TFaoro

The sealing ring had a spot that looked like it was blowing right past it, and the bottom of that injector below the O ring was pure black. The rest of the injectors appear to be ok. I have a buddy with a snap-on camera that I can use... Thank you for that advice! Tomorrow I will see if I can get the injectors down to be flow and pop tested. If they are bad, I am going to buy a set of DAP 100 horse injectors!

Update: Today I pulled the truck into the shop and dropped the tank. From there I pulled the return line and ran it into a can. Holding the line under a decent amount of fuel it was obvious tons of air was being pumped into the return lines. So I pulled all of the injectors and ordered a set of injector O rings, cross over tube O rings, and copper washers. One of the injectors was completely black below the O ring, so I'm pretty sure that was the leaking injector. I am considering a new set of 100 horse injectors while I have everything apart. One question: Is there some special way to clean or where the copper washers seat inside the head?

Is there an easy way to test if air or compression is being pumped into the tank? Will pulling the return life off while the engine is running and letting it pour into a bucket show if there is any aeration from an injector seal? Right now I have to drive around with my fuel cap loose so that I don't build tons of pressure inside the tank. Thanks again for all the help!

So should it vent after a certain psi, or should it hold all pressure no matter what?

It is not accurate on the 2002's for sure. Mine does the same as MoparMan's

Thanks for the tips guys. I will be looking into it this next week. Does anyone know how the tank is supposed to vent, and what part I would need to at least fix my venting problem?

Do you know for sure you ecm is flashed for the high idle?? I doubt both of the high idle modes would be faulty

With the cap left loose it starts with zero problems! No white smoke even at 30deg. After starting I tightened down the fuel cap and drove to school. I had pressure built up in the tank by the time I got to school (6miles). The outside temp was increasing pretty quickly, but I didn't think quick enough to cause pressure that fast?? Any thoughts as to why I get pressure in the tank built up so quickly?

Blew it out of my hand as in pressure inside the tank not a vacuum I will report back in a couple hours after I go start it......

I like pictures! Have any of you ladies or gentlemen registered for the cummins high mileage club and gotten your badges??

Leaving the cap loose seems to have fixed the issue, but I won't know for sure until tomorrow. As to how the pressure built up I think it was the drastic change in temperature. We went from below freezing to the 60's. When I have the cap off and the engine running there isn't any "blow by" coming out of the hole so I believe my injectors are OK. Thank you guys for your input!

The exhaust clears up if I drive it a little ways and it warms up. There is a "cough" sometimes when it starts, but never missing while it runs. Either way it does clear up, which makes me lean against a broken injector, but I should probably pull them and have them tested anyways ( 174, 055 miles ). I have spring break next week and I will be home to pull some things apart... As for now this is my dd so it can't sit. Keep the ideas coming guys I really appreciate your time!

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I just pulled the cap off my fuel tank for the hell of it and there was enough pressure to blow it out of my hand... Like a ridiculous amount of pressure. Could that be causing anything??

I thought the same thing! Really made me want to punch the guy in the face. You have been running a pressure near mine, if I am correct, and you have what 200k on your pump? I asked to see his test bench and he claimed it was at his house in a controlled environment. He also said that everything Industrial Injection rebuilds or makes is sh%t. I thought the guy was a real tool.... Left some white smoke in his shop when I left . But all kidding aside, I have no idea what is going on with this "issue" I have to drive it for the next week, then I will go home and tear it apart. Would the issue go away when the engine is warm though? I will be the first to admit I know nothing about injectors. We had some old tractors that did the same thing, but this truck has never white smoked even down into the negative temperatures??

The one on the screen is the first number. In MoparMan's case it is 5. The sublevel is set by holding down the power button for a few seconds. The little lights flash really fast, and that is the second setting.

I actually did that last night and left it over night with a positive and negative terminal touching. Still doing it though. I was told by a diesel mechanic today that my fuel pressure is too high and that I ruined the diaphragm. Oh he also said he has his own test bench sitting at his house and that he rebuilds the vp44's himself....

I set all of the parameters on the smarty back to default then set the truck to stock. I still have no codes reading them with the smarty. Fuel pressure is a normal 19psi. Smoke smells like raw diesel no hint of antifreeze. Checked oil and coolant this morning both right at the full level. It was a pita to start this morning with the temperatures. I don't know how this is still going on with everything unplugged. Could the edge have fried the pump computer?

Still no codes. It just started when I put the comp on and progressively got worse. Now everything is unhooked and it's still doing it. The white smoke stops after driving a ways this was after it was running for 30 sec or so. engine temp at 185

Problems are getting worse.... I unplugged everything on the edge and now it is starting rough with a big cloud of white smoke. Then idling it has a constant stream of white smoke coming out. Still no codes HELP!

I still have warranty on my pump, so I am waiting to tap it.... for now. It was set on 5x5 when doing that. I never tried changing the power level or the low boost fueling. Turning the box off it acts the same just with less power.... That's why I was thinking maybe it was the map sensor as it does still do the boost fooling when it is shut off. Does anyone know if the MAP sensor can cause changes like that?

Ok I can't seem to figure out what the noise my engine makes. I just installed my edge comp box yesterday (Not wire tapped) to make sure everything was going to work properly when I do decide to tap the pump. Now when the engine is down in the lower rpms and i stab the throttle I get a slight loss of power, and a terrible "grunting" sound. To me it sounds like the timing is WAY off from what is should be, But as soon as I build a couple pounds of boost the horrible noise goes away and the power comes on instantly. I have no codes, smarty is set to stock, FP is 15wot 19idling. IP is 2 1/2 months old. I thought I had read somewhere that if the MAP sensor voltage is way low it will change the timing, but I could be wrong. Any thoughts?? Sorry for the paragraph I'm just baffled Thanks in advance

My pump has been on for 2 and 1/2 months now. Not very long, but with 2 stroke and a good lift pump I plan on a long life out of this pump. I take this truck to the middle of no where snowmobiling, so I have to have reliablility. I've had no issues starting it in -15deg F when snowmobiling. Industrial makes quality products and DAP only sells quality products. You won't be disappointed!

DAP is a reputable dealer. I know one of their injection pump suppliers is industrial injection. The computers on top are new. The online vendor sounds like Blue Chip?? FYI I went through 2 Blue Chip pumps in less than a month. I now have an industrial injection that I am more than pleased with. Long story short, call DAP and get an injection pump lift pump combo. You won't be disappointed with service or quality

Mine runs around 1/2 normal psi while cranking. Mopar Man has a video showing how his pump does push fuel while cranking.

Doesn't count without pictures!!!