Mopar1973Man

Look up the ratios for each gear and see what the ratios are. This means much more than number of gears.

Consider the fact I can launch out of 2nd or 3rd gear (little tall). Then I can be in 4th gear by 25 MPH, then hit 5th gear (overdrive) and bury the tach at like 110 MPH. That's 3.69:1 final ratio after tires. Nv4500 in top gear is 0.75:1 ratio. 47RE in top gear 0.68:1 ratio.

Something to be aware of... I know a few members did Allison transmission which is 6 speeds and the final ratio in the top gear is too low of ratio in the RPM's will be too low running down the road. Optimally you should see about 2k RPM's at about 65 MPH. It will not hurt to run 2,450 RPM even at 80 MPH which I'm currently set up for with my 5 speed. Being too low in the RPM range while running the highway will be an issue, being the timing will be more retarded and create higher EGT's. Cummins ISB is actually designed to be ran at about 1,800 to 2,500 RPM's from their own specs. The other problem I see a lot is the members with larger tires on 3.55 axles and this will net you higher EGT's and lower MPG's. For example 35 inch tires on 3.55 gears will create a final of roughly 3.27:1 to the ground. The final ratio does matter... The other that was popular years ago was the addon over drive box (Gear Vendors) this did the same thing most people tried using the extra overdrive and dropped the RPM's too low and now EGT's sored, MPG fell.

Agreed. I will do that and see if the track bar moves. Typically the inner steel sleeve in the bushing is a bit wider and got some teeth on the tip to bite into the ear when tightened. These seem to be smooth from the factory (assuming).

My new sender came yesterday. Now all I got to do is install the fuel pressure sender and see what happens... Stay tuned I'll report back soon.

Hey there gang... I ran into a clunking noise that was associated with the track bar which we can see the bar moving. After inspection of the bar which Mark did for me. Come to find out that the track bar was not properly tightened last time it was installed. It managed to wear a little bit and was banging back and forth on the bolts. Bushing appear to be fine but was capable of moving just a bit and making a clunk. Now after just looking it over and reinstalling and getting the bolts tight, the clunk is gone now. Thor is going to be hauling a trailer today and then returning. My renter Mark is going to make the run for me so I can handle chasing parts for the other job I've got here. I figured I would share this tidbit so you might want to check suspension tightness to ensure it's not a replacement problem but make sure the hardware is properly tightened.

I've done one trans swap here. Converted from a 47RE automatic to a NV4500 5 speed. I did it in 2 days with the help of the truck owner. Not too bad of a project.

Shoot, Shovel, Shut up.

Three S rule... A simple solution to a problem.

If it was me I would buy a ISSPro EV2 Transmission Temperature gauge, ISSPro EV2 programming cable and then the optional relay addon. Now Hook up the ISSPro as usual with the temperature probe in the pan of the transmission. Now I would program the transmission temp warning light for 220 or so. I would set the optional relay for say 160 degree. So now that relay will turn on the cooling fan for your transmission cooler. Being programable you can adjust your fan on and off times and so forth. So now your transmission temperature gauge controls the fan for you. Totally programmable!

Yeah, the post above is a possible solution to a starter issue. Myself I have an alternator shop in Nampa ID I visit for my alternator and starter parts if needed. Now I can drop off an alternator or starter and have them rebuilt which I did last time with my OEM starter and found out the windings on the armature were burned. Make sure to have the starter tested before investing money into rebuild parts to only find out you might have a burned winding in the housing or in the armature and would really kind of suck to dump money on a starter to find out it still not going to work 100%. As for my supplier, I deal with DuroBilt out of Nampa ID. Durobilt 215 1st Ave S, Nampa, ID 83651 (208) 466-7814

Finally I had a fuel pressure sensor fail on my ISSPro EV2. On my trip to observe my fuel pressure got irratic and then started to climb. I got off the I84 and pulled in a truck stop. Shut down. Key back on and the needle swept to zero then back to 25 PSI. Airdog was not running should be zero pressure. Pulled the sensor lead and turned the key on again then the gauge swept to zero and then back to straight down this is a sign of missing sensor. Ok. So I know I've got a bad sensor. On my way over to Parma ID I called @dieselautopower and ordered me a new fuel pressure sensor. I'll post more on the diagnostics when I get home.

