SNKEBIT

After putting in the Fass 95 and my own 1/2" line kit with draw straw to the VP, I have a constant 16-18 psi at idle and 14-16 at wot. And that is going through the stock filter housing that I retapped for bigger ID fittings. No more banjo bolts.

ECM should be here today. I have always thought the ecm was on it's way out. But, really thought it was odd that my truck was starting and running without the WTS light coming on. Has to be ecm, the fuel pump is not coming on anymore either. Checked codes with a different scanner, P0230, fuel pump circuit out of range. Wth does that mean? No voltage on that circuit? - - - Updated - - - Well, put an ecm in out of a running 99 diesel and the WTS light maybe comes on for a second or two, maybe 1 out of 20 times of turning the key on. The ecm came out of a daily driver. Will do more testing tomorrow. no codes. :banghead:

I put a Fass 95 pump on and the grid heaters are not working either. Found a 40 amp blown fuse and replaced that. It was for fuel heater? Now, it will not start at all.

The only code is P0230 Lift pump

Have a link to those fittings?

What is this "vacuum pump seal" everyone speaks of?

I still get fuel pressure and it will start, just no WTS light at all anymore. ecm?

Sorry to hear about that Mike, but as the guys on the Viper forum say, "that'll buff right out"

Sorry, last post I got mixed up. Bushing was a different fix. lol Just fix old sender.Take a soldering iron and melt the edges of the hole for the swing arm just a little to fill in some of the hole. You can do both sides of the plastic piece. Then get a drill bit the same size as the swing arm and drill hole out the hole. Press arm back in and check to see if swing arm can move freely without side to side slop.I have fixed half-dozen or so this way.

Definately easier to lift box. Have done 3 box lifts this month. I WILL NOT lay under another truck again!As for the sender, most of the time the cheap plastic piece that the arm mounts to is worn out with slop and can't hold the arm straight any more so the contacts for the sender aren't touching all the time. I just make a cheap bushing and reinstall the arm and good to go. Works on all the Mopar tank senders.(Had to learn this because in the past, could only get the sender with the fuel pump module.):banghead:

Should just be the pump.....

What year ford front ends and exactly which ford diff? 3500 specific?

Do the brakes from the dodge fit on the ford hubs?

What does this kit consist of? Will the spindles and stuff fit off of an older truck?

Heater core..............:banghead:

Thanks Mike! Does the ECT fooler need to be used with the high idle switches too?Sorry for all the questions, just want to do this right the first time. lol:cool:

You have 3 resistors in your drawing....

Mike, in your drawing, the resistors go in this order?: 3/6 mode gets the 39k &56k resistors. mpg fooler gets the 3.3k resistor, correct?

Saw it. Two resistors on the 3/6 mode switch ran back on themselves. bad mike.

wtf??? Now I have to start all over.................................

Because, you ARE that good!!!!!!

Thanks Mike!!! Can't get any clearer than that. Is there a way to get the MPG fooler working in that scenario also?

Mike, Did you ever come up with a schematic drawn out? I think I found one on the CF, but it's a little vague and only shows one switch for all the functions.

That was a bit of a joke. I've had a 95 2500 v-10 since it had 5k miles on it. Well over 150k now and never had an issue except for the cold start pcm problem. She knows these trucks are made to last. The 95 is the best truck I've ever owned. Hoping this cummins is just as good! Besides, she's used to me buying stuff. Been upgrading the Viper for 8 years now. lol

That never works............. still get the:ahhh: lol