TFaoro

Not good!! If you are going to stack the programmers you need to run the smarty on only even numbered settings. Those are the settings that only do fuel (No timing added). The edge will do the timing if you have it on there. Running the smarty on odd numbered settings with the edge on doubles the timing!!! Without the edge run any number. With them stacked only run 2,4,6,or 8!

By adjustments I'm guessing you mean to your edge comp and smarty? When I had both on my truck with the max I saw was 38 psi. And egts were at 1400 and climbing. What settings were you on for each? Was that with or without the boost elbow?

Wow! I had no idea! Learn something new every day Thanks!

With only the smarty you aren't really risking over-spooling the turbo, but it is never a good idea to leave the wastegate unhooked. I suggest putting a boost elbow on it and setting the pressure to around 30psi. Just my . Here is a link http://www.vulcanperformance.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=boost+elbow&Search.x=0&Search.y=0

Yankneck696, when my truck is warm (180-190 deg) and I change the selector over to the 6cyl high idle my oil pressure gauge increases too? When the truck is cold idling I see 50lbs of oil pressure. When it is warm it is just under 40lbs. When the selector is set to the 6 cyl idle, before the truck starts to idle high the oil pressure gauge increases to about 50. Is this normal??

Does anyone know if the 3rd gen trucks retard the timing when it is cold out? I think my brother is more interested in a mpg fooler than anything. If the timing isn't changed I can let him know and drop the subject.

If you don't have the puke bottle it probably fell off and the oil is now clogging your radiator. The only way to tell if you have an updated case is to take the front cover off.

Yankneck696, I just got my gauge mounted fooler today. It looks great and works great. Are you considering building any units for the 3rd gen trucks? My brother has an 05 and he is very interested if you are going to build any.

Mine started to do the same thing. My track bar joint was worn out. I replaced the end with a "Luke's Link". It is a lifetime fix that is adjustable and works on all of the tie rod ends on our trucks.

I currently have the S03 on my truck. It can be very smoky on the bottom end if you mash the skinny pedal. Try playing with the settings including the torque management, and timing. You can custom "tune" your truck with these settings. Almost all of the settings are a bit smokey though. Just don't have a lead foot and you will be fine!

Have you tried leaving the fuel tank cap loose to see if there is a vacuum inside the tank?

Allowing too much current to flow through could end up melting the wires that supply power to the pump. If it keeps burning out the fuse rated for it there is either a short somewhere in wiring, or the motor on the pump is bad.

I do have a stealth plate, but I am waiting to hear back from Industrial if it will void the warranty. Even though it is a "stealth" plate it is very easy for them to open the pump and see if the wire has been pierced.

That is correct, but the smarty does a better job without a wire tap so I will use that until my one year warranty is up!

Since I bought a rebuilt injection pump from Industrial Injection, I have taken the edge comp out of my truck (Don't want to void warranty). With my smarty I have all of the pulling power i want. I hauled 14 thousand pounds of shredded paper on a 6 thousand pound trailer and had plenty of power with the smarty alone. The egts stay at or below 1200 deg too. The low end power gains are unmatched. I have also done some "custom" tunes by changing the torque management and timing management. With the adjustments I have gotten 21mpg in city/highway driving mix. As stated above it also enables the high idle, reads DTC codes and can change the tire height. It was well worth the money and I recommend it to anyone for pulling trailers! Try checking craigslist to see if there are any cheap ones for sale!

Do you use 2 stroke oil in your fuel?

That is a major reason I chose to go with the Industrial Injection pump. The guy I ordered it through told me that last year he sold 70 of those pumps and didn't have a single warranty claim!

I am a little confused though, because the new cap does allow air to enter. I can suck on the end of it and air does flow. It acts like it has a one way "valve" in it though because I can't blow through it??

Just cracked the cap and started it... Fired right up with barely any cranking! Now.. If the vent on the top of the tank is clogged, how do I clean it so that it will work properly? I don't want to run the truck without a cap because we have tons of dust during the summer and lots of snow during the winter. My new VP won't like dirt and water

I just put a new locking cap on at Christmas, and I sucked on the end of it... It vents very well. I will start checking return lines to find where air is entering the system. After about 30min of sitting it starts hard. I have started it around 4-5 times today running errands and every one has been a hard start.

Injection pump has brand new electronics? I don't believe this will help, but I will give it a try.

Update: Blue Chip would not upgrade me to a pump with the new electronics, and I have given up faith on their pumps. I do appreciate that Doug is refunding my money once he sends me a core and I return the pump that has messed up timing. I have since purchased a pump from Industrial Injection and all of the problems have subsided! I even went about 125 miles today on the highway and some traffic and got 21mpg! New Problem: The truck is randomly taking longer to fire than normal. It is usually when the truck is between 140-150 degrees.(-3 deg this morning and fired right away with short crank time & no block heater plugged in) I talked to a trusted mechanic today and he suggested checking the return line on the back of the head to see if there is air entering the system from there. Has anyone done this? I have no idea how or what I am looking for.

Short blip on my 02, but I do have a smarty

Pull hard with it and see if it slips!

I had a valair clutch slip on me with about 90k on it. When I went to replace it i found the disk was rubbing metal on metal on the flywheel and the pressure plate. I went with south bend for my new one, but I don't know how bad the previous owner abused the valair he bought. My guess would be you need a new clutch if it has slipped.