cajflynn

I just passed 900k.

I got Monroes from Napa. They offered lifetime replacement. I am on my third set so far. When the shocks start to go bad my tires start to cup.

Something is wrong with your ac compressor clutch.

What does your rotor look like? If the rotor is bad you should think about upgrading to third gen brakes, it may also explain why one pas is wearing faster than the other. I bought two calipers from a 2005 at a junk yard for $70 (for both) and then put 3rd gen rotors and pads on. It makes for a lot more braking power.

Downhill to the lake and uphill back home. I would have to be driving pretty slow with a boat to be at 700. 900 is pretty normal for me when towing at highway speeds. ---------- Post added at 05:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:36 AM ---------- The trailer brakes could have locked up or you could have some bad bearings on the trailer. Did you check to see if the hubs were hot?

My setup is similar to yours. I have 90hp injectors and I have been thinking of getting 50's and a new turbo. My tcc is set at 1600 so my biggest fear is getting a slow spooling turbo. I tow heavy most of the time so I am interested in how your 12cm 35/40 works out. I think that might be the best turbo for me too.

I keep my boost level constant with my foot. After a while it gets pretty easy. The transgo is not too hard to install. A DTT might be a better kit and definetaly comes with better service. Maybe goerend makes one too. Wildandfree would know if they did. You will find that a lower stall speed will help with mileage too.

I can tell you how I do it with my truck. I know a lot of people have opinions on how to tow but this is what works best for me.1. I tow in OD. If you don't you will never get there because you can only go 50 mph. I also get better mileage in OD. I do downshift when I am pulling a hill and my speed gets to 53mph. I shift before the truck does. Then I hold the turbo at 20 lbs of boost until I get to the top.2. I have always had the j-hook. With 90hp injectors and a power puck I don't have egt problems. I try to run my truck with 12 lbs of boost. That is where I get the best mileage. It is also where the turbo whistles the loudest. I can hear when I am at the right speed.3. The three disc TC is awesome. Your transmission will run much cooler and last a lot longer. There are two parts to the equation. 1. The multi discs. 2. The stall speed. My stall speed is set at 1600. If I had it to do over again I would set it at 1800. The lower stall speed helps a lot for towing. I got my transmission rebuilt for $1100 in Los Angeles. It is just starting to show signs of age at 250k miles. I put a transgo shift kit in it.4. MPG. This has a lot to do with what you are towing. Drag is more of a factor than weight. I get anywhere from 9 to 12 mpg's with a 9,000 lb load. If you want good mileage you have to drive right. What I mean is you have to keep your momentum up as much as you can. Speed down hills and hold constant speeds up hills. Trying to accelerate heavy loads uphill is a waste of time and money. Keeping your truck's rpm's in the right range will make a huge difference. I haven't gone over 2200 rpms in a long time. I would just get a shift kit. That is all a new VB is. Don't waste your money buying parts you already have. A lot of people make nice shiftkits. I check my fluids, air filter (get a bhaf) and tire pressures a lot. Simple things can make a big difference on mpg's and keep maintenance costs down. That being said if you are towing heavy things parts will break. Every nut on the truck will rattle off at some point. My favorite towing upgrade is on my brakes. I went to a junkyard a bought third gen calipers for $80. Two new rotors and some pads and I was stopping a lot better. Then I put the 1 ton cylinders in the rear drums and tied the portion valve arm all the way up. My truck can now stop 9000lbs a lot better. In the end stopping is more important than going.

I tow boats across the country. I get lots of permits for over 10k lbs trailer loads and none have required a CDL. The Florida permit states I am good to 15k lbs on the trailer without a CDL. I have been stopped in many states and I have heard some say they thought I should have a CDL if I am over 10k but every DOT officer that has looked it up said I was ok. I don't want to argue about the laws. I am not a cop or a lawyer. I am just relaying my experience. It could be that boats are not looked at the same as flatbeds and the rules are slightly different. Another interesting note was the weight most DOT officers looked at (when not at the scales) was not the actual weight on the trailer but rather the GVWR stated on the trailer. They (Arizona and Oklahoma DOT) told me the I could not pull trailers if the gvwr of the trailer and the gvwr of the truck added together was over 26k lbs. The actual weight was not relevant if the gvwr's were over 26k.

Don't worry buddy. I'm here and so are my 820k miles. 2001 qdcb 2500.

I have some information that may help here. 1. The CGVWR is a manufacturers suggestion. It is only a suggestion. The DOT does not look at that number. They probably don't even know what it means. 2. Every state is different in how much weight they let you tow. Some states require a CDL if you tow trailer with GVWR's over 10k. In Florida if you are over 15k on the trailer then you need to have a CDL and a bigger truck. That being said I can easily tow over 20k with my truck. I say the biggest factor in what you tow should be the size of your trailer brakes. ---------- Post added at 04:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:38 AM ---------- I rarely tow anything under 10ft wide. Wide and heavy pays the best.

i am still partying at 815k miles.

The carter pump works for me. My last ip lasted for over 300k miles. The lift pumps last about 150k miles.

Your fuel pressure is supposed to fluctuate when starting. The power is pulsed to the lift pump. ---------- Post added at 12:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:22 AM ---------- You could put a resistor in line on the IAT so the values did not change for the ecm and see what happens. It would make the car hard to start when it was cold outside but otherwise shouldn't cause any problems.

I'd like to know what wild and free thinks the optimum stall speed is for a 24v. ALS says 1750, DTS says 1900, Suncoast says 1800. Mine is at 1600 and it is great for really heavy loads but I miss the pickup of the stock stall speed. I wonder if somewhere around 1800 would be a better bet. I have to be very careful to keep my rpms up when I get to a hill or I will be lacking any power to speed up. I have little power at 1500 rpm but if I can keep my rpms above 1700 I have a better ride. Of course this is all while towing. Not towing I don't that issue.

Yes and yes.

Cummins does not do compression checks. They do blow by checks. If you look on the net you can find some ways to do it at home. Basically you take the oil cap off and measure the pressure coming out of it. It is done with water and tubes and checked at different rpms.

Sometimes I just wipe mine off in place. Sometimes I wash it off in the sink.

I drive cross country and o understand wanting to know your truck will run. My truck has 786k miles on it today. I don't use that much oil and the blowby is not terrible. I was thinking about the inframe closer to the 1 million mile mark. It would be helpful to me if u did yours first so I can get some help when I do mine.

The 2001 service manual says specifically not to use ATF.

In frame at 350? Why?

Are you losing power also? It could be your vp going bad.

Now I understand the long pauses on the phone.

I have all of my tools. An extra lift pump. Voltameter. All the fluids. Extra filters. Belts and some gaskets. My favorite thing is the complete service manual. I drive long haul so I take everything I can think of. If I leave something at home that will be the tool I needed.

I replaced all of the solenoids today. I also took the VB apart and cleaned it. No more problems. I did see a lot of fine dust like particles on the governer pressure solenoid. The particles looked black. Is this tc clutch material?