KATOOM

Because of insurance liabilities.....

By saying "rated" I was merely meaning the factory claimed weights and then the rated numbers in relation to that false figure they throw out there. Simply trying to point out that everything is a heck of a lot heavier than we generally think. Sorry for the confusion. Excessive life stresses and over working has seemingly inflicted some vertical comma induced posts.

Rural Idaho internet.....

OK then that kinda rules out everything you just said above..... So go back to when I said that the VP will start with no fuel pressure during cranking as long as the prime is retained. Where this is obviously not a prime problem is because you can shut down and immediately have the extended cranking per indicated in your videos. But in knowing this, if the prime is fine and the problem is not a result of the FASS pressure, as you say, then the engine shouldn't suffer from extended cranking but rather fire right up. Since its not, this brings me back to where I suggested getting in the PDC and confirming with that test light that the VP relay is actually getting power when you're trying to start it. Because it seems like its not, and maybe its delaying as well. And again, what can cause such odd anomalies is either failing components or bad connections or bad grounds.

So just I'm understanding your situation..... Your truck starts fine in the morning, or when the engine is cold and has been sitting. But when the engine is at operating temperatures and you attempt to re-start the engine after a fairly quick shutdown (like the gas station or store), it will hard start (extended cranking). This is probably more problematic when the ambient temperatures are hotter as well. Also.....this all started pretty much right after the FASS was installed. If all this is correct then it clearly sounds like the VP fuel solenoid and rotor timing ring are objecting to the increase in fuel pressure upon engine cranking when the engine is warm. Not uncommon as the tolerances change when the VP is hot and those solenoids require at least 9 volts to function properly. When combined with a higher pressure/volume fuel pump, these sensitive components freeze up until the overly high cranking pressure purges. Trouble is the only thing you can do to stop the pressure problem is install a delay relay which will cut the power to the fuel pump when the ignition is in the START position. Doing so will stop the fuel pump from pumping while cranking the engine, and as long as the prime is retained, the VP prefers this. You DONT want to turn down the FASS because then the overall fuel pressures will be lower as well. As for why you have a delay in fuel pump reaction, did the FASS come with a new wire loom and relay? Hopefully it did which will remove the added amperage strain from the aftermarket fuel pump.

Thats a great idea. I'm sure they'll probably offer you some kind of "extra" insurance for such problems too, but check to see what your insurance company will cover as well. You just dont want to be responsible for any unforeseen problems.

If the trailer is "rated" at 8500 lbs then the likelihood is thats a completely dry bare boned assessment by the trailer manufacture and its going to weigh more around 9000 lbs. Then another 1000-1500 lbs of food and clothes and camp stuff, depending on how comfortable the camper likes. Then another 500 - 700 or so lbs for water and propane. So that 8500 lb trailer rolls away at more like 10k -11k lbs..... Yes, I'd take that added 4k-5k of tire capacity and run with it in confidence. My triple axle 5th wheel came with six D's. Its manufacture rated at 12,500 but I know better as I've scaled it. The pin is around 3000 lb so there's technically 11k or so on the axles, depending on what I have loaded. Six of those D's hold 15k so they should be fine. But I chose E's and increased my tire capacity to about 17k.....around 14k on the axles. I run them at maximum pressure and I couldn't be happier. These tire are wearing like iron and they run cool on the highway. I just cant see why this is a problem.....

But just think about the new standard for "accountability". We could all do whatever we wanted and case law would prevail.

Well again.....I think this is a "to each is own" kinda topic. I'm not saying I'm right but I'm certainly not calling anyone foolish either for advising anything other than maximum air pressure in their ST tires, or running whatever air pressure they choose. Its their stuff and their money..... But that said, if running the maximum rated air pressure is truly over-inflated in an ST tire then someone better call Carlise because they're misinforming their customers. Same goes for multiple tire distributors selling ST tires who say the same thing. As for what any other tire manufacture "wants"..... As I mentioned, I tried to pin a couple of them down to what they deem necessary for their ST tires but you read what I got. Does that mean Carlise stands alone? I cant say..... Point being is we all have an opinion on this topic with seemingly no proof on either side but lots of experience shared doing it both ways. So we could battle back and forth and bore everyone which certainly isnt productive either. And Actually, all I care about is that no member has a any problems on the road and is safe. I think we can both agree on that.

Brings a whole new meaning to the old saying, "if you do that, it'll fall off".

