Mopar1973Man

Fuel pump relay drop is will cut the power to the PSG and the the P1689 code is tripped. As for @wil440 I thought it was the Fuel shutdown lead. That showed the pulses?

Start off with... Pull and test your alternator for excessive AC noise. Replace if the AC noise level is too high. Then make sure to test the new alternator before leaving the store. I've had wiped out a store after having them pull 2 alternators and had then both fail on the bench. Any error codes? Any check engine lights? I need to know if the ECM is damaged. Not always will it just fail with code but clues might be given. This article is to reduce excessive AC noise from jumping off the alternator charge lead into the ground strip heading into ECM and VP44. This one is optional, but it will protect your PCM from shorts in the alternator.

Nothing.... OEM power pack does nothing, order a second power pack still nothing. No charge light. No bootup, no turning on. Like no power at all. I'm going to try and see if Asus will repair it. I'call a high school buddy that does Computer Repair in Las Vegas, He won't touch it. Most of the little computer places around me don't want to touch it either. It died back in January when I was busy tending to @MoparMom before she passed on. Now I've been really wanting to get it fixed but can't find anyone to fix it. After M73M.Com buying this I really can't just toss it out after barely a year and buy another. There is only so much I can do on a cell phone. Since my master computer here at home has all my work stuff still only means I can work at home. If I travel I'm limited in what can do. Make thing more fun I've been fight with my left hand being I've got nerve damage to my middle finger and ring finger at the tips. Numbness. Cellphone makes it worse. Much easier to push the mouse no as nerve racking (no kidding). Even better I'm left handed.

You could send the entire harness to @Auto Computer Specialist they can rebuild engine harnesses.

Last I knew the brake light switch is on a ratchet adjustment. Being the pedal fell should not make a difference. Normal brake pedal travel should not affect the switch adjustment. Like re bleeding the brakes full travel to the floor.

Sure does put the finger on Democrats.

Exactly. I've got a logging company in New Meadows, ID all they use in all the truck is Delo as well. Even right down to -40*F winter temperature. No block heaters, etc. Service trucks and all equipment is all running Delo for this entire company. Being I happen to know the crew pretty well and bring my waste oil for dumping.

I typically do a flush with engine off and the front axle lifted off the ground. route the steering gear box return to a waste bucket. NOTE: Do not use the hydro-booster return. Then plug the reservoir fitting and refill. Now go lock to lock with the engine off slowly. This action will self pump the enitre system dry and you continue to pour fluid in till the return line fluid is clean. Typically it takes about 1 gallon to flush and then refill and prime. Refill and prime is easy too. Leave the axle up. Now rehook the return line, refill and go lock to lock again till the air is push out. Let settle for a 15 minutes and check again. Top off and start chaeck again for air or foaming. Allow to settle with engine off. @Haggar could you re-write the article for the hydrobooster making a new updated article with your rebuild please?

For sure bigger fuel system needed.

Should be snap rings and circlips. The tool for these are very handy. 415k miles on my hydrobooster I've seen dampness only once then it stopped after changing my power steering fluid. Still using petroleum WalMart Supertech and still going. Changing my power steering fluid at 30k miles.

Remember P1693 code is just a signal that the opposite computer is having issues. Being most likely the PCM is calling the P1693 and ECM is not responding then I would say you might be looking at ECM problem. This could be reversed to if the ECM is reporting the P1693 code then PCM could be having the problems. Best answer... Send them both out and have them tested.

Last time I checked I was around 65k to 67k per year. Heck just with the trip to AZ I put over 2,000 miles on in 2 weeks. Just fun facts... Using 400k miles on the clock. If you change oil every 3k miles that would be 133.3 oil changes. That would be 366.6 gallons of oil. (oil change shops), 8.72 barrels. If you change oil every 7.5k miles that would be 53.3 oil changes. That would be 146.6 gallons of oil, 3.49 barrels. If you change oil every 10k miles that would be 40 oil changes. That would be 110 gallons of oil, 2.61 barrels. If you change oil every 15k miles that would be 26.6 oil changes. That would be 73.3 gallons of oil, 1.74 barrels. 42 gallons in a barrel oil.

