Mopar1973Man

Well just to enlighten you. I'm still on my OEM turbo HX35W still with +150 HP injectors (7 x 0.010). Injectors wise I can most likely get you a deal on some injectors. Even a small upgrade in power. Quadzilla would improve the MPG by ditching the stock ECM tune. Might take a peek at what my store has... https://store.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24-valve/fuel-system/reman-vco-injectors.html https://store.mopar1973man.com/quadzilla-adrenaline-with-iquad-for-01-02-cummins.html

Ummm... That's why I'm building custom tunes for my members. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/182-mopar1973mans-custom-tunes/

Timing. When all the fuel is burned in the cylinder and nothing is left then when the exhaust occurs there is little expanding gases hence lower EGTs. Retard timing which will have burning and expanding gases enter the turbo which now creates boost also. But a part of those gases are wasted creating boost. So at 66 MPH I'm at 2k RPMs. In cruise state I'm at about 24° BTDC then when I get into power a little then the timing drops to 17° BTDC. Now with the Quadzilla on zero, now I'm at 17° BTDC at cruise state same speed and RPM. Under power it drops to 12° BTDC. Now it's got smoke and higher EGTs. Because fuel is wasted in building boost and more fire wasted out the exhaust.

Still to this day there has not been any other headlight package that I've found that can out perform Morimoto D2S headlights. These have the largest path of light over any other set up. Using half as much power.

Rather tough for me. Now with my Quadzilla on its totally clean, no smoke. Now select level zero Now ive got a dirty Beast. Sad part is the power is greatly reduced, and EGTs are higher, timing heavily retarded. Made that mistake yesterday being I used the Quadzilla high idle to jump start a Chevy Suburan. I forgot to turn it back to Level 3. I figured this out by Payeete ID. Then I notice my MPG returned, EGTs dropped, smoke was gone. Funny part if I raced on my tune I'll most likely whip a "dirty girl" truck. This is where Beast shines best.

@Evan would this transmission guy like to join our little family of Dodge Trucks?

I paid close to 700 dollars for Morimoto HIDs with D2S lens kit. Completely ready to go just bolt on and plug in. Plus I put rush next day shipping to get them ASAP. https://retroshop.us/collections/2nd-gen-ram/products/2g-ram-hid-projector-retrofitted-headlights

Yeah it is. @Sycostang67 did a wrap and change the color.

Sadly it was the change over between the old subscription system and the new one that got @Evan snagged. Im glad i could help him get back online. If you have any issues please call me. Ill do my best to fix the issue.

So... just an tidbit of info. I'm running 7 x 0.010 injector (+150 HP) that are popped at 320 bar which is +10 over stock. I'm still running a stock HX35W turbo all on the ISB. EGTs are low. Your asking how... The biggest factor is proper timing but since P-pump has no dynamic timing this is limiting you. I'm currently run about 24.5 degrees BTDC at 2k RPM at cruise about 2 to 3 PSI of boost, 550 EGTs. But under heavy throttle dropping to 17 degrees BTDC at 2k RPM now building boost never even getting to 1,200 EGTs. When you advance timing your burning more fuel in the cylinder and EGTs will drop. When you retard your using some of that burning fuel to spool the turbo and EGTs will rise. So in your setup up you'll need to work with your timing to get a balance giving enough to launch and spool enough to control smoke and build boost, then advanced enough so EGTs are under control. I would suggest advancing slightly. Wouldn't hurt to look at different fuel plate profiles that fuel more so in the higher boost range. Other problem is stock injectors will not have enough fuel to spool twins properly. I've shown I can control EGTs with +150 HP injectors on a stock HX35W turbo and hold low EGTs. https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZT8dfYGYK/ Older tune but still low EGTs. https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZT8dfSdHb/

I'm guessing your talking about the manifold flange. They are rated like 2nd Gen is a T3 flange. Might be a T4 flange. I would call DAP and ask them for the flange size. They might have the adapter for such.

I've got to say Thank you to @Auto Computer Specialist which they supplied me wiring diagrams for this Ford Bus. I'm starting to wonder if it's a PCM issue being we are not getting trigger to turn on the fuel pump power. The code I've got is for hi volt when the key is off. Again there is no power even at the pump.

Ok so we got a new alternator and voltage regulator. Now the fan belt is too loose. I've got to get a new belt. Still all this the alternator is still over charging. The only thing I can think of is the green wire has a ground issue and going to replace the green wire. The blue wire has good +12V as for the green if it getting ground somewhere the alternator to run wild. Gotta figure this all out.