I wonder what its like to sit a gaze upon Japanese porn in a gas mask.....

Whoa..... OK, with what you just said, is the extra cranking ONLY taking place when the engine is at operating temperature? Because pulling the FASS fuse will have zero affect when the engine is cold. Knowing this will certainly help pin point your problem.....

Open the hood and in the power distribution center, use the test light to confirm the function of the injection pump relay. You want to know if the injection pump relay is powering properly during engine cranking. Yes, the delayed power to the fuel pump is odd but knowing that the VP doesnt require fuel pressure in order to start the engine has me wondering why you have to crank for so long on a re-start situation.....even though the fuel pump is seemingly not pumping or is delayed. That said, how's the corrosion under your hood? You could have a bad ground. And wow.....your fuel pressure builds very slowly. Is that normal?

I guess a few of us will just have to agree to disagree..... Thats OK too as thats what makes the world go around. From all I've ever learned and understood and lived by, running ST tires at max sidewall pressure is NOT considered over-inflation. I've followed this practice for years and I've never experienced any odd or irregular tread wear patterns, and it didn't matter what tire trailer either. And in saying that, ST tires are made to "time out" before the tread wears out. 5 years and they're supposed to be replaced. How many people do you know who follow this rule? I personally know of none and have only read where one forum member does. As for tire companies "wanting" their ST tires run at varied pressures dependent on load..... I cant confirm or deny this. Yes, there are charts out there but show me where this actual "wanting" language is used by the tire manufacture. Thats not me stating anyone here is wrong but just wanting the proof behind the pudding. By the way, I emailed two tires companies about this air pressure question in ST tires not long ago too. Of those I got one totally vague response from one and no response from the other. Maybe they dont want the liability risk. And yes, trailers will most certainly lock up the tires more easily based on pressure and load.....but thats why brake controllers are adjustable too. As for class 8 tires, I've never understood the problem to be from sidewall belts. But rather I understood the problem is sidewall "zipper" failures from over fatigued belts. The reasons for this failure is predominantly caused by under inflation, running duals flat, and running over abrupt surfaces like curbs. They plys pull apart which causes bulges and air gaps. These damaged tires are supposed to fail retread inspections but often dont. Nonetheless, I adjust my vehicle tires per their load but again, ST tires are not designed to "flex". So to each is own.....

I think there's some incorrect advice about tires in this thread..... First off, just to point out in case some dont know, ST tires are not the same as LT tires. They're built completely different as they're designed to hold weight more laterally. Trailer tires dont like side loads placed on them and over flexing sidewalls only strains those load supporting areas. ST tires also have no weight capacity reserve built in their ratings because they're not engineered to hold passengers. And they're not designed to run at high speeds either. So that said, there is one thing that tears up tires and thats HEAT. Under inflated tires will run hot. Out of balance tires will run hot. Overloaded tires will run hot. Over-speeding tires will run hot. Damaged casings will run hot. Separated tread will run hot. Out of alignment running gear will cause tires to run hot. Steel rims will transmit more road heat into the tire than aluminum will causing them to run hotter. Worn axle bearings will cause a tire to run hot. So besides blatant defects within the tire, heat is always the main variable. Unlike some, I always run my ST tires at their maximum pressure capacity. Why.....? Because I dont want them to have ANY reason to run hotter than they could. If someone wants to run their RV trailer tires at some measured amount based on the weight their trailer is carrying then thats up to them. Its just not something I care to do since again, I want my tires running as cold as possible (relative speaking), and I'm not going to measure my trailers weight every time and adjust the tires air pressure accordingly. Heck, I hardly have time getting everything loaded in it before we leave. I'm so particular about my tires condition while towing that I use a TPMS just to keep an eye on them. Running them at a lower pressure just to trying and soften the ride in my trailer would only give me more reason for concern as I know they'd run hotter as the stiff load holding sidewall is being forced to move excessively. I think whats best to do is just get the right tire capacity for the gross weight of the trailer. If your trailer is an 8000 lb tandem axle TT with 225/75R15 ST tires then you could get C's but they'd be fully maxed out and wouldn't be smart as everyone always adds at least another 1000 lbs of extras. D's would be far better giving a couple thousand pounds for extra camp goodies, whereby E's would give you so much reserve that you'd never overload them. Well as long as the rims were rated for the added pressure. As for allowing the tires to flex..... This makes zero sense and goes against the principles that tires are not there to soak up more road bumps than the tires are designed to move. All tires will have some cushioning factor built in them but you aren't supposed to run tires at some lower pressure figure just to give your vehicle more "suspension". Doing so will not only cause the tires to run hotter but it will also potentially give reason for the tires to be damaged, wear terrible, and run hot. Yes, over inflation is also bad but maximum air pressure is not over inflated for an ST tire. And what I mean is you can damage a tire by allowing the sidewall to flex too much if the road bump or pot hole is too rough. So in reality tires that are run too low of air pressure are more likely to be damaged by road obstacles and sidewall flex whereas tires run at maximum air pressure are way less likely to be damaged and run at more optimal temperatures. Lastly, if a class 8 tire casing is damaged during its service then its deemed no good for recapping. And how a casing is damaged is by over flexing them, like running over curbs or hitting deep potholes. I guess this is all overboard too as the OP is merely renting and hopefully the RV rental company keeps their tires maintained.

