Mopar1973Man
Owner
-
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
-
P0106 INLET AIR PRESSURE SENSOR RATIONALITY When Monitored and Set Condition: When Monitored: When the ignition is on. Set Condition: The Inlet air pressure is above a calibrated threshold. POSSIBLE CAUSES INLET AIR PRESSURE SENSOR INTERMITTENT CONDITION TROUBLESHOOT OTHER DTC'S FIRST DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE NOTE: Refer to VERIFICATION TESTS for appropriate verification test procedures.Using the DRBIII®, check for additional DTC's. Do you have any other air pressure related DTC's? Yes --> Troubleshoot other DTC's First. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). No --> Go To 2 Using the DRBIII®, monitor the Inlet air pressure sensor values. Do the readings on the DRBIII® fluctuate slightly? Yes --> Refer to the SYMPTOM: INTERMITTENT CONDITION Symptom (Diagnostic Procedure). Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). No --> Replace the Inlet Air Temperature/ Pressure sensor. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). -
P0088 FUEL RAIL PRESSURE SIGNAL IS ABOVE MAX LIMIT When Monitored and Set Condition: When Monitored: Engine running. Set Condition: Fuel pressure is above a calibrated value for a calibrated amount of time. POSSIBLE CAUSES FUEL CONTROL ACTUATOR (FCA) FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR INTERMITTENT CONDITION DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE NOTE: Refer to VERIFICATION TESTS for appropriate verification test procedures. NOTE: This DTC will only clear by turning the ignition off. It is necessary to operate the engine for at least five seconds to verify the DTC will clear. Check for a mechanically stuck Fuel Control Actuator by turning the key switch on and off and listening for a click at the FCA. Do you hear a click from the actuator when the key is cycled off? Yes --> Go To 2 No --> Check the electrical connector of the Fuel Control Actuator, if the connection is tight, replace the fuel control actuator. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 2 (DIESEL). Using the DRBIII®, monitor the fuel pressure while operating the engine at several different RPM settings. Did the fuel pressure reading on the DRBIII® change? Yes --> Refer to the SYMPTOM: INTERMITTENT CONDITION Symptom (Diagnostic Procedure). Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 2 (DIESEL). No --> Replace the Fuel Pressure Sensor. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 2 (DIESEL).
-
So you are saying no wires are shorted to ground. This is good! Now with both unhooked do you have 0-5 ohms from sensor to ECM plugs?
-
Cummins Holset HX35 HY35 Silencer Ring Removal Your going to need two small flat screwdrivers to pry the snap ring out of the groove. As you see in the top picture one side has a tip that you can pry against. Once the snap ring is out just tip the silencer ring out. This is your turbo now without a silencer ring. Remember removing the silencer ring will not improve performance at all. There is no gain in horse power or torque numbers. This has been tested on a dyno and no improvements have been found from removing the silencer ring. But you will notice a whistling noise as the turbo spools up... That's it!
-
All ohm testing has to be done with both ECM and sensor unplugged.
-
You'll find the readjustment of the box will really tighten up a bunch more making nearly like a touchy steering. There is a sector adjustment and then the bearing pre-load adjustment. The bearing preload has to be done out of the vehicle. The bearing pre-load is the red collar and sets pre-load to the worm gear. Then the over the center (or sector adjustment) is no in view here but there is a jam nut and allen bolt on the other side that set the pre-load of the output shaft in the rack.
-
The only ground is the passenger side battery you need to worry about. APPS reset just set the lo and hi volt limits. As for the Edge you removed it completely and still ran poorly correct? If it was me I would remove it and leave it out for now. Then using a stand alone live data tool you can watch MAP and IAT signal in real time and see if there is any problems. Typically a Bad ECM would have a whole series of all hi or lo volt codes. Again VP44 could be typically most people have at least error codes. I would say start with the 2 error you got and work them out.
-
Did you re-adjust your gear box?
-
Normal good - 0.01 to 0.03 Marginal - 0.05 Fail - 0.1 As for marginal it can be varied answer. Some vehicles can go well up to near 0.1 without a issue and other start having TQ Converter lock up issues as low as 0.04. Lower is best.
-
According to that map I'm right on the edge.
-
Absolutely. If I had deep pockets and could afford the loan payments yeah I might go for newer truck. Since I took care of my truck and really don't have any major failures or issues it just easier to maintain what I've got than to invest in a newer truck and loan payments. Like Holy Cow the price of new truck vs. what my 2002 was brand new. I only paid $35k for mine. You can't even touch a new truck for that much unless its completely stripped. Then you look at maintenance cost and part prices you about fall over.
