mulcher812

ok so i found that the stater on my alternator was fried. so we will see if this takes care of the issue...

I tried starting it in neutral and still nothing, I'll try tilting the steering wheel and see if that changes anything. If the starter was bad I didn't think I could jump the battery cable to the starter solenoid and get it to start??? to me it seams like I'm loosing the 12+ to the starter from the key?? I tried replacing the starter relay in the PDC on the fender well and that didn't change anything.

sounds like TC or a plugged trans filter. when was the last time the trans fluid was changed or filter changed?

So over the past few days i have been dealing with an issue with my truck. Sometimes it starts when i put the key in and turn it sometimes it doesn't... this morning fine, this afternoon fine tonight at the fuel station nothing. the only why to get it to start is jumper across the terminal at the starter with the key on.... any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

If there is a special pic that would help let me know I have the turbo torn down on my work bench...

and more of the dis assembly. If you look at pic#530 you can see how the VGT will only go so far back into the exhaust housing and not sit flat. I have been working on the flights to try and straighten them to see if i can get it to work but i have not been able to get it back together yet.

Ok gang here are some pic's of this unit as I was taking it apart...

It's pretty amazing what they can do with brush-less motors and Li-on batteries now. My kid races RC cars and all he wants to run are the biggest and baddest brush-less motors. I have to say it can get some where around 80-100mph going down our street...

ok ok I'll do my best to get some pic's up tomorrow...

if you have a volt meter you can check each wire to ground using the ohm setting and it will tell you if you have a ground problem. The other thing to check is voltage to the sender and from the sender to the gauge. If you put 12 volts in you should be getting something less than 12 volts back to the gauge. So after do a little research if its a 15psi gauge and it has been over pressurized it will may also cause it to fail.

I think I may need one of those switches...

I ran on my RV275's with a boost elbow and set the boost to somewhere around 30lb. I did notice a big difference when pulling my 28.5ft trailer. I also noticed better acceleration for passing nothing really on the mpg's really. You must have the HX turbo don't push it past 35lb cause then your pumping hot air and your outside the map of the turbo and can case some real damage.

I originally thought the same thing but when it took 2 pry bars to get the cartridge out of the exhaust housing I knew something was wrong. I picked up the turbo today and I'll get some pics of it as i tear it down and show how it will not go back together.

Welcome crooked pull up a chair and stay a while

here is an image from Holset's website that shows what part was damaged. it is the ring on the left of the image.

I have all the pieces and when i go back out to the shop I'll get them and take pics of all the parts and post them for everyone. It doesn't look like anything besides normal exhaust went through it. the truck is all factory no chips or tuners in it. Just the VGT veins were lodged in the exhaust housing. I'll probably be at the shop on Wednesday and I'll get the old parts and to get some good pics of the pieces.

Are you running a mechanical fuel pressure gauge? If so do you have a snubber inline with it? if your running a snubber try opening the snubber or closing it about a half turn. I was having the same issue with my ashcroft mechanical gauge and found that the fuel pressure going through the snubber was creating a buzzing of harmonics in the line and inside my truck.

My gauges in the pic above are glow shift and they have been in for 2yrs now and no problems. I will say that if they fail I will be switching over to Isspro EV or EV2 I use a mechanical Ashcroft 0-30 fuel pressure gauge with a snubber in line they work well and only $25 at Napa.

So there was a truck in the shop this weekend and came in with a check engine light on with a P2262 code. Dodge dealer told the owner it was going to cost $2800 to fix due to he needed a new turbo. During inspection of the turbo and its functions( after draining the coolant) and removing the actuator from the side of the turbo we noticed that the lever actuator would only move about half way between open and closed. I removed the turbo and dissembled it into the 3 main pieces exhaust housing - cartridge - boost housing. When separating the cartridge from the exhaust housing I had to use 2 pry bars to separate the 2 pieces after looking at the VGT slide part I realized that the reason it was not functioning was due to the fins being bent in. So 2 questions- 1) has any one else had this type of problem? 2) If so did you have to order a whole new turbo or were you able to order parts for the turbo to have it repaired? Oh and the truck only had 67000 miles on it.

Welcome to the forum and nice truck : thumbsup:

glad to help out so how much was the part that you bought?

Happy B-Day Dripley.

If your getting pressure into the tank from an injector you should probably pull the valve cover and check all 12 bolts on the injectors for being tight. If one has come loose this could cause an injector to lift and let compression gasses into the tank from the return line. Even with the crossover tube in it can still lift slightly.

I've never herd of a hum but if i remember correctly the first Gens had a voltage regulator for the alternator and when they start to go bad they hum its a thin silver box with a triangle connector and 2 wires one green and one blue. I would check that and see if it is loose the body of ii is the ground and sometimes when they come loose they don't get a good ground and can cause charging issues and some weird voltage issues. If you have a volt meter check the batteries and see if you have 13-14 volts at the battery with it running.

I bleed mine using an empty bottle and bumped the key once the fuel started coming out i pinched the plastic tubing and plugged it into the gauge. Here is a pic of my gauges Top - trans Temp Middle - EGT bottom - Boost bottom corner - Fuel pressure On the Middle gauge I have a little red light that is hooked to a pressure sensor in case the mechanical gauge was to fail.