Mopar1973Man

Should be vacuum controlled for defrosters. Also, if you disconnect the vacuum it should default to defrost mode automatically. So if you can reach defrost mode that means something is blocking the door from swinging for defrost mode.

Here is the one I've got... http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Muffler-H-D-Truck/_/R-EXT21468_0006446325

Window was rolled down at the start and then rolled up near the end... At 36 seconds I rolled up the window.

Maybe you should have tried them after Sear quit warranty them. Apparently the quality improved for me to have them for so long.

Just for a point of reference... I've been running Rancho RS5000 shocks now for over 100k miles of both off-road and on-highway and still working excellent. I might have to try the Bilstein 5100 next. Kind of pricey just doing a general search on the Internet.

I hate to say it, but you would want a smaller set of jumper cables for the vehicle.

Must be some of that Mag Chloride from the highway doing that...

Not ignored by me... I know to a certain extent that yes you can suck the heat out of the engine. It can be done by cranking the temperature knob to HOT and fan on HI and the block temperature will start to fall while the truck is idling at a stop. The reason behind this there is no thermostat to the heater core and it will continue to dump as much heat as the fan will allow. The fact remains under power at road speeds the block temperature should still rise above 190*F and hold good temperature other wise. I know for my truck if the cab temperature is comfortable and the temperature knob is about middle and fan is on the 2nd Speed setting I'll never drop below 188*F while out and about in the winter.

Some vehicles have a RED positive post for jumping from and others have the grounding spot that you mention. Some vehicles you really can't even reach the battery because of all the brackets or location of the battery.

I typically use canopy weather stripping for resealing the evaporator which works pretty well. Heater core can use some too but pretty thin stuff.

In those cases, I like to hook the ground last to the block or frame metal on the other vehicle.

Suggested to do both then there is no generatio of power anywhere.

That's about it right there. Nothing really left.

I want to bring your attention to heat core servicing. I know there is a thread over on CF explaining on how to do the short cut method where you cut the tube ends and hose clamp inside the truck. This gets around the idea of having to recharge the A/C. I would like to advise against this method being so far the HVAC I've open in the years all them are truly funky looking with everything from mice nest to like this one with packed hay and road dust. If you going to do a heat core do it right and take care of everything. This includes the stepper motor for the blend door, dust and debris on the system, check your blower motor for problem and resistor.

Absolutely Perfect!

Good thermostat should be completely closed by 188*F on a live data tool.

Myself... If I'm jumping others I woud start with the RED leads and hook my positives up on both vehicles. Then hook up both BLACK lead on my negatives or make my last connection to the ngine block of the dead vehicle. I would set my 6 CYL high idle mode. Then sit back and wait at least 5 minutes minimum for the high idle to charge the dead vehicle a bit before telling the driver to try starting. Once started I reverse out of my set up taking my grounds first then my positives. This way you never have a point of arcing cables. Watch for a lot of GM/Chevy vehicles have stupid side post. Usually, they will have a POS connector under an RED plastic cover for jump starting. That's one thing I've never done yet for my truck. Is having to jump start my truck. I've NEVER had a dead battery!

Man, you have no idea how much of up hill battle it is with tinfoil, grounds and relocation of grounds. Over on CF its a never ending battle of goffy people still listening to that same old stupid idea tinfoil fixes torque converter problems.

I just hook them up. Just be sure of polarity. That is the only mistake that will wipe out an alternator. The other question are you needing a jump start or are you giving jumps to others?

Here is the Holset Service manual for you. HX30_32_35_38_40_GW-1.pdf The only thing I ask is would you document your rebuild with lots of pictures. I would love to have a turbo rebuild article produced for the site.

More or less get what you paid for... $20 bucks isn't a whole lot of quality there.

If it was me I would pull the turbo and rebuild it yourself. The bearing kits are about $100 or so. Look for Holset Bearings no cheap china stuff here. While the turbo is off, look and see how far that oil went into the system if it reached the intercooler you going to have to pull the radiator and the intercooler to wash the intercooler out with solvent. As for the metal, it could be piston wear to from the ingested dust from the crappy K&N filter. This you can do a compression test to verify the health of each cylinder.

I remember those days... Dave is right the mirrors don't get hot or even warm to the touch. Just warm enough to shed the frost or ice. They do also get warm enough to help dry the mirrors of but it takes quite awhile to do.

I'd love to see this done with lots of pictures.

I'm running a 30" NAPA muffler and love it. I've also done a 4" Diamond Eye exhaust on a 1995 Dodge that sounds about the same. Also running a 30" muffler from Diamond Eye.