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Mopar1973Man

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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man

  1. If you get it to resolve the P0216 code and stay cleared after a tank of fuel I would still watch it like a hawk. Kind of like saying if the oil pressure minimum is 10 PSI at idle and the engine oil pressure is actually 8 PSI at idle and barely 25 PSI at 2,000 RPM. Do you expect the engine to last as long? Most likely not. Being the fuel is your lubricant and coolant for the VP44 when you short change for pressure now your return is closed being the over flow closes at 10 PSI completely this means all your cooling and lubing ability of the fuel has stopped. Now this goes farther being now the cooling has slowed way down now the fuel temperature rises (Flow is roughly 2.5 GPH at 55 MPH). I've had a discussion with some that have 140 to 150*F fuel temps. While with my setup I struggle to even reach 130*F. Typically more like 90 to 110*F fuel temps. VP44 PSG is very happy here. Being the fuel pressure never drop below 14 PSI this means optimal cooling and lubing. Meaning longer life. Yeah you can run a VP44 on as little as 5 PSI as BlueChip so quickly announced you can still make MAX HP. But I'll note the longevity is greatly shorten on the VP44 from the lack of cooling and lubing.
  2. Because the OE lift pump was too small from the start, why most of us upgrade to larger pumps. If pressure is dropping out then the pump is too small and the plumbing is too restrictive. I was here a very long time ago with the very same problem where I ran Carter Campaign pump on the frame rail and fought to barely reach 11 to 12 PSI at WOT and 14 -15 Cruise pressure. Still to this day I still see stock fuel system barely pulling 5 to 7 PSI at WOT and just shake my head. Doesn't even need to be modified to be be low in pressure hence the whole reason for lift pump market for our truck it never went away. Might have too though... If the timing piston is galled up and stuck there is absolutely nothing you can do. I just done a VP44 that would start cold and run fine but shut it down it would never start again with a warm engine. P0216 code present and the timing piston is STUCK ADVANCED so the engine will never start. After a new VP44 truck run great and starting issues is over. If you can't get proper timing there is a host of weird things that pop up from not starting or just running will super low power. Even my last VP44 was stuck full advanced and was rattling hard core. P0216 code and only could do about 25 to 30 MPH top speed home. To remove this piston I had to heat the pump body with a propane torch and expand the body to even pull it out. Additional info... Yes I've already been done this road long time ago...
  3. Demand volume is out weighing the supplied volume. Need a pum with more volume to keep up. Then you need plumbing with less restriction. Stock lift pumps are about 60 GPH pump which are too small from the get go. The stock plumbing is less that 1/4" its 6mm ID. Very restrictive. Even to this day AirDog 150 pump I'm only a 2 to 3 PSI drop from idle to WOT at 100 MPH with about 500 HP with of mods. This just points out you need a better fuel system. Make sure the tank vent is not plugged up you could clean it up and the route some vinyl tube to a higher place where mud and dirt won't plug it. VP44 is done and need to be replaced with that P0216 code the timing piston is ruined. Quadzilla Adrenaline 180 HP DAP 150 HP Injectors (7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar) HX35/40 Hybrid Turbo 60/60/12 producing 47 to 49 PSI boost. AirDog 150 with a 4G AirDog 165 pump. Idle at 17 PSI and WOT at 14 to 15 PSI @ 100 MPH.
  4. PSG is the electronic module controlling the vp44. Fuel pressure during cranking should be 7 to 12 bouncing. This is normal being the ECM is 50% duty cycle on the lift pump. Use a shop vacuum on blow and pressurize the fuel tank and have a second person look over the suction lines. Crossover tubes have o-ring seals and might weep air back in. Overflow valve can be tested by using compressed air set to 10 PSI the valve should stay closed. Then at 14 PSI it should be open. Disregard the bleed hole it doesn't count.
