TFaoro

He has been running the lowest SW with the TNT software. I believe smarty calls it a 130hp tune. We haven't loaded a UDC yet as he just ordered the dongle yesterday Here are his mods: SB DD clutch (NV5600) 62/65/14 phatshaft turbo S&B intake and intake horn 4" turbo back magnaflow exhaust indurstrial 85% over cp3 Exergy 100hp tips 3.73 gears on 33" tires I'm sure I forgot a few things, but the truck runs very well! It has some timing rattle which annoys the crap out of me but overall power is impressive! We would like to keep the top end power and decrease the smoke output. A few mpg wouldn't hurt as well! John how much do you sell your tunes for? I found the spreadsheet you made and that alone impressed me!

Any guys over here running smarty UDC tuning that you have programmed yourself? I've downloaded the software, and am looking into helping my brother write programs for his 05. The software seems simple and straight forward. He is just looking to decrease low end smoke and increase fuel mileage. After hours of searching the forums this looks like the way to go!

You could put a small long piece of rubber down the hole and when it stops moving up you are at tdc

Maybe it's affecting the apps sensor somehow. You need to get the truck back to 100% stock! No EB no Quad nothing that can effect. If you still have surge I would say cam positioning sensor or VP. (That is if you are 100% sure on the apps being good)

Is your tach still bouncing like you talked about before? I would start with a new one. Also did you ever get around to removing the quad 100% like every connection so you are back to stock? You mentioned the exhaust brake hooks into the apps as well?? Might try removing that wiring too.

1400...... Where did you buy it?? Much cheaper vendors out there with the same quality product

I'll be picking the truck up a week from tomorrow I probably shouldn't promise that I will buy a cover just yet.. Guess I'll have to check the bank account after paying for paint Between school and this truck I don't think I'll ever have any money....

Colorado is far from flat!! We may not have 16% grades but we do get pretty steep! 7% grade at 10,500ft + with two snowmobiles a trailer and gear on back without overheating issues. Like I said Highest coolant temperatures seen have been right around 200deg. I think I am going to buy the cover and post up some results for informational purposes when winter comes around... Oh and I guess I need the truck back from paint first too

I haven't seen that article before. Interesting thoughts! But I have never had my engine coolant temps raise above 200 even at 50deg ambient temps running 75mph. EGT temps have never changed when I put it in either. The IAT I am unsure of, but I recently picked up a scan gauge and will find out the results! http://www.genosgarage.com/DODGE-RAM-WINTER-GRILLE-COVER-94-02/productinfo/WINTER_FR_9402/#.VC9A9_ldWSo Even this cover goes right up against the condenser and intercooler....

The throw out bearing should come in the kit. I went with South Bend. The guys there were great to work with. If you talk to Peter he will recommend a clutch that will suit you well even if you don't buy from him.

A big piece of cardboard between the radiator and the intercooler. I cut a circle out of the middle with the rest of the radiator being completely covered.

Mopar man might know this better, but I thought the cam sensor could throw some wacky codes, make hard starts and other things that seem similar to a dying VP. AC noise is an alternating current coming out of the alternator. Small levels are ok, but higher levels are not. Here is the how to

I see! I guess we'll see how my mileage does with the SAC 125s

I've now read a couple different threads where the VCO nozzle has cracked across the tip of the injector. I'm not saying yours will, but that was my main reason for going with SACs. Make sure to post your results!

Don't forget about the PSG! I don't think it likes AC either.... As mike has said, that may be a major contributor to VP failures

Max temp all depends on how hot for how long... I don't think anyone has any specific number or time for that number, but as stated above below 1200 should be fine even for extended periods.

I'd have to disagree. I'm a big fan of autometer. I have 3 on my truck, my brother has 2, my neighbor has 2, and my dad has 2. My dads have been in since the late 90's to early 2000's and he hasn't had a problem. Mine have been trouble free as well. I think it's more personal preference than anything.

I got my seals from Napa for around 40 each. I have 180k+ on my dodge and the axles didn't have any groves in them from the seals. After replacing I haven't had a drop leak out yet! Before everywhere I stopped there would be drips running down the tire onto the concrete

Piston pics?? I'd like to see what it looks like if you don't mind! Could you tell if the cooling jets in #6 were clogged, causing the piston to overheat?

Little story here just in case anyone is wondering if they should buy anything from DAP. I bought a set of injectors last spring because my copper washers were leaking compression back into the fuel tank and I figured at 180k with the injectors out I might as well throw in a new set. For 400 bucks I didn't have much to loose. Immediately I could tell the motor was much quieter and it had a ton more power. (Oh still getting 21+ mpg too) Within the last month or two I have developed a slight miss in the #3 injector which is progressively getting worse. I pulled it apart and found the pintle wasn't moving up and down easily even after cleaning thoroughly. I called Jacob and told him about the problem. They offered to test all 6 for free and fix / replace any that were not working properly for free. Well I decide I wanted to go bigger and try a set of SAC nozzles. Once I send in my old ones he is sending a set of SAC 125s for a very low cost! (Surprised me how low) I have never worked with a company willing to help a customer out like they do. If you need a place for parts support them! They will work to satisfy you, and they support this forum and CF.

Especially up here at altitude. My brother's 05 100% stock with 135k would go over 1500deg on the pyro at 85mph.

I did it this summer. It wasn't that bad of a job relatively speaking. I pulled both bearing assemblies with the axle shafts still attached, pulled the CAD and diff cover, marked the caps that hold the differential in place, pulled the caps and laid under the the axle while my dad used a bar and gently pried on the inside of the ring gear. It popped out much easier than expected. We then used 3/4in drive sockets and LOTS of extensions to drive the seals out. Getting the new ones in was a bear though! Using sockets and extensions we drove the new seals back into place. I had to use a flapper wheel on a grinder to taper the edge of both seals just a hair so that we could get the seals started in straight. Didn't do any damage to the seals, but made them start easier and go in straight. We then put the differential back in and torqued the caps down. Be VERY careful sliding the axle shafts back into place, as it is easy to hit the seal and rip it. The short shaft between the CAD and the differential was a pain the get lined back up and locked in, but it can be done! Overall not too bad. If anyone has questions about any part of the repair let me know.

I hope you weren't running 10oz per gallon.... Maybe 1.0 oz per gallon?? When was the last time the valves were adjusted?

I believe the tip torque is 35 ft-lb Injector hold down are 89 in-lb Really simple process. Just make sure you keep everything clean! Why'd you pick up another set of injectors? I would use the ones you have in there if you know the pop off pressures are correct.

Thanks! I'll have to check it out when I get it back from paint!