TFaoro

mmm Pictures! Looks like you're making good progress!

Might be a dumb question... How do you know if it's fly by wire or vacuum controlled?

I had a buddy whose cruise control quit working... It turned out to be the clockspring assembly.... I wonder if it was getting bad contact?? Found this http://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/237211-Cruise-control-clock-spring-repair I'm not sure if our second gens are the same as the first gens

Okay maybe not worthless, but I think everyone would like to see some pics!

I put WD40 on mine in May (Did the same thing to my brother's 05) ... Hasn't made a noise since. Hopefully you find what works for you

Not sure how much money he wants to spend... https://www.industrialinjection.com/shop/category/engine-transmission/cummins/pistons/

WD40... put rags all around just in case you drip and squirt a bit in there!

A video of the turbo with the engine running and the intake off would make it pretty easy to tell if you have a turbo issue

I agree. I've heard it is always better to leave a tank full when sitting that way the tank has very little air in it. With little air, it is difficult for water to condense on the walls of the tank and dilute the fuel with water.

Low on fuel, and it all ran to the front of the tank?

In this case the return rate on the injectors was so high that the cp3 couldn't build any pressure. As stated before though, I have seen them stick open, and when you drive them like that it destroys that cylinder / piston. The filtering is the other issue... one small piece of dirt, and it'll wipe out an injector.

03-07 CR Injectors are not nearly that expensive (More like 4-500). The 6.7L I have no idea. From my experience they will live Much longer with aftermarket filtering, but on stock filtering I have seen them dye before 100k. (My buddy's went out at 98,500 on his 03) My brothers have lasted to 158k but he also has a fass 150 with dual filters. I think 150k is about average for those injectors, then you are running on borrowed time. If I am wrong please correct me

They are tough, easy to work on, and cheap relative to 3rd gen+ I'd never trade mine for a 3rd gen! Someday I'll be burried in it

Whatever you feel comfortable with. I personally control my EGT and power with my foot. I never put mine to the floor while towing with my setup... I'm too afraid something will break!

Well this weekend I tapped the 123 collector and stuck the TST probe in there. My Autometer gauge can not be cut or spliced anywhere. The leads run from the probe straight to the gauge with no connections in between. When I buy water meth I will see if the TST and Snow Performance can be connected using the TST probe, which is bolted together about 6 inches after the probe. On a side note, I tore all of the seats and carpet out out for reupholstering and cleaning, then pulled the bed, mirrors, bumpers, grille, and other crap to drop it off at paint.... Been one day and I'm already missing her!

I was thinking the same thing, or the autometer in 4-5-6 Snow max in 1-2-3 (It needs an accurate reading to produce better mileage) And the TST Post turbo because I really don't care what it says as long as it has a reading. Thanks for the replies guys! Keep em coming! Ilikeoldfords I wish I could, but each gauge is calibrated to that probe with that length of wire ( At least that's how I understand it ) Longer and shorter leads would lead to different resistances, causing different readings. I want the autometer accurate for towing purposes, and the MPG max accurate for good mileage!

I used the search function and didn't find much, and I read the thread that is just below this one, but didn't really find anything that was useful to my situation. I just bought and installed a TST PM3, replacing my edge comp. It came with the R45 remote, which shows boost and exhaust temp. The box will not fuel without a pyrometer reading, and I do am not going to remove my autometer gauge. I also plan on installing a Snow Performance MPG max kit this coming summer (Also requires an EGT Probe). What are your suggestions? 2 in the manifold 1 post turbo? All 3 in the manifold? If so where should I drill? Thanks for the help!

If he thinks it is worth the same as a second gen buy it for 12k and flip it! He can get a pretty good 2nd gen for 12k.

Heard of one guy saying he was going to use them, but nothing more. Have you called DAP to see if they can order you in a set of 100's?

How hot does it get in 5th gear with the same outside temps?

Nice setup! Do you think the fast coolers really helped cool it off? The extra fluid capacity should have dropped temperatures as well

Anyone interested in a write up on these?

Interesting.... I'm going to have to do some measuring now to see what the actual numbers are! Good thinking. Next time I load it down I will disconnect the bars to see which way the tension would have been on the bars.

The spring shackles are to the rear of the truck.... Thus as you add weight the axle moves backwards slightly. It's how the suspension works. I understand the traction bars are supposed to keep the axle from wrapping . I built a set because I was getting bad wheel hop when the programmers were turned up and the tires would break loose.

Does anyone here know how to set up traction bars for towing? I know the axle moves backwards as weight is applied, so I'm curious if I should unhook the bars, load the trailer, then hook em back up and set the pre-load on them........ Any advice is appreciated!