Sounds like a plan.

Yeah, I know this is the same vehicle as the clutch switch but I wanted to split these two topics up for explanation reasons. Now I will tell you that if you have a problem keeping the voltage regulator and they just don't last very long like in the case of this truck the first regulator failed just about instantly. The second voltage regulator failed after about 5 minutes and fail with overcharging. Now my client admits he bought an Amazon Alternator. I was smart and had the alternator test before installing the regulators in the first place. I ohm test all the electrical with a DVM. All good. The problem is that even though the alternator passed the test the only thing I can see is the field winding has a ohm measurement of 60 ohms. I think this is a bit too low causing the field to draw more power than normal being the regulator circuit can't handle said load it fries out and shorts the green wire to the ground which in turn now produces high charge voltage. Being the blue wire is keyed hot +12V power passing to the alternator the only control is the ground. So I'm at the point of replacing both the alternator and the voltage regulator again. I'm supposed to have the alternator in today at the local Chevron Station. Let's see what happens with a new alternator.

Oh boy. One of the local raft companies had an fuel issue more or less thinking fuel pump. First thing I checked was for power at the fuel tank sender but there is zero power. Checked fuses and relays. Then checked the interia switch in the passenger side foot well, which has no power. I'm starting to think there is a electronics issue. I pulled out my code reader and ran the KOEO test which turn out P0232 which is fuel circuit hi code. I did find a wiring diagram that shows a fuel pump driver module. Suppose to be at the rear on the frame. I've not found said fuel pump driver module. I'll takeaway help I can get.

Just aheads up if you are looking for a clutch switch, these switches are ranging from 150 to 180 dollars. Very spendy. In my case the switch was still good but who ever installed the clutch master cylinder forgot the backing washer for the switch. The clutch switch was sliding into the head of the master cylinder which prevented the starter from cranking. Mark, he found out a Poweraid cap would fit perfectly and now the switch has a backing washer. Correcting the start up issue.

Interresting. You got me to follow your ECM build. Oh did you upgrade MAP sensors to get wider range of boost to fuel tables?

No joke. Got to wonder on your tune now? Did you get the error codes in the code?

Yeah I totally get that my spring has been below average for jobs. Now the weather warmed up now I'm getting busy. Heck with business it's the 4th of July weekend. I'm going to enjoy myself camped out in Parma ID.

Go get a Hot Rod. That is wonderful for handling rusted or frozen bolts or nuts.

With my talent for working on these trucks and doing A/C work, I can make the A/C cold I've measured temperatures of at least 35 to 38 degrees. Heater wise I can burn you out with vent temperatures at about 160 degrees. But as for the storage tray, it is six of one and half dozen of the other. Some have the option and others don't.

Soon as we both have about one hour or so of free time. We will do it.

P1689 is a communication problem between the ECM and VP44. So you will need to test the wiring between the ECM and the VP44 with an ohm meter to verify the wiring is good. Should be 5 ohms or less. Then another test is a black probe on the battery ground and the red probe and touch each of the VP44 pins with the ECM still unplugged. These should all be infinite ohms. This just proves no wires are shorted to ground. Double check the fuel pump relay in the PDC bad contacts or weak power could cause the P1689. Beyond that then the PSG on the VP44 could be bad which would require VP44 replacement.

Not true. Being that Quadzilla drops out and the ECM controls the idle. At an idle the ECM controls the timing and fuel directly. Once RPMs rise above about 1,200 RPMs then Quadilla takes over and uses it timing anf fueling maps. Like my 7 x 0.010 injectors popped at 320 bar (+10 bar over stock) it idles today at about 7% to 9% when they were new injectors the engine load was closer to 13% to 14%. Still in all at an idle, the timing is controlled by the ECM but the fuel is controlled by the IVS switch in the APPS which flips the ground for the IDLE and then the ECM ignores the APPS values and uses ECM software to hit 800 RPM idle. This is due to the stock fuel map not being designed for oversized injectors. Beast is a little picky launching and may stall if you just ease out on the clutch. This is due to the fuel map being wrong on the ECM and the timing map was designed for stock injectors since the Quadzilla is not active at RPMs below 1,200 RPM it's very possible to have this issue. With larger injectors, you need more timing hence why I'm running 24.5 degrees at 2,000 RPMs. You're correct the duration is much shorter but that same amount of fuel was blasted in quicker and needs more time to heat the mist, to vapor, bit more to go BANG!