Mace

Currently I have a wif sensor in the airdog water separator. Removed the drain and put the sensor in. I ran a jumper harness from that to the engine harness plug. Like I mentioned I unplugged it at the harness side and it’s still stays on. I’m not sure if this is a problem from ACS. I did order a new apps through my work (Inland Kenworth). Williams Control 131973. I should have it by Tuesday. Hopefully it solves my P0122 issue, I will check the wiring harness I made when I relocated in on Monday to confirm is not melted or something.

Just an update: I got my items back today finally. I reinstalled the ecm & pcm but my troubles aren’t gone yet. The engine runs but stumbles and falls to idle when I rev it up. As soon as I first started it the CEL was on, checked the codes with a OBD2 reader and I have an active P0122. I did do the apps reset, checked ac noise (0.021 VAC). I may need a new apps. Second issue: the wif light stays on, even with it unplugged at the engine harness it doesn’t go out. Not sure yet how to troubleshoot this one. This wasn’t a problem before. The new airdog works great. However, if I key on (engine off) the voltage reading at the oem lift pump connector (that triggers the airdog relay) is about 8.9 VDC, when I start the engine it goes up to about 14 VDC and the airdog runs and everything is fine that way. Welp.

You replaced the rail prv?

My 01 has the hole but there is a plug in it.

You could also fuel field the cp3 and watch it hopefully make full pressure.

This sounds like a rail pressure relief valve sticking open. I’d recommend taking the drain line off the PRV on the rail and confirm it’s not leaking down. They pop off at a high pressure so if anything is coming out it’s not good. Also, if your losing prime in the head you can take the return line off the back of the head and measure how much is coming out in a graduated beaker. If it’s too much the mating surfaces on the cross over tube to the injector mating face may be the issue.

WT mod should be done in full first. I don’t have much troubleshooting experience with autos as I have the 6 spd but from what I understand a lot of issues are solved when the mod is done. At least you can rule that out.

Well it’s repaired and being mailed back to John tomorrow. Here’s what they emailed me saying what they did. They didn’t come up with a cause. What a nightmare this has been. “Problem Description and Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs): P0606, P0113, P0118, P0121, and P0123 ECM Tests Results and Faults Found: • No Communication to Lift Pump • Lift Pump and APP Circuit in Short • Cold Solder Joints on CPU • No 5v Reference for Sensors • No 9.5v Reference for Lift Pump • Bad Wait to Start Light • P0606 Code Present ECM Repair Completed: • Replaced APP (Accelerator Pedal Position) Circuit. Please keep in mind this Circuit shares a Ground Circuit with additional Sensors and any one of them could be in Short (MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) Sensor, Camshaft Sensor, Water in Fuel Sensor, Engine Coolant Temp Sensor, Intake Air Temp Sensor and Oil Pressure Sensor. Please see the attached diagram.) • Replaced Lift Pump Circuit and Flash Chip • Replaced 5 Volt Driver and 9.5 Volt Driver • Resoldered CPU and 50 Pins • Updated Software • Replaced Wait to Start Light Circuit • Removed P0606 Code (Prior to installing the Rebuilt or Remanufactured ECU, you must replace both Batteries, Terminals, and clean ALL Grounds. Failure to do so will result in the P0600 Code returning and voiding your Warranty.) PCM Tests Results and Faults Found: • Cold solder joints (on CPU, Flash Chip, and Noise Filters) • Faulty Capacitors • Low Volt Reference PCM Repairs Completed: • Replaced Capacitors (220uf 35v Capacitors (x3)) • Resoldered Noise Filters, CPU, and INTEL FLASH CHIP”

Oof 16” tires… Cant run 3rd Gen brakes with those.

That looks like cheap Chinese knockoff crap that break under any kind of stress. Don’t trust your life to $119. I made my own. I used a 07 Power Wagon bar (16mm) and cut it in two and had a machine shop make a threaded turn buckle in the middle for adjustment. Worked great. The bracket I use is from Dodge Off-Road.

