mulcher812

you too man enjoy the day.

AGP it does exactly what it says it does

Well yeah if it's easy to turn while in the air and hard to turn on the ground then it could be the steering box or the pump.

Jack the front end up off the ground and block it up start the truck and try to go lock to lock and see if it has any issues. Binding ball joint, tie rod end binding? Check the wheel bearings while you are there. If it's hard to turn lock to lock and you don't have anything binding it might be a bad gear box or pump.

I running a triple disk converter in my truck without a billet input shaft, but I'm on my second flywheel/flex plate. If I have to replace the flywheel/flex plate again it will be a billet unit. The extra $225 will be worth it.

I helped a buddie do the delete on his 08 6.7. We used the Raceme tuner. He is getting a hand calculated 22.4 mpgs empty and loves it. He just bought a 2nd-generation exhaust manifold and an s463.3 turbo and we will be installing it in the next couple weeks. I have driven it and wow. It feels like it can go down the road effortlessly.

Here is the info on 2nd gear lock-up. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-performance-parts-discussion/573451-2nd-gear-lockup-would-nice-can-done.html It's a good mod if you want to do TC lock.

Try jumping across the starter and see if it engages. If not I would start with the contacts in the starter could be bad. It could also be the clutch switch in the cab.

didn't even read your sig sorry, but I would still want to see the temp for general info purposes.

The vital things I like to see are boost, EGT's, and trans temp. If you plan on towing I would recommend seeing your trans temp. If you have a well built trans or just a mildly modified trans the temp tells you if there could be a problem. As for hooking it up try this http://m.dieselbombers.com/showthread.php?t=97528#PhotoSwipe1401811803620 I used the far left side test port.

I've always been partial to the BFG A/T's they have always been a great all year round tire for me. They run me $675-$750 for a set of 4 out here and they are a snow rated tire.

Perry did you get any info with the truck? Do you know the previous owner or did it come off a lot? The reason for asking is that there may be other mods in the truck also... injectors, turbo, trans these things that the quad would work with. I'm not a person to say anything about the quad products but from experience of doing upgrades injectors and a tuner are usually at the top of everyone's list.

I would definitely suggest looking into a used HX turbo with the HY, rv275's and an Edge Comp your going to see your EGT's go up.

If the pearl has a stock 9cm housing a 14cm housing would be a 10cm housing increase overall and drop your EGT's a lot. With stock injectors it may be lagging as a DD though.

I did my head studs one at a time. Like MnTom said start in the center and work your way out in a clockwise rotation. Cylinders 5 &6 are the hardest being under the cowl. Head studs are only needed if you plan on pushing more than 30-35 psi. A super B or Phatshaft will be gated for 40psi. If you plan on pushing that kind of air then you would want to do the studs in order to keep the head seated.

OK are you talking about the turbo flange bolts or the manifold flange bolts? Turbo flange bolts are studs and the manifold to head are M10x1.5 hex bolts.

I know the aircraft fuel helps the engine run a lot cooler. I have a 14' sand rail that as a 98 SOHC subaru engine in it and all i run in it is aircraft fuel to help keep the heat down. It feels like its running on some really good race fuel though. I can pull a wheelie the distance of a football field.

Well since this has come up I have started looking into it and found out that the propane it's a kit that can be done rather cheap and easy. Apparently there is a gentleman in Vancouver, WA. that sells all the required parts and pieces. I'll do some more checking and if its a viable source. If so I'll post his info here.

I would suggest checking your turbo if its the HY then that is your problem. The HY only has a 9cm exhaust housing as to where the HX has a 12cm housing. huge difference in the amount of exhaust output of the truck. The Phatshaft 62/12 is a real good turbo but you may want to check into the 62/80/14 then when you want to do the 100-150 hp sticks you will have the flow for that too. Have you done head studs yet? If not I wouldn't push the boost past 40psi.

Yeah figure about 700-900lb on the front end with all the 4x4 stuff. I know the front axle out of my 99 weight was 534lb. with out the brakes and hubs.

If your just looking to get more out of the "Pearl" I think I would look into a smarty or an edge comp. The Smarty is great for the bottom end grunt power and the Edge Comp is great for the top end. As for the sticks I've gone as large as 75hp on an HX35w turbo. I wouldn't do more than the RV275's on the HY35 turbo because of the exhaust housing discharge is only a 9cm. Do you know what turbo you have in it now? HX or HY?

Well I have to correct myself they are M10x1.5. Is there anything wrong with the stock ones?

There is a guy out here that I've seen running around with a 20 lb propane bottle in the back of his truck. I finally stopped him and asked what or how his setup worked and it was a simple regulator out of a forklift that he had rigged up to a solenoid on a toggle switch I the cab. His system injected pre turbo also.

T try McMaster-Carr Or Grainger I think the bolt are M12 x 1.5... I think...

Did u use the same brand of antifreeze the last time as this time? I have seen some really weird iron oxide come from green and pink antifreeze. But if you pulled green out and put green back in I'm stumped. Maybe send it in and get it tested and see if it's something in the antifreeze?