Mopar1973Man

I bought the cable its pretty cheap. Then even for me I had to set up a Virtualbox with Windows. Then I could run the software on my Ubuntu Linux PC to set the gauges. The biggest thing everyone likes about these gauges is the RED warning light. When I do sell a set of gauge for clients I always take the 30 seconds and program the gauges for what they are set up for. Like EGT's warning light is set for 1,200*F. Boost depending on the limits of there turbo, fuel pressure 13 or lower the light is tripped. Then trans temp I set for 220*F. Now you just notice the red light in level on the a-pillar and know exactly what is going on without even looking at the gauge. For example mine are from top to bottom... Boost, Fuel pressure, and EGT's so if like yesterday it was really cold and my fuel start to thicken a bit and pressure dropped below 13 for a few miles but I knew what was going on without even monitoring the gauge because the center gauge lit up and I knew pressure is lower than 13 and quick glance it was 11 to 12 PSI. I kept truckin' soon the fuel warmed up and pressure popped back up to 17 like normal warning light went out.

I'll have to show you. I'll pull one of my gauges tomorrow and get photo of it. There is a main port (6 pin) that you'll see. Then just below it you may see the other smaller 6 pin plug this is the USB port. There is a plastic part on the square opening that you can break out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Again I would have to see a photo of the gauge back I can tell you.

I would like to see the back of the gauge. There is a plastic piece of trim in the back you can remove to access the USB port in back (4 pin connector) then you able to program the gauges for warning lights, lighting, needle movement etc.

I would keep them. Really easy to install. I prefer the ISSPro EV2 series over any mechanical gauge now. Being the ISSPro EV2 is programmable and can have custom warning lights per each gauge. So tell me which ones you got and I can help you set up.

SOLVED!!! Number 1 the Dodge FSM book has a error in the wiring map in the P0243 code document. But if you go to the 8W-30-28 page in the 2006 Dodge FSM and look at the wastegate solenoid versus the P0243 page with its map two different things. Here is the correct diagram. Then here is the incorrect map that is provided at the P0243 code... Now take look at the fuse number. The second one is fuse #36 vs the correct one that is fuse #6. Then look at the wire color on the second one the map calls for one grey/pink. Then the correct one is pink//yellow from the solenoid to the C130 connector. Then above the C130 connector turns to the Red/orange which the first map is correct. So this could really mess with you. So back to the problem the previous owner must have blown that fuse and never replaced it or something because the port was empty for #6. Now that I plugged a 30A fuse in it since that was my biggest fuse on hand the error code is gone. Then now that solves the other problem with the fan clutch and summer overheating being the same fuse that runs the fan clutch. Just needed a fuse in the #6 port and problem solved.

I would say leave the cooler in place just me personally.

As for your brakes I would double check everything. Assembly, cables, you can actually look at the way things work in the drum by having a partner slow and lightly pressing on the brake pedal and watch the shoes slowly expand past the point, it should pull the cable tight and ratchet up the star wheel. I wonder if the ID of the drum is TOO wide and constantly wheeling up the shoes because the shoes are just traveling too far every stroke. I would suggest checking the ID of the drum for size.

I typically verify the ECT to the IAT values on live data tools. Cold engine, key on engine off, then read both ECT and IAT values typically they match at first key on cycle.

Actually an open circuit is going to cause a high volt code being there is no ground. The +5V and sense at the ECM will see +5V and hi volt code is thrown. Now if the if its shorted to ground now the voltage goes low and now will trip the lo volt code. So an open circuit will make the gauge go hi in value, and shorted to ground will make the gauge value go down. This should help explain this... +5V & Sense -----> ECT Sensor <------ Return to ECM Ground.

Ah. Now I know what you are talking about now. I guess your pulling the yolk to get that ring off.

Another you could do is pull the entire engine harness and send to @Auto Computer Specialist they do harness repairs of this type.

that should cover the p0336 code.

