Dieselfuture

Says here -40 to 300 https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2080.pdf I would think wrapping exhaust would matter more in town or slow driving, but on hwy wind will be under truck cooling things off maybe not. Once I will put cooler on driver side and filter on passenger side, then put my temp sensor in there for a while a year or so, then I'll wrap exhaust and see if it makes a difference. Unless I'll come up with more money to waist I might do it sooner.

Reason I think filter is a good idea, is that all them tiny particles that keep on going through the beatings and gears will just create more wear with time. So I'm hoping filter caches most of them and tranny and fluid will last longer. Almost like oil bypass filter taking small particles out of engine oil. It has to be better one way or another from not having cooler or filter this whole time. I do agree with Mike on colder temps, my tranny doesn't like shifting when coold, but I don't drive it in the winter that much anyway.

With all of the problems people been having lately with trannys, at least some I'm sure, I decided to not wait any longer and ordered some coolers and filter kit for my transmission. Currently I run 7 qts of Amsoil synchromesh (http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/manual/manual-synchromesh-transmission-fluid-5w-30/?code=MTFQT-EA) for about 4 years and 20k ml now. Heard different opinions on how much to overfill, some say at least a qt some say 8-9 qts. This has probably been beaten to deaf by now, but also some time has gone by, so hoping for some input from guys that use Fast coolers (http://www.genosgarage.com/product/fc-6-spd-dg/transmission-coolers) on one side and filter kit (http://www.quad4x4.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi) on the other, or just fast coolers on NV5600, but feel free to post results on NV4500 or anything you put coolers on. But my questions will be directed at NV5600. Questions are: How many extra qts of fluid do you run, What brand of oil, pros cons Do you have coolers or a filter or both, How often do you change your fluid, why, If you have a filter kit on one side which side do you think would be best for it. Meaning will it work on both sides or does oil fly one way better then the other, I've also heard guys running filter kit mounted on top of fast cooler not sure if there is much room that way. I have 5" exhaust, If there are other good ideas I'd like to hear them please. What I'm planning on doing is putting filter kit on the exhaust side and cooler on the driver side and thinking about running 8qts. People say that fill hole on NV5600 is too low so 1qt overfill is needed, I can see a way to have it overfilled by 1 qt with fast cooler and filter kit wold be fill it till oil comes out of fill hole, then put another qt in, but it still might not be as high because filter and cooler will have to be filed together with tranny. What do you guys think.

I also did what you said Mike, fill the fluid till it was flush with thermostat. But just in case if there is any air is in system it will always escape through that tiny hole. I've done it on other vehicles before with good luck, some thermostats come with a small check valve in them too.

I have drilled a very small hole (smallest drill bit I had) in the thermostat plate for air to escape without any issues.

I've used pipe dope from ace hardware, but it did say fuel compatible. I even use it on JIC fitting not to help seal but keeps threads from corroding.

My lines look pretty similar to yours

Cedar Rapids isn't a bad place to live, just not around down town area and few others, it's really good for business lots of stuff available around here if you like building stuff, like customers hose, lots of tractor places, cummins,cat, bunch of parts stores hwy truth town gets you places quick, not a bad place to raise a family in most of iowa, good schools and colleges. Not as much outdoor stuff like in Colorado though.

I'm in Cedar Rapids but soon moving to quad city's area. Yeah but I like the noise of cummis, and not so much of people yelling for no good reason, on radio or wherever. And they still playing same old **** day after day, and so much good music out there. I guess you got to pay the big boys club for them to put you on. Unfortunately the world we live in is not what it seems in many ways.

Wow that's a clean engine, if ti was me I wouldn't mess with it, like you said might have a problem later if you do. If you decide to change injectors then it might worth going through it all. If it runs good leave it alone, and check oil for fuel if looks good leave it alone. It's raining now but if I remember i'll look at mine and see if it's same way.

Might have to yank it out, never turn it on anyway, I like piece and quiet got enough noise at work and home.

