TFaoro

All temperatures. From the moment it starts up to 190 Well the UPS couldn't find my address today So I had to head back up to school before getting the pump on and testing for air getting sucked in before the pump. I'll have my father put the pump on and take it to my painter to get waxed tomorrow. I should get home Saturday to test for air in the lines.

Zero oil consumption in 5,000 miles. Seemed gradual to me but I can't remember exactly.

I would personally look into the opti-lube winter blend. It keeps the pump lubed up nicely http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/68-hfrr-testing-of-common-diesel-fuel-additives

Great questions rancherman. It can be heard at the engine (Hood open or closed), which gives a knock and shakes the truck a bit. It can be heard at the exhaust as well. The exhaust is a Magnaflow 4 inch turbo back with a muffler. All of the connections in the exhaust system are tight and not leaking (Verified this morning). As for when it misses.... freewheeling is when it is most noticeable. Once under boost you can't hear anything over the turbo so if it is missing under boost I have no idea. I'll see if I can test a bit more today and give you an accurate description. I haven't driven it in close to a month.

Glad you got it figured out and it was easy!

No sir... Can not seem to narrow it down to a single cylinder They have all been good ideas! I'm about out myself.... Industrial Injection is the one who tested it on their Bosch test bench, so I think they did a good job. As for temperature it doesn't really matter how hot the EGTs are or the engine temp ... it has that slight miss either way. Hopefully a piece of clear line will tell me there is air in the line.

Pushrods have been checked and all 12 are straight. The adjustment on all of the exhaust rockers are very close, and the adjustment on all of the intake rockers are very close. If there was a broken ring I believe it would have shown up on compression or leakdown test. 10 psi difference does not point towards a ring. The pump didn't show up today So tomorrow I should be able to test the fuel with a clear line. I'm hoping it's something as simple as air in the fuel!

I am going to pull all of the pushrods now. We'll see if ant are bent. I will also check those things Tom. Thank you

Great thoughts guys! Sorry I have been away. Let me answer a few things here.... We don't have any Bio around here so that is not an option, but I appreciate the suggestion. There is not an extra copper in #6, as I made a "special" piece of wire to pull those out (Some of mine didn't stick to the injector when the injectors were pulled) Mike... Not a bad idea there... Although this is the second set of washers from DAP and they are the same thickness as my first set of injectors from them. I don't think I have the stock ones to compare to either... Could that cause the slight miss though? I wouldn't think a couple millimeters would cause spray to go outside the bowl of the piston. Another injection pump is not an option. Too much money and I was told it tested out perfect. Tom - The valves have been adjusted a couple of times through all of this. No irregularities found there. Rancherman - I will be testing that as soon as I get the pump put back in. I'm hoping it shows up tomorrow!

First question... How old is the Air Dog? If it is recent I would have to say the O ring that keeps fuel out of the pump motor may have bit the dust. As for air I guess it is a possibility, but the only way to tell would be a piece of clear line after the lift pump. I have gelled 3 or 4 times in the last 2 years and your problem does not sound like gelling. If it was the problem would have happened with the cold snap. The bad fuel sounds fairly likely because of the timing you are talking about. Have you checked the filters to see if they are plugged? (I would replace them just for the heck of it) I personally would pull the bed or drop the tank to take a look inside and check the quality of the diesel. Hopefully you figure it out!

Good thought, but I have a scangauge and the rpm meter on it does not bounce around or drop to zero. I will go through pushrods and rockers tomorrow.

This won't answer your question, but do you think you could build a new mount for the pump? One similar to the fass where it is tucked up and mounts to the bed? -15 here and haven't had my brother's CR with the fass get yet

Nope... I've been through many full tanks of fuel and at least 2 or 3 filters. Everything has been spotless. Thank you for the suggestion though

We need to hire some kid to ride a bike between us I don't think a slight difference between valve movement would cause the engine to miss though. And if it was an intake it would definitely cause some smoking.

Rancherman I will put a clear line on it when I get the pump back to see if there is air in the fuel. Ed - When I have the pump back I will have someone turn the engine over slowly and I will watch each rocker to see how far the valve is pushed down. Keep the ideas coming guys I really appreciate it

Spoke with Industrial Injection this morning and the pump tested out perfect. Not sure where to go now??

I stand corrected! Good info to know. I am calling Industrial Injection tomorrow to see what the heck is going on. I will report back when I have any news

Thanks for the suggestion! I planned on waiting till I get the pump back, although I don't think the timing gear can slip a tooth while it is inside the timing cover.... I can't remember where I read that may have been on Blue Chip's instruction page.

Sorry for the late response.... I just got back from Jamaica. I have not checked the travel of each set of valves per say, but I have adjusted the valve lash a couple of times. I guess I could have a buddy turn the engine over slowly and I could measure how far down each set of valves travels. I could then rule out the cam, tappets, and push rods. My injection pump is currently sitting at Industrial Injection, and hopefully I will know the health of the pump on Friday.

I've already gelled once this year It was after I got my truck back from paint and it was full of summer fuel... 10 below zero and it gelled. I didn't even think about adding anything because I was just happy to have it back after 10 weeks in the paint booth

I have wheels off of a 2012......

Make sure you get the pop pressures set if you go with just nozzles!

From ARP's instructions NO but they really should! Check out the link I posted. That is exactly what you are talking about. I think this month there were 2 or 3 over on CF. The instructions don't say to do it, and I know "ARP knows best it's their product" gets thrown around, but the work hardening rancherman is talking about is 100% true. The bolt WILL stretch after the first install... So either you re-torque them after some heat cycles or you can do as suggested by Glacier's instructions. Oh and tighten those puppies down to 135

There always is! I only did it this way because of the horror stories about putting them in then blowing out the gaskets. To each his own I guess, but because it worked so well this time I will be doing the same thing when I install studs.

ED and I spoke about this today. I "May" be able to get my pump warranted, but I'm not holding my breath. So I will not take anything apart on it. ED and I also spoke about the "2 stroke gum up" that MFWI decided to start lying about... Not sure if I will have those problems with Industrial Injection or not. ED thinks I should be okay, but I'm getting skeptical of everyone now. I'm at 1/4 of a tank so I might run it really low and fill it up without 2 stroke. This would be her first tank without any since this VP went on.....