Well just to enlighten you. I'm still on my OEM turbo HX35W still with +150 HP injectors (7 x 0.010). Injectors wise I can most likely get you a deal on some injectors. Even a small upgrade in power. Quadzilla would improve the MPG by ditching the stock ECM tune. Might take a peek at what my store has... https://store.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24-valve/fuel-system/reman-vco-injectors.html https://store.mopar1973man.com/quadzilla-adrenaline-with-iquad-for-01-02-cummins.html

Ummm... That's why I'm building custom tunes for my members. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/182-mopar1973mans-custom-tunes/

Timing. When all the fuel is burned in the cylinder and nothing is left then when the exhaust occurs there is little expanding gases hence lower EGTs. Retard timing which will have burning and expanding gases enter the turbo which now creates boost also. But a part of those gases are wasted creating boost. So at 66 MPH I'm at 2k RPMs. In cruise state I'm at about 24° BTDC then when I get into power a little then the timing drops to 17° BTDC. Now with the Quadzilla on zero, now I'm at 17° BTDC at cruise state same speed and RPM. Under power it drops to 12° BTDC. Now it's got smoke and higher EGTs. Because fuel is wasted in building boost and more fire wasted out the exhaust.

Still to this day there has not been any other headlight package that I've found that can out perform Morimoto D2S headlights. These have the largest path of light over any other set up. Using half as much power.

Rather tough for me. Now with my Quadzilla on its totally clean, no smoke. Now select level zero Now ive got a dirty Beast. Sad part is the power is greatly reduced, and EGTs are higher, timing heavily retarded. Made that mistake yesterday being I used the Quadzilla high idle to jump start a Chevy Suburan. I forgot to turn it back to Level 3. I figured this out by Payeete ID. Then I notice my MPG returned, EGTs dropped, smoke was gone. Funny part if I raced on my tune I'll most likely whip a "dirty girl" truck. This is where Beast shines best.

@Evan would this transmission guy like to join our little family of Dodge Trucks?

I paid close to 700 dollars for Morimoto HIDs with D2S lens kit. Completely ready to go just bolt on and plug in. Plus I put rush next day shipping to get them ASAP. https://retroshop.us/collections/2nd-gen-ram/products/2g-ram-hid-projector-retrofitted-headlights

Yeah it is. @Sycostang67 did a wrap and change the color.

Sadly it was the change over between the old subscription system and the new one that got @Evan snagged. Im glad i could help him get back online. If you have any issues please call me. Ill do my best to fix the issue.

So... just an tidbit of info. I'm running 7 x 0.010 injector (+150 HP) that are popped at 320 bar which is +10 over stock. I'm still running a stock HX35W turbo all on the ISB. EGTs are low. Your asking how... The biggest factor is proper timing but since P-pump has no dynamic timing this is limiting you. I'm currently run about 24.5 degrees BTDC at 2k RPM at cruise about 2 to 3 PSI of boost, 550 EGTs. But under heavy throttle dropping to 17 degrees BTDC at 2k RPM now building boost never even getting to 1,200 EGTs. When you advance timing your burning more fuel in the cylinder and EGTs will drop. When you retard your using some of that burning fuel to spool the turbo and EGTs will rise. So in your setup up you'll need to work with your timing to get a balance giving enough to launch and spool enough to control smoke and build boost, then advanced enough so EGTs are under control. I would suggest advancing slightly. Wouldn't hurt to look at different fuel plate profiles that fuel more so in the higher boost range. Other problem is stock injectors will not have enough fuel to spool twins properly. I've shown I can control EGTs with +150 HP injectors on a stock HX35W turbo and hold low EGTs. https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZT8dfYGYK/ Older tune but still low EGTs. https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZT8dfSdHb/

I'm guessing your talking about the manifold flange. They are rated like 2nd Gen is a T3 flange. Might be a T4 flange. I would call DAP and ask them for the flange size. They might have the adapter for such.

I've got to say Thank you to @Auto Computer Specialist which they supplied me wiring diagrams for this Ford Bus. I'm starting to wonder if it's a PCM issue being we are not getting trigger to turn on the fuel pump power. The code I've got is for hi volt when the key is off. Again there is no power even at the pump.

Ok so we got a new alternator and voltage regulator. Now the fan belt is too loose. I've got to get a new belt. Still all this the alternator is still over charging. The only thing I can think of is the green wire has a ground issue and going to replace the green wire. The blue wire has good +12V as for the green if it getting ground somewhere the alternator to run wild. Gotta figure this all out.