Yes they cleared and so far didn't come back, I did changed my oil pressure sensor as it shears the 5volt power with map sensor, it was 15 bucks at cummins so i didn't want to chance it. I ended up starting a different topic for these codes. I'm hoping that's all it was. And not so sure if it wasn't my intermittent surging problem that would almost make since, at certain speed on a hwy i have a surge that kind of comes and goes, maybe pressure was just right to shorten out oil sensor and lose 5 volts to map sensor. I thought it was injectors changed them and seemed better but then came back, then I thought ac voltage from alternator rebuilt it and seemed good but still had a slight miss few times, and now I'm hoping I was losing 5 volts to map sensor and that was causing it, my next excuse will probably be a vp .

We got copper at3 on 3 of our work trucks the're holding up ok, but it's mostly town stop and go. Don't think we'll see more than 30k out of them. I also got a set of toyo at2 ride is good but not even 2 years old and seeing some dry rot, not sure if I'll get toyos again.

Go here http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/ and educate your self on vps, it will eliminate a lot of questions. Mos of us read bluechip's site.

Man that's scary we posted same thing at the same time.

I think sensor wont be completely in oil as it would be slinged all over the trans. Might have to have it lower for more accurate reading. Have you considered fass coolers that bolt up to pto, more room for extra oil, extra cooling and a hole for a sensor. I'm going to get one cooler and one filter for opposite side.

yes you're right about cross member, I spaced that one out. I guess what was mentioned before raise the engine up if you're going to attempt it. if I ever do it I might try the above, raise the engine. But if I have problems, I'm pretty good with a welder so I might cut it out and make brackets to bolt it back it. And it will defiantly be stronger then before. I always over do it.

I changed my front springs before and when i did i had my front end on the ground and lifted body up pretty high to get all of the tension out of the springs. pretty sure there was a lot of clearance between oil pan and axle. might help.

My guess is that something didn't lined up perfect and old seal didn't compensate, this guy explainsit best and he sells parts. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DvJhR48a-9R8&ved=0ahUKEwicjdj7zcbMAhWHKiYKHRv-C6AQtwIIUjAF&usg=AFQjCNE3yD8IRZ_zALBjwASkaAqzrrPkDw&sig2=Ict4RxoPxSniKOh6sQS3eQ

I used some ultra grey on one of my head studs that was trying to push oil out of it, that was 5 years ago, still good.

Checked for 5v at map got 4.99v local cummins had oil pressure switch on hand for $15 so I ended up changing it just in case, it looked old didn't want to have problems with it anytime soon. Got batteries hooked up, did apps reset, drove to part store and used their code reader. Said low voltage to map, got it erased along with water in fuel, so far it's good. We'll see what it does. I'm going to Canada fishing soon, be a 1300ml round trip, don't want to have issues. Be testing my luck soon, newer to me boat and a truck I drive every once in a while. Another thing is why does cables spark a little when hooking leads to batteries? Everything is off in the truck, what's getting feed with key off and all accessories off?

I can probably use a volt meter on map, I don't have fooler by it self, but I belive my qwadzila does all that. I'm the one who put fass 150 on, all I did is bypass factory fuel filter all together and took it off the mount and left that plug just dangling, but I did fill it with some dielectric grease so it doesn't corrode. I'm going to reset apps this morning and go down to local parts store to clear codes and see what happens next. Just wasn't sure what the heck is did by unplugging batteries, why all the sudden I got these codes. The one for water In fuel has came up before but not as a check engine light just on the panel, but never had boost error before, and I believe it's first time I seen check engine light on. Also I've read somewhere that a faulty oil sending unit can cause this.

I seem to like my quad after 5 years, like TFaoro mentioned lots of options if you like to play with things, some days I wished I had edge for simplicity and reliability. Quad doesn't have the best track record going in and out of business, and seems to be more prone to problems.

After I took my batteries out to charge them, the next day I put them back in and now I got codes 237 and 177. I'm going to unhook them over night again and try resetting the apps, I heard that that could be the cause. Any other ideas? All I did is took batteries out charged them over night and put them back in, and did apps reset. All connections are in good shape, and I don't even have the factory fuel filter anymore just the fass 150. I'm hoping it's not the ecm. Thanks for the help.

Got my batteries charged, put back in, reset the apps, and now got 2 codes P-0237 and p-0177 all wires look fine not sure what caused this unless batteries were low voltage before and now they're fully charged maybe ecm decided to throw 2 codes out of blue. 237 is water in fuel and I don't have that plugged in at all, the other one sounds like a map sensor not sure why that one came up.