So lets start with the code I know its not list here. The P0243 code is a wastegate solenoid issue. Either there is no +12V power or no control from the ECM on the ground side. Now I can say that this wiring diagram is not very helpful at all. The wire colors are wrong here too. The plug at the solenoid is Dark Blue (ground to ECM) then there is pink/yellow. Then tracing back from the solenoid I do have continuity from the pink/yellow to the C130 connector. At this point the wire swaps to red/orange color heading to the TIPM. Now that red/orange wire now there is two connectors in the TIPM that have this red/orange colored wire going to the module. One is constant hot +12V the other one is dead even key on. A friend informed me it might be powered with tach signal (engine running). I've thought of cutting in a new key hot power line to the c130 connector and going form there. I don't want to start chopping up wiring to make this work. The other problem is there is no continuity from the c130 to either red/orange in the TIPM. Now I'm stumped. Little info or help would be nice... ADDON: I finished my oil change and then fired up and checked the orange/yellow wire at the TIPM and there is no power present. Fuse is good. Power across the fuse as well. Even with the solenoid removed from the turbo and unplugged there is no code for the solenoid being missing. I figured it would pop the code fairly instantly. According to the 2006 Dodge FSM • When Monitored: When the ignition is on. • Set Condition: The ECM detects an open or short circuit in the Wastegate solenoid circuit.

@JAG1Sorry to say I can't use a stock air box too restrictive for Beast. I'm sure not going to dust a good engine with washable filters so BHAF is the solution. Filter in a wire mesh cage.

IR Thermometer could be had at Harbor Freight for cheap. https://www.harborfreight.com/121-infrared-laser-thermometer-63985.html?_br_psugg_q=infrared+thermometer It's not like we are measuring temperature for exact. But these cheap temp guns do work and will temp roughly tell you how hot or cold something is.

Might pull the sensor off the back and use some silicone spray or WD-40 to displace the water.

Here we are January 01, 2022 Starting the new year.

I'm more of a manual guy. But... I'd say upgrade the cooler only if your trans temp was up to 200°F too often. Then I would up grade. Seriously my Dynamic 46RE built 1/2 ton Dodge ran seriously cool most times even hauling trailer. Proper built trans will run cooler. Also proper final ratio. Even that truck was running 215/85 R16. So that made it 3.6x:1 or so.

Blue Chips special X is too advanced. That's your hard start or possibly the key is crushed and timing is advanced. I've seen both cases causing hard start. Fuel pressure to high could cause hard starting. Fuel pressure should be 7 to 12 PSI. Should not be any higher during cranking. Try unplugging the FASS and see if it starts easy. Excessive pop pressure on injectors greater than 330 bar. Make it tough to start cold. For easy starts low fuel pressure and retarded timing is way easier to start.

Even AFe with the airbox is a mouse condo. BHAF is pretty good choice and I've not seen and had any problems.

Leave the hood open. Most mice and rats won't hang around typically.

Just enough to lube everything up. If you rev the engine it might squirt a bit more or fling it off the rockers.

+50 HP are custom made. So yes they are pop tested and flow matched. You'll also find the +50 Hp are typically a bit cheaper the RV275.

...VERY COLD TEMPERATURES EXPECTED OVER THE HOLIDAY WEEKEND... ESPECIALLY SATURDAY MORNING... Skies will clear and temperatures will become very cold late Friday night into Saturday morning. Low temperatures in the valleys are expected to be from around 5 above zero to 10 below zero, with mountains generally in the 5 below zero to 20 below zero range. Sunday will be not be as cold, but most locations will be in the 5 above to 5 below zero range in the morning. Fortunately, most winds will stay below 10 mph during the coldest periods. However, the Camas Prairie will have dangerous wind chills down to 35 below zero Saturday morning, with a significant risk of frostbite. Other areas will have lighter winds and will not be quite so cold, but even light winds can lead to frostbite at those temperatures.