Just another note here... Nothing should be tied to the battery terminals the only one exception is grid heater power supply. Nothing else should be tied to the batteries directly. No lift pump, no nothing. Those should all go into the PDC on the BATT terminal. No grounds are bolted to battery terminals either unless on exception is the W-T ground wire mod if you build the extra ground lead from the drive side battery to the bolt on the gear case (optional).

Just a heads up that you can send your whole engine harness to Auto Computer Specialist and they will test and rebuild your harness for you.

Typically frame.

There is a ground strap at the front on the driver side fender near the headlight. There is a few ground wires near the ABS pump.

1998.5 to 2000 had both cam and crank sensors. 2000 to 2002 had just cam sensor. Tone wheels are very different between the two designs. The early is just a single tooth on the cam then a tone ring on the actual crank. This ended in 2000... Then starting in 2000 was the change over to a multi-tooth ring on the cam gear and move the cam sensor inward towards the hub of the cam gear. When you look at wiring diagrams the crank sensor was only moved to the cam. The cam sensor was deleted. The tone ring on the crank deleted.

I would start doing oil testing from 10k and keep testing every 5k miles to see where the oil ends life for you. I'll give this that @dorkweed ran Walmart SuperTech Universal Diesel Oil 15w-40 and ran 87k miles on a single oil change only changing the bypass oil filter (MotorGuard) and the main oil filter every 7k miles. Then sampled the oil, topped off with replacement oil and sent of a sample for testing. He did this test on his CR truck 3rd Gen. Did it all on Blackstone labs testing.

Maybe... The problem would be having to send both off ot place like @Auto Computer Specialist to verify the softwares. They would test them both and tell you what is needed to repair them properly. Ummm... 2001 Dodge doesn't have crank and cam sensors. Only Cam sensor. This means the engine has been swapped. Unknown if the engine and ECM and PCM are all matched.

Mouser should have these kinds of connectors. https://www.mouser.com/

Might be either... Don't know till I get error codes back from you. Module Master in Moscow, ID do rebuild the clusters for good price. Just dumb things to ask. Did you check the cam sensor? Cam sensor wiring? Is the right ECM installed for your model year of truck? Some replace ECM willy nilly and end up having the wrong software possibly.

350k miles... #4 had a piece of turbo compressor get into the cylinder hence the rub mark.

Good enough reason... You might give some of our vendors a call like DAP.

Just the upper ends of the stock MAP sensor are not accurate. Above about 25 PSI. Quadzilla can report weird high values like my truck at 67 PSI recorded in the logs (either with 2001 MAP sensor or the 2002 MAP sensor) which I know I max out at 47 PSI typically (ISSPro gauge). EGT's now are close to each other but can very at times. Both are right next to each other in the 4,5,6 runner. I'm the late series MAP where like Nick's truck was early MAP and typically more accurate. Which the Quadzilla just caps the actual value to the ECM to like 18 PSI. I'm not using the fuel pressure of the Quad. ISSPro EV2. Being my a-pillar gauges are more visible over my Quad display which might no even used at the time. Trans temp of the Quadzilla I'm using for Engine Oil temp out of the oil cooler. That sensor seems to be just about dead on when check with IR temp gun.

Quadzilla comes with gauges... I prefer the external gauges... Stand alone and do not use the stock sensors. I went with ISSPro EV2 because they are programmable and you can set the wwarning lamps to come on at certain values. Like my EGT's set for >1,200, Boost is set for >45 PSI, Fuel pressure is set for <13 PSI, Trans temp is set for >225F. Then you can calibrate the brightness of the gauges to match your dash, then also set the needle reaction speed. Just plug in and flash...