mulcher812

There are 2 plates on the pumpkin cover right where the axels come out that have the identification on them. As wild and free said it should be a Dana 60 though

Yeah if your u-joints have zerks they have already been replaced the factory u-joints are non serviceable.

My auto and cruise control do not agree on how things are or should work ever... surging from 0-12 psi of boost sucks. But for odd things happening the other day I was under the hood of my truck aand my turbo looked like it had been pooped on. After a little searching I found 8 of the exhaust manifold bolts loose. I know I did the new 3 piece manifold about 4 months ago and torqued the new stainless manifold bolts to 35 ftlb. Just kind of strange.

Does yours have the little plastic bushing? I know i have seen some that had it and some that didn't. If it wasn't designed to have a bushing you can pull the pedal and install a bushing.

The guys at my tranny shop call the 68rfe an over sized Caravan trans.

It's interesting how many fuel issues these injectors are susceptible to. The 68rfe trans is what we are seeing as issues in the north west.

There is a rollover device under the center seat that will lock the seat belts but I'm not sure that it will cause a no start.

OK so a little more info - the rolling chassis (engine, trans, diff, front and rear axels) of the truck is out of a 2009 that was a rollover with 67.000 miles on it. Cab is from a - 2008 that was rear ended with 42,000 miles. Front end (hood, fenders, grill) is a mix match of trucks and god only knows where the bed came from... So after getting a little more info on it I think I'm going to keep my truck.

If they are all K- type thermo couples you can use 1 for all three instead of drilling 3 holes in your manifold, unless you want to have each one try and read there own probes. This could purpose a problem if they are reading differently.

here try this I have used several of these kits and never had an issue. They are genuine Holset rebuild kits. http://baeturbosystems.com/turboservicekitformitsubishitd04td04l49177-80410oereplacement-2-1-1-1-1-1-2-1-2-1-1-2.aspx

Well I need some more info on it the truck. Once I get that I'll check back in and let you guys know what I have found.

Yeah not sure if it was a roll over project or a flood or what? If it was damaged he did a pretty good job putting it back together for sure. The odometer only reads 41xxx so I'm not real sure that's correct. If I was to do the trade the I think the first thing to deal with would be the lift pump and some way to filter the water out of it.

So I was approached yesterday with a strange offer. A gentleman near my buddy's shop offered to trade me an 08 6.7 Mega cab for my truck. Straight up title for title. I thought he was full of it but today he did it again. So here I am asking myself really?? Are our trucks becoming that sought after? Talking to my buddy he says the guy is a builder, ie builds lots of cars from insurance yards to Craigslist.The truck has an H&S EGR delete and 4" exhaust with no cat. What do you think? I love my truck and all but

Yeah you shouldn't be getting and axel movement forward or reverse. Traction bars are designed to stop axel wrap like wild and free said your pinion will move with spring torsion.

I'm on my 3rd VP in 200k miles and yeah mine acts the same as yours does in the videos.

So I'm running 100hp injectors now. This issue started with my RV275 injectors changed them out to 75hp still an issue then went to DAP 100hp sticks with no change. The one unique thing I have noticed is that if I let the truck run for a few seconds then put it into gear everything is fine. If I jump in fire it up and throw it into reverse real quick it will lurch or lope. Fuel pressure always monitored from mechanical gauge readings haven't changed much from 17 psi at idle to 15.5 wot. So this doesn't matter of the engine temp or runtime, hot or cold outside. I can make this happen on command anytime I start my truck.

OK so I have the same issue but it only happens to my truck when I jump in it start it and put it into gear right after starting it. If I let it run for a second or two then put it in gear nothing happens. Mine has been doing this for almost 8 months. I've tried new apps, trans valve body, and 3 sets of injectors. I figured it was in the VP and when it died I would deal with it then.

It looks like the meter is on 10A. Turn it to DCV 20 and try again.

Right on that really looks like fun. One of these days I'll try it

Bob at BAE would have them too.

Matt I'm not too sure on that. AH says not to push it past 35psi but over on the CF forum they are running there's at 40-45psi using 75-125hp sticks.

All I can say is ouch...

The only way to test it is to hook it up and turn it on. The reason they put out AC noise is because the brushes are or part of the armature are contacting the case. Hence the reason you have to hook it up and turn it on. Sorry Joe.

Well everyone has already mentioned everything to look at. On your fuel system the bypass valve is stuck open and your alternator may be the cause of the Trans issues. Check the alternator for AC noise to see if the field has failed.

There are 3 freeze plugs on the passenger side of the truck and like Tom stated do the thermostat and flush the radiator out and check for oil build up in the radiator as well.