cajflynn

No kidding. I am going to look into that. Thanks for the tip.

If a stock one is available locally I have to go with that but if not I will order the suncoast one. I am hauling a wide load across the country this week. I won't be allowed to drive it on the weekend so I can't wait too long for parts. Thanks again for all of your help.

Thank you for your reply. I think it is the solenoid too..

My truck will only go in limp mode. Third gear only unless I manually shift 1-2-3. No overdrive. I get two codes - 1693 and 0743. The first time it went out I took the relay out and put it back in and it worked for 15 minutes. After trying this a few times it now has a code all of time and clearing the code does nothing once the car is truned back on. I checked the wires going into the transmission and the wires on the pcm. I also checked my lock up controller and I don't see any obvious wiring problems. I put a continuity tester on every connection on my lock up controller and there was not any continuity between the wires. I am now at a loss for how to diagnose this.

Those injectors had 4 or 5 hundred thousand miles on them when I took them out. I never did anything to them. I ran cetane through them once in awhile. Other than that I ran them as hard as I could most of the time. I am a firm believer that only buying Flying J diesel has made a difference in my trucks life. I don't add two stroke oil or anything like that. My current IP has well over 200k miles on it.

Mine did the same thing until I installed a lockup controller. I think the problem is low voltage from the alternator.

Have you checked the basket in the tank?

I ran the first 500k on my tuck with 20k miles changes. I only went to 10k intervals recently. I just took the heads off my truck and everything looks great. I don't think I made your point though. I never tried to run my oil for 40k so there is no comparison. I think my 750k miles proves longevity from normal oil. As your 633 may prove longevity also. I pay about 10 a gallon for oil and 12 per filter. Amsoil is about 30 a gallon and 25 a filter. So in that scenario I am at 42 a change and amsoil is 140. If you are to look on the amsoil sight they reccomend changing the oil at the longest of the factory intervals which is 15k miles. I believe that if synthetic oil was better the big rig guys would use it. Their trucks go 2 million miles. They use regular oil.

I have a few miles on my truck and I haul heavy things every day. My thoughts on this subject are going to be a little different than others I see. 1. Your transmission is your weakest link. You will spend more money here than anywhere else over the long run. Take the time to build this right. If you add an edge comp you will be taxing your at past its limit in a hurry. I have had 4 or 5 transmissions in my truck. 2. Look at your transmission cooler lines. They can rub together and get holes in them. That cost me a trans or two. 3. Fleetguard filters, fuel and oil. I buy dello or rotella whichever is cheaper. 4. A fuel pressure guage is great to have. I got mine at Geno's. It was inexpensive and easy to install. 5. Vulcan big line and relocation kit for the lift pump. 6. BHAF. Cheap and good. 7. If you are towing a lot get a slightly bigger injector. Stage 1 will give you the best mileage and little or no smoke. 8. You can buy a programmer that only advances the timing (power puck, edge ez, ts mvp, quad xzt) or one that does timing and fuel (edge comp, quad adrenaline, etc...). I think for towing and longevity timing is all you need. You will only get 40 to 60 more hp but your parts will last longer and you will get good mileage with low egt's. Longevity is a product of constant maintenance. Fix everything as soon as you can and try to do it all yourself. I call Mike for help all of the time!

I do not have a bypass filter. I use dello or rotella, whichever is cheaper. I use fleetguard filters exclusively.

I have 756k on my 2001. I used to change my oil every 20k miles. I change the oil about every 10 now.

How old is your fuel filter?

They are RV 275's. I hope you enjoy them. I got my orings and shims from a local Cummins.

Is it possible that a bad battery would cause this? The truck cranks at half the speed of the one in the video.

With the miltimeter attached to the lift pump and the relay removed it goes from 1.3 volts to 3.3 volts.

It is all stock. This kind of acts like a bad battery doesn't it? I will try testing the power output.

I took the relay out and turned the key. The pressure went to 0 and it still didn't turn with much strength. When I let the key go the pressure went to 14.

My truck is having a hard time starting. When idling the pump pressure 14. When going 70 it is 11. When trying to start it is 0. I now get the p0216 code and 1693 companion code. It is possible low pressure set off the codes so let's hope that is the case. The codes came a few days after the hard starting started. I have a new oem lift pump. 730k miles.