mulcher812

Cool

I think I would do an apps reset and see if that fixes your problem. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/258-how-to-reset-calibrate-apps-sensor

That's the same with the Edge Comp. Running on 5x5 is better MPG'S than 3x5

Give it a little more skinny pedal???

So I may not need that brick on the floor board :thumbsup:

Any update blue?

Also check the CANBUS plug and see if the pump is tap with a red wire going to it. If so then lIke Mike said turn all the sub settings up to level 5 and set the comp on 5 and she should give you something.

Yeah totally forgot about the CANBUS

Make sure you unplug the pump tap wire just in case the comp is doing something weird internally.

Tom if the cushion and cover are still in good shape the cross bands are easy to replace and put your seat back to new.

I know it might sound like a lot but you may want to pull them and have them pop tested. I've heard them rattle and ping but they were worn out when they did it. And I mean worn out.

Well welcome the family Konnor it looks like you saved the best for last. As for your new truck she looks sweet. Hopefully there is a little more turbo behind those 150 sticks . Either way nice truck.

Ct how many miles do u have on those injectors? I have seen some with worn out injectors that will rattle.

So is it the bottom seat or the back? I may have one. If it's the bottom of the seat they breakdown by pulling the 4 -10mm bolts off the bottom. Is it a heated/power seat or manual seat?

The shop that I deal with for the big Semi trucks is just a little shop and he has a special laptop that I use and help him out with but it was a $5k adventure for the laptop and then cost him another $1000 a year just to keep it up to date.

usually they don't do any howling after shutting down the engine unless something is wrong...

Take the tube off of the front of the turbo and reach inside the front of the turbo and see if you can wiggle the turbo veins. If they move more that about 1/32nd of an inch It may be time for a new turbo...

Really??? My engine was designed at a time when the oils form the American Petroleum Institute were rated as a CH-3 now current oils are a rating of CI-4 and CJ-4 that were designed to be used in 2002 and newer engines using EGR systems. These newer oils are designed to be better and more robust in the newer and much tighter tolerance engines. Under these new designs they are still wanting diesel engines to run a formulated 15w-40 oil. Not a 5w-30 oil. As for me the "Factory Recommended" oil to be used in my truck was a CJ-3 not this new CJ & CI - 4 oil on the market. I don't have an EGR system nor do i like the CJ-4 and CI-4 specs for ultra low sulfur diesel engines. As for me my worries I'll stick to the 15w-40 for know.

I don't even think the EGT's will change with the RV275's and HX35 with out some kind of tuner. It just doesn't get that hot till you put 100-150hp sticks in it. And Joe your very welcome if you need anything you have my # and just give me a call.

I think I need to find me one of those rocks with a power outlet in it.. :think:

So did you change the PCM on the passenger side firewall? I think they are different...

Well I'm not sure I would want to go to a lighter weight oil with the mods I have. I haven't had the chance to get on the dyno in over a year but i would say that I'm somewhere around 450hp at the wheels... I'm just not sure that lowering the viscosity will help that much in my case but in your case with everything being bone stock 2wd and an auto it may very well work great.

I know the college student adventure... I was there once myself. the silicone tube makes for installing the 351cw really nice. I've a couple installs with them and a couple with out and the one's with them were a lot less work. I think the install times were like 4-6hrs the ones with out were like a full 2 day project.

What Mike says makes sense. My 100hp sticks are stock 235 bodies that have been extrude honed and the Bar set to 330-345 set by the spring pressure. My understanding is that the orifices are 5x.013. The Bosch RV275's bar is 300-315 and can be adjusted to be a little more or less than factory spec.

DAP sells a nice hot air charge pipe for the HE351cw. http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/he351%20silicone%20boot.htm then its a little more painless...