Mopar1973Man

Your on the right track then.

That's one thing I don't miss. This is the very first truck without broke hub locks, messy damn bearing that needed packing all the time, broken wheel joints. When you look back in history Dodge had several 4WD drive vehicles with all the time four wheel drive and solid hubs. Typically those vehicles rare had issues. Had several friends with the "all the time 4WD" Dodge vehicles. So in 356k miles I replaced 2 sets of unit bearings not shabby. The people with big oversized tires like 35-inch and up should be in this realm being the unit bearing are not designed for big heavy oversize tires and huge offsets. This is just way too much leverage force on the unit bearing.

The LED lights came. Nothing hard to change out the three lights in the truck. The overhead console is a bit of a trick in the garage door side is the clips push them to the front. As you do that you want to pull down slightly and start pushing the entire console back. There is only 4 Phillips screws holding the light assembly in place. Make sure to lube the switch with silicone spray and check your bulb polarity before assembly by just plugging back into power quick.

If you did have 0.1 ohms and both elements are powered that would be 240 amp draw. Even at 0.1 ohm and single element at 120 amps is 25 over the mark. One element should be 95 amps which would be 0.126315789 ohms. I can't explain it but a warm element has higher ohms.

Here you go the actual washable performance oil filter for Cummins... https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-7960-hubb-reusable-oil-filter-89-18-dodge-cummins.aspx Manufactures website... https://www.hubbfilters.com/ https://www.hubbfilters.com/oil-filters/ Oh... I really like your GIF there @AH64ID ... You same reaction is the same reason I will never use a washable air filter these truck. The only thing I own with a washable filter is my Honda ATV which is the OEM air filter by Honda. VW beetle. From the 60's and 70's... Took a minute...

@IBMobile Grid heater measures out at 0.1 ohm cold after been heated and quickly checked its roughly 0.5 Ohms and sinks back to 0.1 ohms as it cools. As for alternator performance is capable of jumping right up to 14.5 volts right away as the grid heaters kick out. As for AC noise, I'm measuring 10mV AC WITHOUT grid heater running and 29mV AC WITH grid heater running. Still, the alternator is in excellent condition. Still very concerning to feel the amount of heat given off by the diodes. Battery at rest was 12.65 volts this morning. Batteries took a beating but still holding a good charge. After starting the alternator can bounce right up to 14.5 volts no problem. The only thing I've not done is find out the orange/black and the yellow/black wires and when they function.

That right there would keep any engine cleaner. I know those have been proven for YEARS to do a way better job of filtering out debris and soot over a bypass filter but typically a spinner filter is a pricey add on. http://www.spinnerii.com/index.cfm/div/65/Industrial Technically that could be considered a bypass filter. So this isn't like a fair comparison being the spinner is involved.

I typically wash the engine down when cool. I don't directly hit the alternator straight on with full 3,000 PSI. But no different than driving through a rainstorm or snowstorm where water is pulled through by the fan and splatters on the alternator. Like I've got 6 months of that coming of flooded highways and wet snowfall. Yeah that is true. Being they have been ran DEAD twice. They are not the 750 CCA rating no longer but are starting just fine for the time being. I'll check them with a volt meter today and see what the overnight draw is like.

Here we go with synthetic cleaning again. I never had any those problem with doing valve lash on any diesel where I had to scrub the soot out of my hands. Like even on my own I can just wipe my hands with a rag and then wash with soap and water and done. Again just plain ol' petroleum engine oil nothing special. Now yes I've seen even what you are talking about where the oil is so full of soot that it like pen ink anything you touch is stained black instantly.

