mulcher812

This is the TC mod I was talking about. Before I go and hook this up is there anything I need to worry about breaking? Trans, torque converter, drive line? I think it will work the way the diagram is written for my truck, I may just go buy the switch and hook it up These engines were designed to run in higher rpm's "STOCK" but when we start modifing them and we increase the load range that's where we run into issues. Most of these engines run forever at 2600 rpms with there stock settings and load ranges.

Is the TC lock up controller worth the $350 or am I going to start tearing things up? I don't want to blow out my Trans or a drive line or even a differential. Has anyone tried one and how did they like it? Do you have any problems with it?

That sounds about right with the over drive off and speeds about 55-60 I'm pulling 2100+ rpm's also.

If the fluid is neon green then i would check the A/C system on the passenger side fender is the A/C filter the big black canister looking thing right in front of the PCM. I have seen them leak and cause a pin hole that you will only see when the system is pressurized ie when the engine is running and the ac is on blowing cold. The A/C system runs when the heater is on but not as much as when the cold is on.

I'm hoping I don't have to worry about blown head gaskets since I put in the ARP head studs.

Oh it holds when I decide to do that... except I'm concerned that when hauling a 14k load up Mt Hood at a 6% grade and its pulling around that 45-47mph it locks and unlocks then i accell a little and it does it again. If I kick the overdrive off there is 2 different feelings for 3rd gear. Un-locked and Locked. I know that the locked side my egt's fall off quick I went from 1200 to 800 in seconds when the lock engaged.

Didn't know that I run a Parker water separator after my Airdog so I removed my stock housing.

I have to agree 1/2" is a lot of movement in a carrier bearing

If your running the Airdog 165 you can eliminate the factory filter housing along with the lift pump and run your 1/2 line straight to the VP.

The lines are the last thing I do. I'm not saying that that's the correct way just the way I do them.

Has anyone run a Torque converter lockup controller like the BD TorqLoc or the done the torque converter lockup mod? If so how did you like it? when did it work best? The reason for asking is I have built my trans with a SunCoast stage 3 kit and when I'm driving around town or say under 50mph i leave the Overdrive off and everything feels good. But when I'm getting on the highway to go over 50 I turn the overdrive on and it feels like I will hit the overdrive gear at about 45 and my EGT's climb while the boost falls off. Im just trying to figure out if the torque converter I bought isn't doing what it should or if the trans is having an issue holding the gears or if maybe I need to the torque converter to lockup and hold the gears longer???

I like both of my tuners. I run a Smarty with an edge comp and it is the most complete power band for our trucks. The smarty does all the work on the bottom and the comp fills in on the top. Unfortunatlly I haven't found anyone who rents the edge comps yet but DAP will rent you a smarty so you can see how your truck will feel if you chose to buy one.

Are you running the HX35 or the HY35 the HX35 has a rubber hose going to the waist gate and the HY35 has a steel line. looking at your sig it should be the HX35 with the rubber hose something you can try without any tuners ie edge comp, smarty... plug off the waist gate port with an 1/8"npt plug. This will give you more boost and help lower EGT's assuming you don't have a boost leak and your waist gate isn't stuck open. Something you can check on the waist gate is the amount of pressure it takes to open the waist gate. I have check several with a presure regulator and a piece of hose if it is opening with less than 20psi its bad. If you add any kind of tuners then you will want to get a boost elbow and set it to open at 30-35psi max on the HX35. just my

I torque the injectors down to get them seated all the way then back the hold down bolts loose before I install the crossover tubes and torque them down then re-torque the hold down bolts.This allows the injector to move a little when the crossover tube is torqued down.

When I do injectors I seat the injectors then loosen the hold down bolts on the injector then install the crossover tubes and torque them to spec and re-torque the hold down bolts. I've had a few leak as well not for very long.

Well I think I'm going to put one in my truck regardless. I really want the exhaust break feature and the extra power that comes with the setup...

Yeah I think thats where I'm at Diesel4life. He really needs a full system cleaning and the dealer want's $2200 to do this type of cleaning for the truck. Now I know the Peterbuilt truck service shop that can do the DPF cleaning for $300-$400 under my account. I may try that first and go from there.

So I checked the shocks, upper and lower control arms, and front rotors and didn't fund much of anything that looks out of the norm. I did find a good set of machine matched rotors from Napa for $150 that I will be installing soon.

Below 35 and above 42 doesn't matter what toad conditions are mine is pretty much the same. Kedlin88 how is yours?

I don't think it was run hot the more I work on it the more I think that there was something wrong with the exhaust regen function on the truck.

Yeah I was all excited about using one of these in my 2nd gen with a fleece controller until now...

I did that and still have a vibration at about 40mph

Yes this is the stock HE351 variable vain turbo that came on the truck and the truck only has 67k on it. The truck is bone stock no mods or alterations. The owner is in his 60's and I'm trying to get him to spring for a programmer and do a DPF/EGR delete.

For our trucks they are inner and outer tie rods basically but there are 5 pieces to the puzzle. There is a Tie rod at the pitman arm, Left hand tie rod end, right hand tie rod end, Cross link tie rod and then the track bar. If your planning on replacing these parts definatly look into the 03 and newer upgrade parts. It will eliminate some of the really bad wear and tear these parts go through. I used the BD Track bar kit on mine. like this one http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/bd%20track%20bar%201032011.htm I have a very slight shimmy at about 40mhp also and none of these parts fixed it. But the front end is nice and tight again. The one thing I haven't done yet was pull the drive lines out and have them checked for balance or wear. This is the next thing I will try to see if it fixes my vibration or shimmy.

Nothing???