-
No... JAG1 is on the money... I typically work a two smoking gun rule in regards to parts. So far we got a weird throttle issue that point towards the ECM having issues. As for the alternator that would be cause of the ECM if so. But still no testing of the alternator has be done to verify anything. The part of the test you have to pay attention to is the AC voltage output. So if you start the truck and using a DVM and probe the BATT terminal on the alternator and the alternator case. Make sure you have a DVM that can measure down to 2 volts or less. The AC voltage should measure about 0.01 to 0.02 normal. 0.05 is marginal and might create issues. Anything above 0.1 is a fail. Grid heater will and do pull more power than the alternator can produce. When both elements are running its a 190 amp draw vs only 140 amp charge rate. As for the APPS... That I would look for a error code and see if anything pops up. If the APPS is damaged it will trip a error code but not always will it set the CHECK ENGINE light. Or if you got a live data tool you can watch the TPS value and see if it has weird spiking occurring.
-
ECM memory issue. If there is any delay to getting that WAIT TO START light to come on then the on board memory is damaged and its having issues booting up. This again points back to a damaged alternator. So then the weird throttle control is because the boot process is loading EPROM and the data is becoming corrupt on booting.
-
I'm assuming RED probe in the Cam sensor end and BLACK probe in the ECM end? or RED probe in the Cam sensor end and BLACK probe to ground?
-
I'm also holding out on my 2nd Gen trucks. Maintaining my current two is cheap than maintaining a 3rd or 4th gen when you start looking up parts and prices. We both agreed (MoparMom and myself) to hold on to our two 2nd gen trucks and fix them up. Yeah there is thing that will drive you crazy like my ABS issue but I will over come it. My plans are to drive my truck to the moon and back. By then it should be well wore out. 238k miles to the moon so I'm on my way back at 256k miles. Too bad you not closer to me I can fix most of what on your list without thinking.
-
Key trick doesn't work for 99. You must use a code reader to pull codes. The only year that actual works correctly is 2002 for the key trick. 98.5 and 99 don't work at all. 2000 might work but typically only shows the PCM. 2001 is also another year that might work and might not again only showing the PCM. 2002 will show both ECM and PCM. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/89-obdii-on-board-diagnostics-diagnostic-error-codes
-
Another trick to try to verify the alternator. Unplug the field lead on the back of the alternator (2 wire). Then remove the alternator fuse. Don't unhook the BATT lead on the alternator you risk blowing the alternator fuse just better to remove the fuse. Now go for a test drive and see if the weird problems continue or not. Another thing no one has ask is there any error codes? Just because there is no CHECK ENGINE light doesn't mean there isn't codes stored.
-
Question is the wait to start light coming on instantly with the key or does it have delays? You might test for AC noise issues from the alternator first off. What you describing is a ECM issue more so than a VP44 or APPS sensor issue. As for the IOD fuse that has like the radio memory, door light and things of that nature on it. (Fuse 12) power-dis.pdf
-
New Meadows, ID made it to total high of -5*F almost a heat wave.
-
No. Really easy to install the brush ring. Small screwdriver to hold back the brushes and slip it over the slip rings.
-
Another way is go to LarryB and buy the parts you need and rebuild the alternator yourself. There is just a few bearings, brushes, and diode pack. Most of this you can yourself. http://www.fostertruck.com/brushes-for-dodge-denso-alternator.html http://www.fostertruck.com/diode-pack-rectifier-bridge-for-dodge-denso-alternator.html http://www.fostertruck.com/alternator-bearing-for-dodge-cummins-denso-alternators-large.html http://www.fostertruck.com/alternator-bearing-for-dodge-cummins-denso-alternators-small.html
-
No. Just small screws holding everything together. If I was going to make a alternator package I would do the brushes and the diode pack.
-
Down right cold here... Smokey boulder is only like 8 miles from here. As for CSM if he wanted he could fly to Boise or airport down there. It nothing to make a trip to Boise anymore...
-
Why do all that... Just open in up and get a new diode pack from LarryB. http://www.fostertruck.com/diode-pack-rectifier-bridge-for-dodge-denso-alternator.html Takes less than 30 minutes to pull the alternator off the truck change the diode pack and reinstall. Super easy...
-
Ahhh... Racing is a different world that daily driver. What is happening is since the crank is typically turning so fast you need a high cetane fuel that can burn fast enough. If you used normal 40 cetane fuel it wouldn't burn fast enough in the downward stroke. Still there is a good loss of BTU content which is typically made up in overfueling the engine with large injectors. This is why you see most going down the track rolling coal smoke. Now if you look up the world largest diesel engine it runs on a very low cetane fuel and produces 108,920 hp but turns a max RPM of 102 RPM. That's a massive amount of power in very slow turning crank! Again the cetane has to be matched for the application. So for a daily driver that is typically low in the RPM spectrum you don't need high cetane fuels. Now maybe if you constant interstate running at 80-90 MPH turning high on the tach then you might want the high cetane but still in all it will impact your MPG number either by BTU content or by the wind drag or both. Dark Green summer fuel - Light green winter fuel Then if you want to dive on on the CARB and EPA spectrum then we can get into emissions and how high cetane fuel burn cleaner. Which is in your above post with the PDF points out. So still comes back to balancing act of low vs high cetane and getting the most from your fuel.
