mulcher812

The scan gauge is seeing everything that the ecm is seeing. I think the crank sensor goes straight to the vp. So try wiggling the wires when its running and see if it stops.

Yes if your leaking power steering fluid from the hydra boost you will need to replace it. The lines going to it from the power steering pump are flared fittings with no O-rings. Your vacuum issue is a separate problem. If you replaced the power steering pump and your truck is having a vacuum problem the vacuum pump is located in front of the power steering pump. So you may want to check the vacuum line coming off of it.

Ok so how about cam or crank sensor? They may not be faulty all the time but random faults from engine vibration could cause the same kind of issue.

If it's showing that the TCC is off then you could have a short in the wire causing it to be grounded out. Did you look for any toggle switches? The previous owner could have installed a torque converter lock up switch. I have a lock up switch on mine.

Yes both sides can be machined to your needs. Bob at BAE was telling me that I should just machine my exhaust housing on my he351 and I would have a better performing turbo than a Super B. Not sure if I want to take that on yet. It was a real PITA the last time I took this turbo apart.

CT I've kind of been studying up on turbos and I think your issue is going to be the size of the exhaust turbine. Most of the big name turbo manufactures have a much larger exhaust side. This is what I think is also causing your surging problem. Example I'm looking a buying a super B special and it is a 64/72/14. I think if you want to do that you would need this to keep it from surging. http://baeturbosystems.com/compressorwheelformitsubishitd04hl4350mminducer-5600mmexducer-1-1-3-1-2-4-1-5.aspx

Sounds like your torque converter isn't unlocking like it should. Mine would do that same thing if I left the torque converter lock up switch on. Has it always done this since you owned it?

Well I've done 6 sets of studds including mine. Trucks ranged from 175k - 225k and none have had any issues as of yet. Mine was at 186k and I'm at 211k now. Still no issues on mine. How many mile are on your truck?

The 47re is the same for both gas and diesel valve body included. The torque converters are different salls. Your 24 valve should have a factory 2000 rpm stall converter in it. You can upgrade the converter to a billet style UT don't change the stall rating. It becomes kind of a pain I didn't know when I did mine and I don't like it with the 1600 rpm stall now. But everything else is the same on the swap.

I'm in the same boat as AH64ID called ARP and they said just to torque them once and they were good to go. I talked to turbolvr on the CF forum and he recommended the 3 torque process. 1st torque during install then 2nd loosen and retorque and 3rd at 1000 miles.

I did mine 1 at a time without removing the head or replacing the gasket. I followed the sequence that they give you. You don't need the thread locker. For the studs I tightened those hand tight with an Allen wrench. Make sure you use the assembly lube they give you on the threads where the nut is going to be. Since I didn't remove my head I torqued each one to 125 ftlb. Once all of them were in I went back over them and rechecked. Then I went through and started all over again and using the sequence they give I loosened 1 at a time and re-torqued them to 125. After 1000 miles I loosened one at a time and re-torqued them all to 125 once again. It felt like it took for ever but very well worth it. As for doing any milling that is for the common rail engines not ours. None of the bolts go into water jackets. I do believe there are some that go into the oil jacket like CT mentioned UT they are not under any kind of pressure so you don't have to suck the oil out it will push back into the galley where it came from. Mine works well I've seen 50 lb of boost and no issues with leaks.

KYcummins I have a factory sport and I think one of the headlights come on with the fogs.

No not with Source. Bill is a good guy over there but I can beat all of his prices for anything you need. PM me for details and price info.

Where in Oregon are you? I can probably get you hooked up with everything you would need to get your truck up and over any of the hills around here. I climb hood 6% grade at 65 with my setup and only see 1100* with the overdrive off Smarty on setting 6 and edge comp on 5x1.

Yeah my neighbor came over and knocked on the door to tell me there was something wrong with my truck. He was afraid it was going to throw a rod or blow up...

Like everyone has said park it before your looking at a $1000 VP replacement. I have a mechanical gauge inside my truck that I ran from the top of the filter housing. Just a cheap ashcroft 0-30 psi gauge with a 1/4 quick connect fitting on it. Some of the trucks have a Schrader valve right on the side of the VP and Napa has a test hose you can get for them. Not sure on the cost of the hose.

My 99 wasn't the same color wires but the connector was a light blue in color and about 2" long with 4 wires in it.

that compression tester is great for determining if you have a cracked piston or valve. Like i said for $30 it will at least work for your truck. I have had pretty good luck with mine and it seems to be accurate enough to tell you if you have a bottom end problem.

you might try this?? http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-diesel-engine-compression-tester-93644.html I know it will at least work for a little while or mine has worked through 4 engines for me.

Welcome to the family Deej always nice to have new members. As for your trans issue try cleaning the terminals on the batteries and ground terminals on the block.

Nice paint job. It looks like glass.

Could be a bad spring in an injector.

You might want to check the big plug just to left of the clutch pedal. There is a 10mm bolt in the center of it but I have seen them loose and have issues

I have not been able to figure out what is causing the issue yet.

I would wonder if the 4.0 would be able to get the HY to even build 8 psi of boost you may need an even smaller turbo that would spool a little quicker.