mulcher812

So while out running some errands today all of a sudden my truck started acting like it had a miss. I limped it home and pulled the codes to find a P0602 - ECM fueling calibration error. I cleared the code reset the ecm to stock settings and started the truck up and it's still there. I reprogrammed the truck to lvl 6 started it back up and still no change. Is there a way to check if its VP or the ECM? Thanks in advance to the help everyone.

I know the Chrysler ATF is a proprietary mix but what the difference is I have no idea. I always use the cheap house brand that's why I'm running the DEX VI now it was the cheapest.

Have you ha a chance to pull the pistons and look at them? I've seen a couple of cracked pistons that looked normal in the hole but then when pulled they showed there damage. the oil on the valves looks like the valve guides and seals are leaking pretty good.

Like Me78569 says unless you want to go to Chrysler and get there version of ATF+4 then any brand of ATF+4 will work just as good as the next. I have been using the new DEXVI (Synthetic) for the last 60k and I don't see any difference in it. Trans temps are the same no slipping or anything weird when towing.

That's probably what the guy driving was looking at while in reverse...

Well Joe that is your trans cooler. If its damaged I may know someone that may have a used one that he would be willing to sell he may even have therest of the parts you need.

I've found the easiest way to deal with the sending units is to pull the bed but not everyone can do that. If you want to try it there are 6- 15mm bolts that hold the bed down and 1- 3/8 bolt with a ground strap. This makes getting the giant nut a lot easier to get off.

If the little more is all your after then the smarty will be the best upgrade. I ran a smarty alone on my truck for 2 yrs before i went off the deep end .

Ok someone correct me if im wrong but I think the 01's had 2 engine temp sensors 1 for the gauge near the thermostat housing and the other was tucked under on the very back of the head near the fuel return tee.I would check them and see if you have a connection problem.

This is something I found that you might want to look at http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/c-2321-94-02-59l-24v-recipes-for-horsepower.aspx

Nice run TFaoro. Did you double your timing with the Smarty and tst?

This is the cheapest way to make it adjustable http://www.vulcanperformance.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=ABE

Like Mike stated if it's an HY35 set it to 30 psi if it's an HX35 set it to 33psi and your good.

This Dyno was loaded and they did set the off set. I did do 2 other pulls with just the comp and the best group was what I posted with the smarty and comp My comp isn't the hot unlocked version. The tech told me I probably wouldn't get much more HP out of the HE351 and 100hp sticks. He was saying that I was basically out of air flow. I talked to Alex at Industrial Injection and I think I'm going to get a Phatshaft 62/80 for now then add an S480 to it later.

Well here is what I put down last weekend. This was with the Smarty on 6 and the edge comp on 5x5. I basically make out the turbo and I'm now in the market for a replacement turbo... looking to hit somewhere between 550-600hp and about 1200ftlb of torque.

Remember RV trailers aren't meant to be lived in for long periods. I assume you will have power water and sewer... like Russ stated the roof and the underbelly are the keys to keeping them for a long time. We bought our 2nd trailer in 2012 and it has more wham whams and zoom zooms than we really need but the trailer was cheap. Here is what we bought http://www.rvguide.com/specs/dutchmen/travel-trailer/2011/dutchmen-lite/286bhgs.html We only paid $16K for ours its a lot of trailer but we have 2 kids and their friends usually with us.

Kerley what year is your truck? Usually the rule of thumb is that the manual trucks had the HX35 turbo and those turbos are pretty bullet proof

I have one and it works. Most of the info is metric. I think me74??? Is working on or playing with one to get more info out of it.

It's always been my understanding that the 48re was put into trucks from 2003 - 2007. I know in 2008 they went to the 68rfe.

With the grease the fragments fall straight down and stick to the inside. So just stick a small magnet in the hole and retrieve the rest.

Like TFAORO said it's very easy to drill and tap. Just remember it's a pipe tap not a standard thread style. So when using the tap only go about 1/3 of the way down the tap. This is because the threads are tapered. Then just use a magnet to clean any excess out.

I know the last extra set of injectors I turned into usable ones cost me more than if I would have sent them in as cores and just bought a set of already setup injectors. Good tips $200 and then having them set at 310 bar was $56 each so total cost was $560. Good set of 100hp injectors $400. If you want to sell them let me know.

Pac brake makes one that goes where your power elbow is now (right off the back of the turbo) assuming you have a stock HX or HY turbo then it would work for you. If you have an upgraded turbo that uses an HX40 down pipe you can get it as an in line unit and it will install just below the turbo.

I'm kind of starting to wonder about maybe a weak spring? Or like MNTom said a flat spot in the cam.

Well Skelly I have to say they are pushing the oil viscocity lower for the diesel world. I have seen oils down to 5-30 for diesels. the unique part is there are people using it... I myself have switched to the 5-40 and still feel that the base 40w oil is needed for our older trucks.