CTcummins24V

The back of my oem APPS says .487, voltmeter reads .57, so I need to turn the idle screw back to .487 or lower and then reinstall my Timbo and I'm good to go?

I second the ratchet strap/s! I used a tranny adapter on my floor jack and didn't chain it or strap and it slipped off the jack...not fun. Next time around I used 1 ratchet strap and it worked great.

Just swapped out the Timbo APPS for my original and it's reading .570. Is it safe to say I have a defective Timbo APPS?

P0122. APPS is reading .2, it should be reading .580 to .7...and I just stripped out the idle stop screw...any suggestions on getting that head out, T20 torx?

I'm an idiot, I didn't take the rubber boots off. Batteries are reading fine. Now, I can't get the reading on the APPS and I have a code saying low APPS voltage.

I'm not good with wiring/volts etc. I'm trying to install a Timbo APPS and I can't seem to get things right. My battery tester works, but only has a range of 4v-19v (first picture) so it's out of range for the APPS. I just bought a another voltmeter and I can't even get it to read the battery volts...do I have things plugged in the right areas? According to the directions I should hvae the leads in the right areas and setting at 200 or 500 for the battery and I'm still getting nothing!

I'm not getting any voltage from my Timbo APPS, I need to do some trouble shooting...

I just did some tranny work and now my truck almost stalls out when I put it in reverse too. I have also had low voltage codes from my apps. I will replace my apps today with a Timbo and report back.

Mine loped after my 60 +HP injector install, then I popped the hood and found 2 of the injector lines were leaking where they screw into the head. Any codes? Start there. Since this was a problem previous to the injector install, and it get's better with fuel, it could be a fuel delivery problem or APPS problem.

Have heard of them, don't know anything about them. Local to you?

Ditto!

I always thought MountainTom...you know what happens when you assume. Fun is. I hate to say it, but might as well look at rest of the tranny and make sure she's good. My budget friendly repairs cost me a lot in labor, luckily my labor hours are free.

No performance gain. I removed mine on my HY35 and WH1C, just makes the turbo sound a little louder. I think it's strictly there to dampen turbo whistle. Rumor has it, removal of the ring increases turbo surge, but I think that is an old wive's tale.

Are you located in PA?

Ohh that's nice! I like the 2 tone and clean axle and u-bolts haha. How much power is she putting down?

Cummins torque and a grabby triple disc. Your transmission just found the next weakest link I guess. 833 ft-lbs is nothing to scoff at...I can't imagine what 1,200 ft-lbs or higher feels like!

...time for a Fuel Boss!

Looks like the track bar to me, where it meets the axle. Where does it connect?

Oops, after looking at your picture again it seems your hub failed. I believe they use a stronger metal for the hub.

I think they increase the number of splines for the input shaft to drum connection, so there is better load distribution and hence more strength!

Welcome! Let's see some pics of that p-pumped monster!

Sweet! What gear do you "launch" in? Was there a shift in there?

The billet shaft definitely has thicker walls. The fluid hole is smaller and the outer walls are thicker too. The first 3 pics are the oem shaft, the next 2 are the TCS shaft.

47re woes...I hate automatic transmissions. NV4500/5600 swap!

Thanks Caj, very informative. I did not know the dowels and pilot were so important.