Dont fix something thats not broke.....

Thats probably as true as it is funny.....

Quite a few years ago there was a lot of talk about how to create an ideal way to disable your own vehicle.....in a conspicuous manner. Meaning, its pointless if you have an obvious switch or you have to go through some procedure every time. Then a few people got ingenious and put together a proximity sensor system whereby you have a sensor device on your key ring and when you walk away the vehicle no longer runs. But all function regains as soon as you're within the allotted radius. No one would know no wiser, unless you let them. This was all taking place probably around 8 - 10 years ago too which was well before all the new vehicles started using key fobs with factory proximity alarm systems so I couldn't tell you how well it worked back then, but I do remember reading some positive reviews about how well it worked. Today the proximity systems are more than likely leaps and bounds better, and probably you could rig up something pretty functional.

The VP ties directly into the timing gears where loads of oil is moving about. In order to keep the oil from escaping the VP has an o-ring which seals the hole it fits in. If that o-ring is damaged then oil will obviously leak all over. Since this leak happened after that replacement, I'd say this could be the problem.

If anyone is interested, below is the spec sheet for the OEM 5600 fluid. And in regards to High Gear Transmissions stance on Mobil, I have to wonder if they'd say the same about Valvoline or Redline or any other brand if they just so happened to invite other oil brand besides an Exxon Mobile representative to determine the best oil for the NV5600. And why Mobil? Thats not to discredit their professional opinion either but just pointing out that their marketing statements leave room for questions. Tex_5600_fluid.pdf

Any "part time" 4wd truck I've had or been around, the front driveshaft would spin somewhat like in that video. Even an old NP205 which are completely gear driven transfer cases.

Freaking hilarious.

The internal drag inside the transfer case from fluid and bearings. I'm sure the drivers side axle is also helping it turn a small amount simply from the fluid viscosity as the spider gears move. And thanks for the video Cowboy. Thats awesome..... Gotta love GoPro's.

CAD stand for central axle disconnect and is the large vacuum operated collar found on the 2nd gen Dodge 4wd truck front axles, but were faded out in '02. Although because the assembly lines equipped what they had before re-tooling, there's plenty '02's with them. So you need to know what you have and its easy to recognize too as if you have the CAD truck then there would be a large collar looking thing on the passenger side axle tube of the front axle. If you dont then the axle tube will look normal. If you have the CAD then the 4wd system is part time which means the front driveshaft isnt turning at road speeds while you drive. So in order to shift into 4wd there's a syncro ring in the transfer case which speeds up the driveshaft when engaging 4wd. You're not supposed to engage at speeds over 10 mph but really its best to be barely rolling forward when shifting the TC. If the speeds are too fast then the syncro gear has to speed up a heavy shaft which wears it out. If you dont have the CAD and its grinding then thats not normal as the non-CAD trucks are full time 4wd systems and the front driveshaft is always spinning road speed and engaging 4wd is as quick as pulling the lever back to 4 hi. Of course you NEVER want to shift into 4 lo unless you're pretty much fully stopped.

I agree. No matter what fuel pump you get you cant possibly know what its doing without a gauge, and knowing whats its doing all the time is very important. But that said, if you choose not to get gauges then just understand that the OEM type fuel pumps are not capable of supplying enough fuel when running a timing/fueling box. The amount of power your engine makes will dictate the fuel pump size and volume but generally the everyday person with mild power is more than fine with a 95/100 gph pump. Larger fuel lines and free flow fuel fittings only make all that better.