When it just the diodes that are failing the cost of the diodes. Never had brush failure yet. Then one case failure and one bearing failure. (OE alternator). The rest where all diodes failures last year 3 alternators during the winter time one only lasted only one month and diodes blew out. I've burned up 5 of those. A couple did not even make it out of the store dead in the box. Ended up going to another store. Currently, I've got Autozone lifetime right now and it's holding up. Last winter when Installed this one I pulled the grid heater and it stopped the alternator failures for the rest of the winter. This last summer did the W-T ground wire mod. Now, this winter I'm going back to using the grid heaters and seeing if I can figure this diode failure out. Eventually, the diodes will overheat and fail. When you can fry diodes out of an alternator the only reason is high loads. The only thing with high loads is the grid heaters. Which I proved already if you leave the grid heater unplugged then the alternator failures stop. Like I've said in previous post why is my 1996 Dodge 1500 alternator which is 22 years old and never been replaced and OE yet still going? No high loads or grid heaters. I know Ibmobile is working on a grid heater switch that id Ca. EPA compliant where it does not throw codes.

Doesn't matter really when you realize that the very same diode I sell is most likely the very same diodes used in rebuilt units. Either install my diodes or get a rebuilt alternator with the same diodes.

Seriously...???

There grid heater technically is not grounded there it own body. The aluminum housing that holds the element. There is a single stud that passes out of the aluminum body and this stud is on the front side of the grid heater. Single lead looped around to the inside front mounting bolt. Being the gaskets between the manifold to the grid heater and the grid heater to the air horn there is no contact for ground. So to prevent arcing from weak ground this lead on the front is added to give a solid ground for the grid heaters. This is the ground for the grid heater. The two studs on the back at the two power leads.

Ground wire. All truck have this one wire in the front that fastened to the grid heater mounting bolt. Yeah, its the ground wire. The two wires on the rear are the power wires from the solenoids.

Don't trust the dash gauge is not accurate. Mechanical gauge will prove this quickly.

Here is a good article to read about making a good or bad fuel additive for anti-gel purpose. http://www.mining.com/web/the-right-way-and-the-wrong-way-to-build-a-good-diesel-fuel-winterization-additive/

The grid heater do not ground through the body. That is insulated by ceramic or something. The ground is the lead bolted down on the front side. The twin studs are your power leads. Typically the only time both grid heaters are hot is during the pre-heat cycle for 190 Amp draw. After the engine is started then it's typically only one element running for 95 Amp draw. (Thinking out loud and educated guessing) I wonder if there is a weird ground issue or problem where its possible for both solenoids to fire during the post heat cycle? Yellow/Black and the Orange/Black go back to the ECM and supply the positive signal to fire the solenoids. According to the Dodge FSM the G115 is a direct connection with the battery ground. Assuming on the driver side. Still in all, there is the joint connector in the PDC (weak connection, bad ground point?) To get information correct. I'm going to have to test and see what lead (OR/BLK and YEL/BLK) does what during what time (pre or post heat). Verify my ground to the battery is good from point to point. (Solenoid to the joint connector and then on to the battery). Verify the voltage at the solenoid is actually 12V (which it should be). Then ohm test the grid heater as well to see what I get for measurement for @IBMobile . @W-T gave us the ground wire mod now I'm going to get the grid heater fix. (or at least a good attempt too...)

Back in time, years ago that was a really popular solution by the dealers.

Yes. A lot of people got the retro-fit in-tank lift pump then had it fail and then stack on an external lift pump. So yes it's possible to see two lift pumps on a truck. Matter of fact Dodge even has an add-on double pump kit. The first pump was controlled from the ECM as normal then the second pump controlled by an oil pressure switch. Typically the second pump was on the driver side frame rail.

That is true if I unhook the grid heater the diodes stay very cool. Still, back the problem why did I get 10 plus years of service from the alternator with no issues. Now diodes are constantly overheating and failing? What has changed about the grid heaters to make the diodes overheat? Never had that issue with the truck brand new.

Even synthetic blinker fluid!

Correct. From 1994 Dodge started installed two batteries which were group 65's from that point on. 3rd Gen has a different battery.

When I get home. Ill see.

Mine get 6 hours off charge time every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday with my 250 mile trip. Now those who live in town barely drive 3 to 7 miles to work are not doing the batteries any good. Now in the cold batteries resist being charged this is why the charge voltage jobs to 14.8 or so to force the batteries to warm up.