  5. Typically hot start issue is high cranking fuel pressure and/or possibly P0216 code. Like the last one I dealt with you could start the engine cold but after it warmed up it would not start again. It had a P0216 code. After VP44 replacement the hard start was gone. This was cause by a stuck timing piston and it was stuck advanced. Needless to say that job managed to down me for one month while my left hand ring finger healed up. Yup. Trying to get the pump gear off with my puller and punched the fan. Should of had stitches but I dealt with it myself being I didn't want to deal with the BS COVID-19 test and hospital policies.
  6. Quad has nothing to do with start up. It ignored at start up. Watch your fuel pressure gauge if you have a mechanical gauge. If the gauge falls out there is a air bubble going up the line. Air is compressible so the pressure typically sinks for a bit and pops back up. Check suction lines they typically will not leak out but continue to suck air in.
  7. Funny part is the biggest problem is thin fluids. PenzOil is so thin its like 5W or even 0W engine oil hence why the failures. There is no way to make that oil cling to gears or bearings if the oil is slung off with centrifugal forces. One of the few reason I stepped up to thicker lube. Stock NV4500 was 75w-80 when I swapped to Mobil 50 SAE that turns out like 90 weight gear. But being single grade it nearly the same as 80 weight side of the factory fluid you can look up the centistokes at temperature viscosity of both and see it nearly the same.
  8. Check the wiring it could be wiring issues. Then its possible the tone ring fell off into the pan ive seen one case of this. Poor quality sensor possible.
  9. My design... above... hmmm I wonder who let the cat out...
  10. Yeah after all the miles on mine at 350k miles I opted to just upgrade to 425 ARP studs and be done.
  11. Like when I did mine I only used a sharpen putty knife to light scrap off the gasket material. Then checked with a straight edge and make sure there was no material left to cause a high spot. Used a vacuum cleaner to suck up all the little bits of gasket material. Then using compressed air blow the cylinders out good making sure there is no material in the cylinders.
  12. I tried the overfill for one run on Mobile 50 (5 quarts). Nothing gained for me. I went back to standard 1 gallon fills (4 quarts). No coolers still but Trans Temps are always low. The only time I seen high temps ever was that long grade pull on White Bird grade in 115*F weather. Then the long grade pull to Ely, NV heading up to 7,000 feet. again both run topped out at 200 to 220*F My ISSPro is set for 220 warning light. I've only seen it ONCE! Period. Never seen it again after dropping from 235/85 R16 to 245/75 R16 tires. Final ratio makes a HUGE difference on transmission temps. Even my last pull. 160*F max transmission temp climbing around in the back country. No faster than 20 to 30 MPH. No wind for cooling and no coolers. No heat problems. 7 x 12 trailer and 2 cords plus on the trailer.
  13. Edge Comp and stock injectors. Towing a customers truck home to him. This is over 6 year ago. Neither do I... Being Valvoline has both GL-4 and GL-5 rating on the bottle.
  14. According to my rebuilder (Abe) at Weller truck it could be used in both NV4500 and NV5600. Now other members here will argue over this fact. Like PenzOil Syncromesh is not a full GL-4 lube because it just TOO THIN you will not find a GL rating on PenzOil. No mention of being synthetic either. I've got over 150k miles on Mobil 50 SAE with no issues. Never had a fluid failure yet. Power failures (breaking gear teeth off), pilot bearing failure, etc but never a fluid failure. Both transmission should be on GL-4 because of the syncros which GL-5 will attack yellow metal and carbon fiber syncros. The only current GL rating is GL-4 for transmissions and GL-5 axles and differentials. GL-1, GL-2, GL-3 and GL-6 are obsolete. I asked Abe about Valvoline 75w-90 it meets the GL-4 rating but... It is not a synthetic gear lube. This is not suggested in our transmissions either NV4500 or NV5600. Currently have both carbon fiber and brass syncros. Reverse, 1st gear and 2nd gear are carbon fiber. Now 3rd, 4th and 5th are all brass. Still in all GL-4 is design around all syncros. None of my failures are fluid related..  Broke the mainshaft at 3rd and 4th gear. Never ran that hot even towing around here. I just pulled that trailer out of the back country with over 2 cords of wood and never got over 160*F. The Lube is a bit thicker cold but has awesome cold weather characteristics it is a full synthetic lube. My temp probe is in the PTO cover on the driver side. https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-businesses/heavy-duty-lubricants/products/mobil-delvac-1-transmission-fluid-50/ Typically sells for about $250 a 5 gallon bucket. Breaks down to $12.50 a quart. Still cheaper than Mopar fluid I use to buy at $27 a quart. Shift performance is good all the way down to -40*F and all the way up to 220*F of trans fluid.
