet and socket? Of course there is a dummy out there leveraging up on the end of a 1/2 inch ratchet to pull it home TIGHT! Don't want it to leak... SNAP! or STRIP!

Yup you can... I've seen and been in -30*F before and next day or so warm up near zero does feel warmer than the previous days. Still cold be it how fast the cold soaks into to you is the difference. More or less a zero degree day wouldn't chill you as fast compared to -30*F that feels colder faster.

Ugh. Man that just cold. Back a about 4 years ago we dropped to -40*F in New Meadows, ID minus anything is just plan cold period.

@wil440 imagine if you popped the 140 stock fuse? So far on my truck never tripped the breaker or the protection fuse for the PCM.