Greenlee

I just finished looking at your photo bucket on your Dodge. Impressive, is there anything left on your 2500 that you have not taken apart yet? How did you keep up with all the hardware and where it goes back? Makes me want to pull mine apart or the next one apart and rebuild everything. Anyone could use your photos for reference when having second thoughts about pulling a truck apart. Was your Dodge in bad shape when you bought it and you did the interior, paint and body, mechanics, and so forth? As long as you are in good physical shape and have the mechanical ability, it would be like getting a new rebuilt Cummins like John the Diesel Man claims to be doing. Did you paint it? Thanks for the great pictures. You have a great deal of knowledge on the Cummins as well as engineering, did this come from experience or school?

I fell victim to the same thing, trying to find torque specs when I was installing new injectors. Looks like your transmission up grade is working out good. In your signature you already have a Goerend/Dynotec transmission, when it was built was this a option or something that is only done with upgraded transmission. Will this increase your ability to handle more horse power....how much do you think? The reason I am asking is I will be looking for another Dodge Cummins soon that is automatic and this might be something I can do once again. My first Dodge was a 68 and my second was a 71, I put a valve body kit in at the time but was probably to stupid to know if I did it correctly, like a bull in a china store, I don't think I keep anything as clean as it should be but back then you did all of your mechanics and engine rebuilding and learn as you go. With all that you are running on your Cummins it must move pretty good. Thannks

They would need more than a transmission job with the bodies falling off. Reading this post lets me know if you make some mild changes with Accumulator springs and valve bodies if I'm reading it right Looks like I did a two post again by luck, no skills necessary. With the rust there should be plenty of parts. 21.Install the valve body mounting bolts, ensuring the different length bolts are installed in the proper positions, and torque evenly to 100 inch pounds I dont' know if this is the torque specs you were looking for but I found them when reading more information about the install from BD. The link is: http://www.xtremediesel.com/manuals/1030418_419ValveBodyInstallation.pdf

I think I mixed up members, should have paid more attention. I see that it's not Russ Roth but you, dave110. Thanks for joining in. Let me know how it does.

Yes Sir, I don't mind looking at anything you send my way. Are PA trucks rust free? I hear a lot of times up North that individuals put up the good stuff for the winter and drive a junker in case of ice causing a slide into someone else. Where is the best place to look up value of a 2002 Cummins loaded with low miles? Send a way when ready.

Your 2 cents means a lot to me. My brother is buying my 99 and will come pick it up on the way to his new job in S.C. I will give him a great deal, he is the type to drive it until the wheels fall off. He will do his best to buy the best parts and change fluids on time. I have a 53 block and I have put a lot of Money in this Cummins but the 5 speed is too much so it's time to look for an automatic. Your opinion is one reason I did not go back with a Duramax, you are limited to work on it because of the electronics and replacement parts are exactly as expressed above. What I would like is something be 2000 and 2002 but for trucks that fit the bill it's pretty high, $18K to $25K with very low mileage at the top. The second gen is not bad to work on and even I can do what's needed with better prices on parts it's a win. I wish I was young again to do a tear down like TFaoro is doing with his Cummins. I guess when I find one that fits the ticket I would drive it until something breaks before I start putting build parts into the plan. On a stock Cummins automatic would a tuner be alright to use on the mild end or would it be better to wait until the transmission is rebuilt?

It will be one bad Cummins. I hope it all turns out great for you, I don't even know you and I'm already proud of what you have accomplished. It's a pleasure to read all that you have documented and shared with the Forum Members and I am certain that this will not be the last big post from you...Twin Turbos and Injectors will make another great post. God Bless.

Are you going to plumb a small radiator off the back of the block or is it more for easy access to the rear when changing coolant? What kind of Horse Power do you plan on having with this rebuild? Did you have to beef up your 5 Speed to handle the extra power? I hope you record what it sounds like for everyone to hear.

Thank you Russ Roth for sharing this valuable information. I would like to hear your opinion on 24 valve vs newer CR 5.9 or 6.7 Cummins. My younger brother is in need of a good truck like mine, he also is a Cummins man who is starting a new job in a new location. I want to make a deal on mine to help him out. Now if I do this I will need another truck, an automatic. I am looking at 1999 to 2002 4-door Cummins/4x4. I have also priced some CR Cummins that range from 20K to 26K a little over what I want to spend. When I sold my Duramax I looked to the 24 valve because it seemed to be less cost to replace parts than a newer one. Every 24 valve I have looked at for sale that are in the best shape run from 13K to 26K and based on that you would need a big down if you monthly. What do you like about the 24 valve compared to a newer Diesel?

I appreciate your post, sometime in the future I am going to go to an automatic. I am certain I will have it built or buy one from a builder. I'll check out Dynotec and Goerend for options

Goerend Builds and sells everything, They build there TORQUE CONVERTER, VALVE BODY, complete rebuild kits with all upgrades, Billet input and output shafts, They Used to Build complete Trans. exchange, But they've now have turned that over to "DYNOTEC" a company in Jordan, Minn I Just installed one from them last year in my Truck, and i Love it. Dynotec and Goerend both are excellent to deal with.

