Mopar1973Man

@IBMobile is correct. This is controlled by the PCM and will be hot after tach signal is seen. So you should do your testing with the engine running.

Yup, I'm going to be heading toward Parma, ID Monday evening. I'm going to be hauling the RV back after I get done with jobs I'm trying to get lined up right now for being down there. I've got a few things to handle down in Parma ID and Nampa ID. So I might be holed up at the RV for the storm.

How To Display Engine Hours On The Odometer What Is Needed Ignition Keys Procedure This is an easy process to check the total hours on the engine. First off insert your ignition key and turn the key on but do not start. Quickly pressed and hold the trip button until the odometer display switches over to displaying hours. You'll know that the hours are being displayed. The odometer display shows the Hr prefix for the hour number displayed. Purpose If you happen to be using your truck in a manner that has extended idle times or possible PTO usage or using an 12-volt electric winch where the truck is idling for an extended period you can base your maintenance off the hour meter instead of the odometer which will not account for extended idling times. Full Article with video for subscribing members View full Cummins article

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That putty might not last very long with turbo heat. There is epoxy putty that will actually bind and harden.

Yes sir I just tested this on Thor and works perfectly.

This is really simple to do. First off turn on your ignition but do not start. Now quickly press and hold the trip button down for at least 5 to 10 seconds. The hour meter should be displayed in the odometer with Hr and then the number of hours next. This way you can base your maintenance on hours if you tend to idle quite a bit.

Sorry for the lag in posting this I'm rather limited at times and try to do what I can being I'm at home with good internet its easy for me to get all the goodies out for links.

Nice. I'm dying to see this thing done... I really think it will be an awesome truck for you.

I've got to ask did you add the right amount of PAG-100 oil to the compressor? IIRC the 2nd Gen 24V holds 5 or 6 ozs of PAG-100 oil. This can be added through the plug in the side of the body. I'm seeing some compressors being tagged with a label stating that the compressor is pre-loaded with 3 ozs of oil from the factory so make sure you subtract that from the total oil that you add. Excessive oil will decrease the A/C performance also you might hydro-lock the compressor and might vent pressure and oil out the back blow-off vent. WARNING: Don't pull the plug on the compressor while charged you will regret that quickly. Not to mention the plug I think is against the block side. WARNING: Excessive amount of oil could cause the compressor to explode. This could be very damaging I've seen a tech video of a VW that exploded and distroyed the headlight and lots of other stuff. As for the amount of charge, I typically look for 35 to 40 PSI on the low side and about 210 to 270 PSI high side based on outside temperatures. I always tell my clients to put the vehicle out in the sun. Then let the cab get nice and hot this way I can charge it for its working conditions and typically I can get the output temperatures much lower. But if the compressor is cycling that's a sign of being undercharged and hitting the low-temperature limit and it will kick out the compressor. As for sounds. I like some of the guy's suggestions like spraying the belt with a bit of WD-40 and seeing if the sound changes. As for bearing noises I typically would pull the belt and feel for rough bearings. Even @IBMobile idea of the hose is great and would allow you to listen for bearing noise. Still, be careful working around moving parts.

So... Let's look at the facts of an injector. What can you change about an injector? Nozzle size and hole count Pop pressure As far as I know, the body of the injector typically doesn't change at all. The rest of the internal parts other than the nozzle and pintle are machine as a matched pair. Again the hole count and hole size can be changed and then the pop pressure.

@Tractorman is correct I'm typically rolling my trucks over the scales and checking weights and see how the weight is on the axles. Here is a good example of Thor. I was down in Parma ID doing work down there and saw a open truck scale and stopped in and scaled the truck for both front and rear axles. This scale is down in Nyssa OR. I was stopping in to the local NAPA for parts but since the scale was right on the main road why not? Front Axle Rear Axle 4,900 pounds + 4,150 pounds = 9,050 pounds total on Thor between front and rear axles.

Best to remove the VP44 to get the room. I've got an article on doing the tappet cover. You don't have to remove the vacuum pump or p/s pump.

Yup. All I can say is make sure to hit a alignment rack and have them adjust the track bar to get true straight thrust angle. If you do like a 2 inch leveling kit it will push the axle down and towards the driver side. Being you not using a lift kit then you technically would not need a adjustable track bar unless you are planning a lift kit the do both lower control arms adjustable and track that is adjustable. This way you can set caster and thrust angle correctly.

I would start with a bit of reading and testing and see what you can figure out a bit more. Keep us up to date if you are really stumped let me know and I'll see what I can help out with in a phone call or Zoom meeting.

Using my clients truck for the photo. This round spot is the drain that pokes out the firewall. The evaporator is just above this drain so moisture that sweats off the evaporator can drain outside. So verify that this is not broken. Other than that check the HVAC box fasteners there are nuts on the engine side. Do not over torque you can pull t he studs out of the HVAC case. There is two inside but you need to remove the dash to reach.

Look under the passengers side foot well do you see any part of the case broken? That drain is under the evaporator which is just left of the blower motor from the passenger perspective. Should be a low spot with what looks like a round flat spot this is the drain going out.

Maybe it would nice that I don't have to fix thousands of trucks with the same issue. This is my next customer while I'm camped out in Parma ID. Let's say I've learned how to do it right from all the mistakes I fix on my customers trucks. Being I do learn what not to do why would I do something to create issues? Then ask why do my clients come to me and ask me to fix it? Yup that is Thor to the left of the pic.

Yeah I need to buy some tools. The bore scope and compression tester with the injector adapter.

Just extend the drain nipple with another piece of vinyl tubing or rubber hose. That should help drain the water outside. The HVAC box is bolted to the firewall so if it was pushed back it would break the bottom of the case.

Only reason these truck "sucks" is because of improper setup. Bigger tire ruins the final ratio. Then wider tire tire increase leverage force on ball joints and tie rod stress. Funny that I've never experienced any of these issues even with nearly 500k miles.

Yeah, I've got to get Thor in line performance-wise to keep up with Beast. This is absolutely shameful for me to be cruising around in Thor and it's barely able to do 50% of the speed and MPG that Beast can do. I want to look deeper into the morning misfire issues. Once it's warmed up just a little bit the misfire and white smoke stops completely. I'm thinking of getting a smaller bore scope so I can get into the cylinders on a Cummins and also picking up a compression gauge and dud injector so I can test the compression. Damn CR injectors and washing rings out I'm pretty sure. Maybe a bleed down of fuel or air issues maybe. Might even be a weak or failed lift pump. I'm just spit balling for now but when I get home I can really tear into it and really start to dig in.

As far as I know even Beast is 5V signal on the fuel sender which comes from the PCM.

Already have a video clip to process for the wiring repair for the trailer brake lead to the back of the truck. Then in the Elite article section I already have the cluster article for wild tach issues. More to come.