Mopar1973Man

Typically... What I do is set for level 2 and now build the defuel curve to cut out smoke. Then switch to level 3 now build the rest of the curve till is fairly smoke free. Then wiretap and up is wiretap and just need to tweak its setting to bring on the wire tap well after the turbo is spooled. So for you I suggest starting at about 90% fuel. Then by about 5 or 6 PSI of boost you should be at 100% and then you can build the rest of the fuel curve up.

Again because there is no boost pressure to move air. Heck all I got to do is turn on my exhaust heading down hill and I can push IAT past 140*F easy. It nothing to worry about. Again once I'm back into boost pressure the IAT falls back down. Yup like you typically high RPM exhaust brake usage will push quite a bit of hot gasses back in the manifold as the exhaust brake is running. Well a bit but again there is no air flow of the grill area other than the engine fan which typically is not fully locked. I don't count idling temperatures because the truck is not moving through the air. Typically my fuel temperature and my IAT temps chase each other. Within about 5 degrees tops.

Yeah there is nothing to it. I've wrote a tuning guide, @Me78569 wrote one too. Here is even a Excel sheet tuner for Quadzilla.

Actually no, its the lack of boost pressure. When I'm dogging along in McCall at 25 MPH my IAT rises slightly maybe 5*F tops. Once I get back to highway speed again and boost pressure is about 5 PSI my IAT temps falls again. Air Conditioning has zero impact really for my truck. Just the engine load rises 2% that's all. No change in coolant temperature, no change in IAT or Engine oil temperature.

I did but I set the time to end wrong and it was not displaying now it is... Opps... typo

Just an update for you all. I will have the LED bulbs in by Friday according to the tracking the only thing I did not order yet is 9004 or 9005 bulbs for right now.

Ok. That should work but remember if you happen to reset to stock you lose all that. So you numbers should be close then.

No fuel pressure. Fuel pressure that is above 14 PSI keeps the overflow valve open and the VP44 cooled off. Fuel pressure is the solution here typically. Still running the same old AirDog 150 with a 165 AirDog Pump head. Fuel pressure is never below 15 PSI. But idle is 17 PSI.

Those MPG are not corrected. Your odometer is not clocking miles correctly. You would have to use a GPS to track mileage. There is no way to do a percentage offset on the MPG calculation to get a corrected MPG number.

@Quadzilla Power here you go...

80 mile round trip to McCall ID, cruise set for 65 MPH. Just update with current trip. As I said high fuel temps are not normal. NOTE: Transmission Temperature is actually Engine Oil Temperature.

Now you might want to talk to @IBMobile about the lock up switch design he has.

Never thought of that but very possible. Transmission temps should spike quickly if so...

1998.5 to 2002 Dodge 2.7 is the right one...

First off the max output of the alternator is 136 Amp period. The only way this could be happening and reaching over 150 Amp and popping is the alternator has issues with shorted diodes. Stock Fuse is only 140 Amps. The side problem is placement of the breaker. If the location is to close to heat source it could trip the breaker.

Yeah if it not making boost pressure seen by the Quadzilla then the fuel map will remain limited. Exactly what I would be expecting too. At least 50 to 60 PSI of boost. Even my smaller set up 7 x 0.010 injectors I still can hit 47 to 49 PSI of max boost. Just with my small 60/60/12 turbo. I would have to agree with @Me78569 and look at the MAP sensor. It should follow the mechanical gauge closely till about 25 to 30 PSI then it tend to wonder. Data logs on my Quadzilla show me reaching 69 PSI of boost... But mechanical gauge stops at about 47 to 49 PSI. This shows my upper end error of my sensor but I'm not worried. In your case the sensor is most likely short on signal which is limiting your ability to build boost.

Nice looking truck, also nice looking 5th wheel. Best to ditch that Smarty - Edge EZ combo and switch to Quadzilla. Better control of timing, runs much cooler. Neither tuner is design for large injectors. No way of increaseing timing for larger injectors. Then with the 285's tire that makes your final ratio lower number 3.42:1 and now adds more heat to the EGT's. Like myself I went down to 245/75 R16 and this now increases the final ratio to 3.69:1 and lowers the towing EGT's but 100 or 200 degrees. I'm also running 7 x 0.010 injectors (150 HP). Just tires alone will reduce EGT's temps. I'm only 17,300 pounds GCW in this picture, 62 foot long... Better towing power and less EGT's for sure. I run a total of 23* to 24* (Can't be done with your current tuners) at 2,000 RPM while towing and hit at least 14.7 MPG Max or 12.6 MPG Avg. Max EGT's climbing a 7% grade in between Mohave Valley and Kingman, Arizona on 110+ day was mere 1,100*F with cruise set at 65 MPH. My biggest problem down there was transmission temperatures. Engine coolant hovers at 195 to 197*F, engine oil temp floats about 175*F, etc. No heat issues.

Have your alternator tested. Sound like a high AC noise issue from the alternator. W-t Ground wire mod would fix most of it.

No issues with my 150 Amp breaker at all.

Yup been there done that and ended up breaking the blend door shaft. His suggestion is best yet. I had the blend door on full cold and when I put it back together caught the blend door on the wrong side of the case stop. Hence when I spun it to full hot the motor took off and forced till it broke the blend door shaft.

Most likely the grid heater relay are stuck on. Double check the relays on the fender to be sure they have opened. If stuck your going to have to replace them. Very possible that when the wires where left touching the block that the high current welded the contacts solid so it can't release. First disconnect the batteries. Now remove the large leads from the relays on the fender. Now with a DVM on "Ohms" check the ohm across both post of the relay. It should be infinite for a normal relay. If the relay is welded then the ohms will read ZERO or dead short. This means if you hook up the batteries the electricity is going to grid heaters uncontrolled. The grid heater itself is a very low ohm dead short like 0.2 ohms. Should never be a perfect ZERO either. Relays should not pass any power to the grid heater without the key on. This is the job of the relays to control the power to each grid heater elements. There is two 95 amp grid heater elements for a total of 190 amp draw with both elements going. Second tip... If you in warm weather you do not require a grid heater till about 32*F outside. I typically just unhook the two wires from the driver side battery and leave the grid heater unhooked all summer. April is unhook, and October is hooked back up for Idaho. These trucks do not require a grid heater for warm climates above 32*F. Most of the people in southern states just delete the entire thing. Not knowing where your at since your profile isn't filed out nor your signature.

I guess I better give him a call tomorrow and see if he's still around. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/

Yup this is @AH64ID ground here. Neat conversion you got. I know there is a few out there that know how to just delete the software from using the DPF, EGR and other devices on EFILive or MM3. Beyond me though...

Yes. Its very possible. Still have the alternator retested before leaving the rebuilder. I've seen a 6.7L Cummins with weird issues with electrical which I had to walk away from because I couldn't figure out what went wrong. The ECM was rebuilt by ACS as well and ECM was labeled the same way. Checked all the wiring they asked for and then hooked up and it started and ran for 5 miles and died. Sent the ECM back and had it tested again. No problems with the ECM. Hooked it up and started and ran for 30 seconds and then died again. The owner was going to just buy a salvaged loom. Now ACS does have a wiring loom rebuilder too so if the harness is the problem you can send the engine loom to ACS and they will test and rebuild the loom for you.