It's not an outrageous costs to use 2 Stroke Oil. I would like to know where you are limited to use 2 cycle or does it matter if you add it to any CR or a 3 cylinder diesel engine or is it limited to older diesels like a 24 vale and 12 valve.

Like trying to spray paint your Cummins with a 3/4 HP compressor, The PSI goes to 130 but the CFM is 1.5. As soon as the tank is empty (MT) and the compressor kicks on it can't keep up with the demand for volume.......................or pressure. The VP44 is similar if you tried to run it with relief valve rated for less pressure than 14 PSI. You would have to come up with a different term other than "HEAT CYCLES"

one sender is for fuel what is the other for?

I don't want to barge in but I have a question for anybody about automatic transmissions in Cummins trucks. I'm reading this topic to continue learning about Dodge trucks. How much horsepower can the 47RE be built to handle. Is there a list of other automatics that will work good with a Cummins engine. With good mechanical skills do members take on the task of building their own transmissions? What does the Gorend brand sell to beef a transmission up? Thanks and good luck with fixing your issue.

Here goes another stupid question. Why can't you install a relief valve that required way less pressure to cool the VP44? Wouldn't a constant flow of 5psi to 7psi that was returning to the tank work just as good as the 14 psi relief valve being used today?

I ran out of 2 stoke oil this week so I only put 10 gallons in, had to do this twice. I picked up some 2 stroke at Walmart, 2 pint size bottles, 16oz each costs $2.43 per pint bottle or for the same brand, Super Tech, price per gallon is $12.15. I ran 2 tanks of 10 gallons each with no 2 cycle oil. My engine was louder and the performance down a little. I added about 6 ozs and cranked up. It didn't take long to hear the difference and feel the difference while driving. I don't know how many brand of diesels, Ford, GM, CR Cummins and so forth you can use 2 cycle in the fuel but I am a believer now and will continue to use it in any application that it will work with. One of the best keep secrets I ever learned.

I appreciate what you are saying. I am way off on this. I am trying to get away from CR because of the costs of parts and repairs. Looks like it all adds up regardless of the year, make, and model. TFaoro has presented a great post...lots of questions and good answers for everyone to read. Can't wait to see how the assembly turns out.

I want to make certain I am looking at owning a Cummins for the right reasons. My first diesel was an 06 GMC SLT Crew Cab/Leather. Nothing was cheap as far as adding performance parts. Stock with no tune I got 17MPG combined city and highway. The first tune I used was from Duratune, It brought me up about 60 HP and 18 MPG city and 23 MPG highway, with better results depending on direction and wind. Very fast truck when I got done with it, very Dependable to drive. I was a Pipeline Inspector when I bought it so I had it everywhere off road you can imagine. Had to rethink the income once I was forced to retire. My reason for buying the 24 valve was comparing costs of injectors, turbos, exhaust systems, and so forth was the Cummins was not only a million mile motor but had lower maintenance requirements to drive. Maybe I am off on the way I am thinking about this and the main reason you buy any Diesel is because you like it and the way it drives doesn't matter. Maybe my retirement has slowed my brain down too much.

It's been so long since I was doing a rebuild of any kind. If I can remember that far back it was sometime during the early 1990's. You and your brother made short order of pulling your Cummins apart, made it look too easy. This will be one post that will have the attention of anyone who owns a Cummins 24 valve. Without being nosy, I don't want you to disclose the money it took but I would like to know if you or someone else knows what would it take to build a FORD, DURAMAX, or any newer Common Rail engine including a newer Cummins? I understand that any rebuild is going to cost you but aren't the 12 valve and 24 valve cheaper to drive in terms of maintenance?

I have been using 1st gear since I bought my truck, Prior I would also start in 2nd gear but the truck manual stated started to always start in 1st so I did thinking if I didn't it might cause some harm to the transmission. Once again like an idiot I fell today, not able to use my left arm much so I had to drive to an appointment. Used 2nd gear like you mentioned above and it was so much easier trying to get around saving an extra shift. I appreciate your input

I remember seeing it, I didn't recognize it being a thrust bearing. It's a lot of work to record and document all of the pictures and comments put into this tear down.

Was there a picture showing the thrust bearing?

After reading half of the post on Tear Down, it's difficult to get rid of such a good truck. There has to be a way to modify the clutch for easier use. This is the main reason I bought my Cummins. Is it easier to drive a 6 speed NV verses the 5 speed NV? It never dawned on me how many educated members we have that have been to school on diesels or have schooled themselves to gain the knowledge shared. I feel confident that I will get my smoke issues figured out, compared to the posts by other members and the problems encountered this should be a walk in the park once you begin to understand what's going on with the engine. Back on it tomorrow, who do I send a video to for posting?

Close up. Beautiful job, With enough elbow grease you could put your younger brother to work on the side for any Forum Members who would like to see this on their trucks lol. With what you would charge you could be buying built crate engines.