  15. As long as you don't leave it idle... Then it will drive as normal but leave it sit and idle excessively then the high idle software kicks in.
  16. Thank you. Yup that was what I was talking about just couldn't get off my tip tongue... Did the job for a local carpet cleaner truck he's got a 2001 Dodge.
  17. 3G motor... The bearings failed because the pump shaft seal started leaking washed out the bearings with diesel fuel and then it partial seized up and popped the fuse. I jumped to the 4G motor from AirDog and never looked back. The 4G 165 Pump head will fit the body of the 2nd and 3rd gen filter base. The 4G AirDog pump is a double seal shaft with double bearings.
  18. There is one catch on some models of hydro booster you input rod has to be cut and re-welded back together to replace the input shaft seal. That was the one I didn't bother with. Only way you can tell is after you pull the entire unit out.
  19. Ok... To verify sensors. Setup your iQuad app and have ready in the morning. On the display have coolant and IAT right next to each other. Now when your turn the key on for the wait to start just done start it. Leave it. Now look at the IAT and coolant temps they should be both the same. If not then you'll have to have IR temp gun and measure the best you can between the coolant and IAT locations. Verify the sensors are displaying correctly. The one that is off on the measurement and what is displayed is the one to replace.
  20. Ok simple. The only way for Quadzilla to activate the high idle is if you have the warm up mode set ON. If the warm up mode is set for OFF it should not start high idle. High idle on the ECM has no way to disable. It will activate any time the conditions are TRUE. IAT <32*F (6 CYL) or IAT <15*F (3 CYL) ECT <140*F Those two conditions are true then the ECM will start high idle. For ECM to cancel high idle... Brake Pedal Pressed Throttle Pedal Pressed Automatic place into gear Road speed > 0 MPH Engine Coolant > 169*F
  21. All 98.5 to 2002 Dodge Cummins ISB engines have the software already. If anyone has ever used a Smarty tuner on that truck it automatically enables the software. The only way to turn it off again is a visit to the Dodge Dealer and have a dealer tech reverse that article above and turn it back off. Another thing the temperatures are based on IAT temperatures. When you start the truck the grid heaters are running so the manifold temperature has to fall below 32*F for 6 cylinder high idle, then 15*F for high idle 3 cylinder. This is where the high idle kit into place because now it give you control over the software to allow it be automatic or manual force the 3 CYL or 6 CYL modes. If you want to ditch the Cummins software high idle you'll have to visit a Dodge Dealer and have it turned off. The Quadzilla high idle work pretty good and good for light winter stuff. It provides good 6 cylinder high idle based on ECT temp what you have set and the delay of second before it kick back in. No 3 cylinder mode provided by Quadzilla. Either way 6 cylinder high idle doesn't generate much heat. This only creates about 300 to 400*F EGT's and warm up time is long. Now enable 3 CYL mode of the Cummins software and also use your exhaust brake. I've seen warm up times from -20*F to 170*F engine temp in under 15 minutes. 3 cylinder mode and an exhaust brake can produce nearly 1,000*F EGT's and warm up a cold Cummins in a quick amount of time. Even without a exhaust brake 3 CYL can produce a good solid 600*F EGT's and still warm up fairly fast. It can depending on the settings for warm pu and delay for high idle listed in the setting page.