I’ve never added any additive to my fuel tank in 24 years. I have used that Cummins approved Diesel Kleen occasionally but never noticed a difference. I think a lot of that stuff is snake oil. The biggest hurdle in diesel fuel is water and as long as you can filter that out your gold. I’ve lived in some harsh, cold climates and never had a freeze/gelling issue either.

I replaced my control arms a couple years ago with Stryker’s as they’re a tad longer for levelled trucks and the bushings are greaseable. You can center your wheel by adjusting the drag link by the pitman arm.

Welcome! Its nice to see 2nd gen’s living on still

Well the girl is starting to come together. My Nations 180 showed up today and I’m going to install it on Monday. I’ll make sure to clean all the mounting surfaces to ensure a decent ground. My ecm & pcm are in @Tractorman care and he’s forwarding it to ACS on Monday as well. I’ve installed my Airdog 100-5G during the week. Quite happy with the install (I’ve deleted the oem filter housing now). I put a 6.7 wif sensor in the water separator and made a jumper harness from the engine harness wif connector so I can retain that. I’ve lost the heater side since I couldn’t find a filter with a heater element in it. One thing I noticed in the airdog harness is it uses the oem lift pump connector for the relay trigger and already comes with a diode suppressing relay. I removed the oem lift pump & plate and am waiting on a Fleece block off plate to cover the hole. During my adventures in wiring down on the engine harness I was leaning on top on the engine and accidentally broke the dipstick handle off. I see they discontinued it and have the “new style” dipstick & tube on order. The old tube came out surprisingly easy. Just a note about my GDP Fuel Boss removal. I ended up breaking the crank side pulley wheel to gain access to the harmonic bolts to remove the adapter. Those set screws are a PITA to get out after many years of exposure to the elements. What a nightmare it will be if you had to replace a crank seal or something all because the set screws don’t want to come out. If anyone is interested in buying my old kit I got a deal for you. You’ll just need a new pulley wheel adapter (I’m sure you can buy one from GDP) and new 3/8” hose.

I completed every aspect of the wt mod as written. That ground is soldered now.

I ordered a Nations 180amp alternator. When I was moving my truck into my works yard the rpm was going crazy and the “check gauges” light came on. I hope other components arent getting killed by this thing.

I used the SMP from Rockauto originally. It was slow or so I thought. My vacuum switch recently died at the same time so I replaced them both and my EB is quicker now. 1-2 second delay turning it on and maybe 2 delay switching it off. Noise is the same I find.

I have the 6spd but I’ll look into Nations. Had a good run of 24 years but I guess it’s just 2nd gen luck! I did the wt mod 2 years ago I never had issues up till then but it seemed like a good idea to just do it.

It’s worse now. The rpm is surging pretty bad, enough that I can’t drive it safely. My current alternator is 5 years old now maybe I should throw a new one on. Any recommendations on that or will a parts house one suffice?

Anything I can do to prevent it from happening again? I read the alternator can cause this?

Maybe some of you gents can help me now? Truck starting getting some bumpy rpms this afternoon. Drove it a bit and now it’s limping along with erratic idle. CEL on now. Codes I have: p0606 p0113 p0118 p0121 p0123 I read an article from here with someone with the same issues/codes and it was an ecm failure. I have the WT mods done, batts are clean & tight. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now so I thought id drop this topic. Any recommend ecm rebuilders?! Thoughts?

I’m glad it worked out. What a difference Ive had to replace my electric pump recently already as mine died. I replaced it with a Dorman one. See how long that lasts…

Here’s another idea: I’m looking at an Air Dog 100 5G for simplicity. I like how their kit uses the ecm lift pump connector for its relay trigger. I suppose I could use a relay with a diode suppressor to protect the ecm. So it’s either a dedicated draw straw or a tank sump to supply fuel to the AD. I see on AD’s website they have a plastic 3/8”connector to 1/2” barb fitting. Could I use the oem 3/8” fuel module supply port to fuel the AD? It would be cleaner, I already have a draw straw in the tank for the Webasto. Edit: Nevermind, their kit does draw from the oem module supply fitting.

I said that too for the first 22 years of ownership, now I’ll never own anything without one.

I really like that Fleece in tank powerflo pump setup. Pricey though